What I Learned

There isn’t a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) named Bergamo, in honor of one of northern Italy’s large cities, rather the wines produced locally in and around the city are known as the Valcalepio Denomination. The Valcalepio DOC wines are produced from grapes grown mostly north of Bergamo, east of the Adda River (coming out of Lake Como), to west from the Oglio River (coming from Lake Iseo). (This last incidentally, is also the boundary which meets up with the Franciacorta DOC.) This denomination only has about 800 hectares of land under vine. The wines from these vineyards only gained appellation status in 1976, so in addition to being relatively small, this appellation is also relatively new.

The appellation includes white, red, red reserve and Moscato Passito wines. Except for the Moscato wine, the grapes used in this denomination are what may be called “international.” They are Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Blanc for the white wines. Vintners may produce the red wines from Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

This denomination produces blended wines, except for the Moscato Passito (a sweet wine). Consequently, the wines from different producers will vary tremendously. Each winemaker can select (within a fairly broad range) what percentage of one grape to mix with another, in addition to all the other factors, this will result in vastly different flavor profiles from wine to wine. (Endless variety, endless tasting opportunities to explore!)

That said, I found most of these wines, either red or white, to have at least medium body and good flavors, fairly smooth tannins (for reds), and medium acidity (for whites). Overall, the reds and whites work well with food, and are found on tables locally as the daily wine of choice.

 

What I Tasted

2018 Valcalepio Bianco, Valcalepio Bianco Denominazione di Origine Controllata, Cantina Bergamasca (San Paolo di Argon): A dry white wine cuvee (Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay) with medium yellow gold color; a mineral and floral nose, with floral and slight pear flavors; medium acidity.

2016, Valcalepio Rosso, DOC, Cantina Bergamasca: Medium plus garnet red; with tobacco and green wood nose, and oak, tobacco and dark cherry flavors with a hint of spice; smooth, medium tannins.

2015, Bruno Rosso, Valcalepio Rosso Denominazione di Origine Controllata,  Azienda Vit. La Collina (Grumello): A dry red wine cuvee (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon): A dry red wine with medium plus ruby red color; a strong dark cherry and green wood nose, with cherry, vanilla and spice flavors, with hints of caramel and chocolate; medium plus tannins.

2014, Brut Chardonnay, Il 33, Bianco di Bianco, Pas Dose, Colletto: A dry white sparkling wine with fine, lively perlage, and medium plus lemon-yellow color; brioche, floral and spice nose, with flora, butter and spice flavors; medium acidity.