What I Learned
Wines from France’s southern Rhone Valley are quite popular. However, within that geographic area, and distinct from the Rhone appellation, there are distinct appellations singled out for their exceptional quality. Gigondas wines merit both their own appellation and the praise they evoke. Powerful and distinctive, they have a unique taste due in large part to the unique geology of the area.
Eons ago Gigondas was under a shallow sea. Over time, the hard remains of marine organisms settled at the bottom to form limestone. Later, fault lines in the area, subjected to intense pressure, forced the floor of this ancient seabed to rise up, almost completely vertically, to form what we see today: a near-white wall of rock, pierced by holes created from erosion, creating what looks like lace (hence the origin of the name the “Dentelles”).
This unique geology has a big impact on the grapes grown for the appellation wines: Grenache Noir, Syrah and Mourvedre. Such a sudden upthrust of the landscape makes the elevation of the vines of a particular parcel an important factor, as well as impacting the soil type (limestone on limestone, or limestone overlaid by other sediment, often red clay).
Gigondas’ appellation wines are exclusively red (with some rose), and by regulation, a blended red wine. Appellation Gigondas Controlee red wines must contain at most 80 percent Grenache Noir, and at least 15 percent Mourvedre and/or Syrah. Up to 10 percent of the balance may be made up of other red grapes – except no Carignan. (Cinsault, while only constituting about one percent of the appellation’s plantings, is often the most likely addition.) The resulting wine is dark, powerful and big, even if total acreage under vine is rather small, about 1230 hectares/3000 acres.
What I Tasted
2014 Gigondas, Appellation Gigondas Controlee, Domaine de l’Ourea (Vacqueyras): A dry red wine (Grenache, Syrah) with dark purple red color; nose of tobacco and smoke, and prune and spicy flavors, Medium tannins.
2014 Gigondas Rose, Romane Machotte, Appellation Gigondas Protegee, Pierre Amadieu (Gigondas): An off-dry Rose blend (Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault), with a salmon pink color; a red berry fruits nose; and flavors of same, with some floral notes.
2013 Gigondas, Appellation Gigondas Controlee, Notre Dame des Pallieres (Gigondas): A dry red wine with bright garnet color; Nose of red plum and steel, same flavors; Medium tannins.
2013 Gigondas, Appellation Gigondas Controlee, Domaine La Garrigue, Bernard et Fils (Vacqueyras): A dry red wine with a dark, dark red color; sweet herbs and cherry nose; and cherry and floral flavors; Mild tannins and a nice long finish.
2013 Gigondas, Appellation Gigondas Controlee, Domaine Raspail-Ay (Gigondas): A dry red wine with dark, dark red color; a ripe cherry and red fruits nose, and spice and cherry flavors; Smooth with mild tannins.
2011 Gigondas, Appellation Gigondas Controlee, Chateau Raspail (Gigondas): A dry red wine cuvee (60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre) with a dark ruby color; full nose of red fruits and sweet spice, rich blackberry and red berry flavors, with some floral notes; A medium bodied wine with mild tannins.
2010 Gigondas, Grand Vin Eloquence, Appellation Gigondas Protegee, Vignerons de Caractere (Vacqueyras): A dry red wine with dark red color; a red berry nose, and smoke, red berry fruits and caramel flavors; Medium tannins.