What I Learned:
Certainly one of the most fascinating vineyard areas in Baden’s Ortenau wine district, the area around Kappelrodeck and Waldulm stands out as topographically impressive for growing grapes in a never-to-be-forgotten mixture of hill and dale.
Slopes are steep. Hills cluster close together. The profile of the hills resembles a grape cluster lying on the ground: round mounds intersected by narrow dales. This topography is ideal as far as the vines’ exposition to the sun goes. Being steep, rainwater drains well away from the vines. Additionally, the area lies in a valley sheltered by higher ridgelines to the north, south, and east. As a result, even though this area of Germany has its share of foggy or overcast, even rainy, days, when the sun shines, each grape stands a good chance of getting some decent exposure to its warming and ripening rays.
The growth areas, Pfarrberg in Waldulm, and Hex vom Dasenstein (Witch from Dasenstein – see the explanation here) in Kappelrodeck, both have granitic soils, a condition that is only found primarily in the southern Ortenau wine region. Granitic soils can favorably impact the vines in rainy area or rainy season because these soils have good drainage.
The star grape varietal of this area is Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir). Pinot Noir has a thousand-year history in this region. Riesling is the dominant white grape varietal. In the Ortenau, Riesling wine is also often identified locally as Klingelberger, named after the plantings in the eponymous vineyard in nearby Durbach.
The wine sales in this area are dominated by two firms: Kappelrodeck’s Hex vom Dasenstein Winzergenossenschaft, and the Waldulmer Winzergenossschaft, in Waldulm, a conjoined village known as the “Red Wine Village”.
What I Tasted:
2015 Spaetburgunder, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Hex vom Dasenstein Winzergenossenschaft (Kappelrodeck): A dry rose wine with medium plus cranberry color; slight cherry and spice nose, with cherry, vanilla, and floral flavors; medium tannins, with a short but prominent floral finish.
2015 Spaetburgunder Rose, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Hex vom Dasenstein Winzergenossenschaft: A dry rose wine with light cranberry color; a fruity nose, with raspberry, cherry and mineral flavors, mild tannins with a slightly tart finish.
2012 Spaetburgunder, Waldulmer Pfarrberg, Kabinett, Trocken, Waldulmer Winzergenossschaft (Kappelrodeck-Waldulm): A dry red wine with medium red color, with a combination of smoke, oak, minerality and earthiness, with a hint of berries on the nose and on the palate; a smooth finish with balanced tannins.
2012 Spaetburgunder, QbA, trocken, Waldulmer Winzergenossschaft: A dry red wine with medium dark red color, a balanced combination of smoke, oak and earthiness, with a hint of berries; smooth tannins.
2012 Grauburgunder, Kabinett, Trocken, Hex vom Dasenstein: A dry white wine with light gold color; fruity nose, with fruit and floral flavors; medium acidity and a medium mouthfeel.
2012 Grauburgunder, Kabinett, trocken, Hex vom Dasenstein: A dry white wine with light gold color; on the nose and palate white stone fruits with floral notes, medium mouthfeel and medium acidity.
2012 Riesling, Kabinett, trocken, Waldulmer Winzergenossschaft: A dry white wine with light gold color; on the nose and palate slight floral and vanilla notes; medium body and acidity.