What I Learned

The Ortenau is a district in Germany’s Baden wine region. This district lies on an undulating landscape, in bucolic countryside, punctuated by picturesque wine villages. Durbach is one of these villages, renowned for its excellent vineyards, and justly famed for the quality of its wines. Ridgelines here are less lines, than semi-circles, creating several small natural bowls with steep sides. Most of the growths have ideal exposure to the sun. Additionally, these bowls protect the grape-bearing slopes from too much wind. The climate here is exceptionally mild and sunny in summer. In short, this is one of the best areas for growing grapes in Baden.

There are several vineyards within Durbach that are well-known: the Kochberg, the Oelberg, Plauelrain and Steinberg.  The Oelberg, with its very steep slopes, marks the southern entry into the town. The Plauelrain, a slope named after a wood device, the “Blaugel”, that was used to process hemp fibers. The Steinberg is particularly favored by nature, with geology that helps store the sun’s heat, being primarily granite, with very steep slopes, and southern exposure for the vines.

Riesling, known locally as Klingelberger, is one of the varietals grown extensively here. Another varietal, Traminer, also has a local name: Clevner. The red varietals are many, but Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) is one of the most important here.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Riesling, Steinrassel, VDP Erste Lage Plauelrain, Qualitaetswein, Trocken; Weingut Laible (Durbach): A dry white wine with light gold color; citrus and green apple nose; green apple and honey flavors; medium plus acidity.

2015 Riesling, An der Kapelle, VDP Erste Lage Plauelrain, Qualitaetswein, Trocken; Weingut Laible (Durbach): A dry white wine with light gold color; mineral nose; red apple and honey flavors; medium acidity, with a long finish.

2015 Riesling, Am Buehl, VDP Grosse Lage; Qualitaetswein, Trocken; Weingut Laible (Durbach): A dry white wine with light gold color; apple nose; savory spice and red apple flavors; medium acidity.

2014 Klingelberger, Durbacher Bienengarten, Kabinett, Trocken, Deutscher Praedikatswein, Weingut Andreas Mannle (Durbach): A dry white (Riesling) wine with med gold color; a floral and white stone fruit nose, with rich, ripe peach and slight floral flavors, with a hint of turpentine; mild acidity and a smooth long finish.

2014 Sauvignon Blanc, Durbacher Schlossberg, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Markgraf von Baden (Durbach): A dry white wine with light gold color; a green pepper nose, with green pepper and fruity, green berry flavor; medium acidity.

2014 Spaetburgunder, Kochberg Weissherbst, Qualitaetswein, Durbacher Winzergenossenschaft, (Durbach): A semi-dry red wine, with dark salmon color; a sharp, citrus and red berry nose, with floral, strawberry, raspberry and blackberry flavors; very mild tannins.

2013 Riesling, Durbacher Schloss Grohl, Kabinett, Trocken, Graeflich Wolff Metternich’sches Weingut (Durbach): A dry white wine with very light gold color citrus and mineral nose, flavors of grapefruit slight floral notes, nice long finish with very mild acidity.

2013 Cuvee Froh Natur, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Danner (Durbach): A dry white wine cuvee (Mueller Thurgau, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay), with light gold color; a fruity and herbaceous nose, with floral and mineral notes; mildly acidic and somewhat prickly on the tongue; very refreshing.