What I Learned
Italy is famous for its for wines, especially powerful, refined reds such as Tuscany’s Brunello, Valpolicella’s Amarones, and Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The Valtellina region of Lombardy, Italy, also produces well-regarded, powerfully flavorful, red wines, and made from the same varietal that produces Barolo and Barbaresco. It also produces wine in a process similar to Valpolicella’s Amarones. Lovers of such powerful reds will find Valtellina’s DOCG red wines delicious and a good value for the money.
In Valtellina, the red grape varietal called Chiavennasca, or ciuinasca in dialect, is well-known as Nebbiolo in the Piedmont. As in the Piedmont, the Chiavennasca/Nebbiolo plays an almost exclusive role in producing all the Denominazione di Origine Controllata Garantita (DOCG) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) wines of the area.
The DOCG of Valtellina, the Valtellina Superiore DOCG wines, must contain 90% Chiavennasca, and must age for at least 24 months, and come from one of the five recognized zones of the region. Even a bit lower on the quality scale, the Rosso di Valtellina, a DOC wine, also must contain at least 90% Chiavennasca, but these grapes come from zones outside the recognized five. Comparing the expressions of Chiavennasca from the different zones, the different production methods and with Piedmontese Nebbiolo wines, is a real treat for Chiavennasca/Nebbiolo fans.
At the top of the quality scale is Sforzato di Valtellina (known as Sfursat di Valtellina in dialect), which like the more famous Valpolicella Amarone, comes from grapes that after harvest, dry in open air for a minimum of 110 days before being pressed. The Sfursat must contain at least 90% Chiavennasca and age for at least 20 months in wood and bottle.
While the primary varietal planted here is the Chiavennasca, on a much smaller scale, you will also find Rossola, Fortana, and small amounts of a couple of international varietals such as Pinot Noir and Merlot. White varietals, much rarer, fall under an IGT – indicazione geografica tipica. This designation is given to non-traditional, almost experimental wines, such as a white wine in this red production zone. Valtellina’s only IGT is IGT Alpi Retiche, formerly known as IGT Retiche di Sondrio. Under this designation, in addition to red wines, wine drinkers will find rose wines, and white wines made from Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc.
What I tasted:
Reds (all, or 90 percent, from Chiavennasca grapes)
2011 Inferno, Valtellina Superiore Riserva DOCG, Vini Balgera (Chiuro): A very dry red wine with deep garnet color; tobacco and dried cherries nose, with stewed prune, tobacco, and slight leather flavors; high minus, but smooth, tannins
2010 Valgella, Valtellina Superiore Riserva DOCG, Vitivinicola Marchetti Maria Luisa (Teglio): A dry red wine with a rich dark red color. Powerful flavors of red berry flavors with floral and floral honey notes. Very interesting, even though tasted when it was only four years old.
2009 Inferno Riserva, DOCG, Casa Vinicola Pietro Nera (Chiuro): A medium low dry red wine with medium red color; some hint of cherry and red fruits; with a silky mouthfeel, with medium high plus, tannins.
2009 Valgella, Valtellina Superiore DOCG, Casa Vinicola Fratelli Bettini (San Giacomo di Teglio): A very dry red wine with deep red color, red berry, spice, and some smoky flavors, with a hint of floral honey; thinner mouthfeel than expected, with smooth tannins.
2009 Valgella, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, Vigna la Cornella, Fratelli Bettini: A dry red wine with garnet red color; lightly smoky, lightly toasted flavors with flavors of cherry and other red berries, smooth and medium mouthfeel with medium tannins.
2008 Mazer, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, Nino Negri (Chiuro): A dry red wine with a light ruby color, smoke with a hint of vanilla, red berry and cherry flavors; a medium mouthfeel with medium tannins.
2008 Grumello, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, Casa Vinicola Aldo Rainoldi, (Chiuro): A dry red wine with dark red color, tastes of prunes, spices and a bit of oak, with an interesting hint of smokiness; medium tannins.
2007 Grumello, Valtellina Superiore DOCG, Nino Negri: A dry red wine with medium ruby red color; a rich taste, bursting with flavors of berries, especially dried cherries, a bit floral, with touch of smokiness and hints of oak; reminiscent of a port; powerful but balanced tannins and acidity with a medium long finish.
2007 Sforzato di Valtellina, DOCG, Casa Vinicola Pietro Nera: A dry red wine with medium red color; strong cherry flavors with spice and smoke flavors, rich mouthfeel with medium high tannins; very well-balanced overall.
2006 Inferno Riserva, Valtellina Superiore DOCG, Vini Balgera: A very dry red wine with dark red color, with smoky, slightly oaky notes, dried red fruits flavors; strong tannins.
Whites:
2011 La Novella, Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio Bianco IGT, Casa Vinicola Pietro Nera (Chiuro): A dry white wine with pale gold color, made from the Nebbiolo (vinified white), Chardonnay and Manzoni varietals; interesting, subtle green apple and pear flavors; high minus acidity.
2011 Torre della Sirena, Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio Bianco IGT, 2011, Conti Sertoli Salis (Tirano): A dry white wine made from the Rossola and Pignola grapes with a pronounced yellow color; hints of apricots and spice; a medium body, with medium acidity and a smooth finish. Very interesting.