Wine Notes: Les Riceys Champagne

 

What I Learned:

Champagne can only come from Champagne, the wine region, about 90 miles from Paris. In spite of its proximity to “gay Paris,” champagne did not enjoy great fame until fairly recently. Although grapes were cultivated in the region as early as Roman times, the often cold, foggy climate worked to ensure that grape ripening was not consistent from year to year. Hence the wine was not always good, or available.

At the turn of the 20th century, what constituted the champagne producing area of Champagne was a contentious question. And in 1911, it provoked massive riots. At issue was the right of the wine-makers of the southern Champagne region, in the department of Aube, to use the champagne appellation for the sparkling wines made from their grapes. It wasn’t until 1927, that this district, known as the Cote des Bars, finally gained Champagne appellation status.

But what is especially interesting about the area around the village of Les Riceys, is that in addition to the Champagne Appellation, the village has two others, making it the only area to have three appellations in it.

The Rose des Riceys Appellation, granted in 1947, is the most well-known (allegedly gaining its fame with Louis XIV’s first ( apparently favorable) tasting). It is a rose wine made solely from Pinot Noir grapes. Traditionally fermented in wood, now vintners may choose to ferment it stainless steel instead. It is difficult to find outside of France.

The third and final appellation of this village is the Coteaux Champenois. This appellation includes red, white and rose wines that are not sparkling wines, and are represented by Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay still wines. Not many of these wines come from Les Riceys for purely economic reasons. (Champagne and Rose des Riceys are more profitable wines to produce.)

 

What I Tasted (in Les Riceys):

2017 Rose des Riceys, Appellation Rose des Riceys Controlee, Champagne Joffrey: A dry rose wine with medium cranberry red color; red fruits and tobacco nose, with red fruits and mineral flavors; Medium plus tannins.

2015 Rouge Coteaux Champenois, Appellation Coteaux Champenois Controlee, Jean Jacques Lamoureux (Les Riceys): A dry red wine with medium purple red color; a grassy and slightly red fruits nose, with red fruits and slight floral flavors; Medium plus tannins.

2012 Champagne Brut, Prestige L’Apotheose, Champagne Joffrey: A dry white sparkling wine with fine, lively perlage and medium minus gold color; a bready and eucalyptus nose, with green apple and slight citrus flavors, as well as a hint of spice; Medium acidity.

2011 Champagne Brut, Cuvee Millesime Elixir, Champagne Joffrey: A dry white sparkling wine (Chardonnay – 100%), with fine, lively perlage and pale gold color; a yeast and mineral nose, with green apple and green grape flavors; Medium plus acidity.

2011 Champagne Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Alexandrine, Champagne Jean Jacques Lamoureux: A dry white sparkling wine (100% Chardonnay) with fine, lively perlage, and medium plus straw gold color; a yeast and green apple nose, with bready, spicy, and apple flavors, with a hint of honey; medium plus acidity.