What I Learned

Riesling grows in every German wine region, and in some, a lot more than others. In the Baden wine region, Riesling is the single most cultivated white varietal. The Ortenau, in particular, grows more Riesling proportionally, than any other wine area within the Baden wine region.

Riesling has a long and interesting history here. Traditionally, the name Klingelberger applies to Riesling wine from the Ortenau. In a nod to this tradition, you can still find Riesling wine sold under this label, (much as you can find Pinot Noir grown in Affental, bottled under the name Affentaler). Another tradition involves the use of the uniquely shaped flat Bocksbeutel as the bottle of choice. The Bocksbeutel is traditionally associated with the Franken/Franconia wine region, but this area of the Ortenau adopted its use in the 1700s, when a nobleman from Franconia took up residence here, and bottled his wines using the Bocksbeutel. After a lengthy legal suit in the 1970s over Franconia’s exclusive right to use the Bocksbeutel, the court upheld the Ortenau tradition, ruling that outside Franconia, only the Baden areas around Neuweier, Steinbach and Varnhalt could bottle their wine that way.

Riesling can be a challenge to grow in Germany’s rather rainy weather, resulting in the need to plant the vines on steep slopes, to obtain good drainage. But when successful, the resulting wine is worth the hard work and risk. The end product has interesting aromas, unique flavors, and often a racy acidity. The local wine cooperative, the Affentaler Winzer winery, offers several different styles of Riesling wines.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Riesling, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Affentaler Winzer (Eisental-Buhl): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; green apple and citrus nose with a hint of spice, and green apple, lemon and hints of vanilla; medium plus acidity, with a very tart finish.

2017 Monkey Mountain, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Affentaler Winzer (Eisental-Buhl): A dry white wine cuvee (Riesling, Weissburgunder, Sauvignon Blanc) with gold color; Floral, mineral, spice, citrus and vanilla nose; flavors of the same, with a hint of green gooseberry, very tart finish, with high minus acidity.

2016 Sekt, Affentaler Riesling, Extra Trocken, Sekt b.A., Affentaler Winzer (Eisental-Buhl): A very dry sparkling Riesling wine, with fine perlage and medium yellow gold color; Spice and slight turpentine nose, with floral, spicy and slight white fruits flavors; smooth finish with low acidity.