Wine Notes: Baden’s Kaiserstuhl

 

What I Learned

The Kaiserstuhl is a wine district within the German wine region of Baden. Baden has a large number of wine districts, and with almost 4300 hectares (over 10,500 acres), it is the largest of all nine wine districts in Baden.

This district is one of the warmest sites in Germany, with some of the highest average temperatures and the highest average hours of sunshine per year. In this district, the vines are planted mostly in terraces, mostly on south facing slopes of the Kaiserstuhl, maximizing exposure to the sun in this already sun-drenched (relatively speaking) district. Another interesting aspect of this district is its base. It is volcanic, as this whole area was once one giant volcano. A layer of loess lies on top of the remnants of the old volcanic lava, which seems to retain heat to an amazing degree. The cuts in the terraces reveal incredible depths of the light-colored loess layer.

Within this district there are a whopping 42 named vineyard areas. Among them are a few in Ihringen. These are the Fohrenberg, the Winklerberg and Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten vineyards.

The Blankenhornsberg Doktorgarten is among the top 100 vine-growing sites in Germany. It is sheltered, south-facing, and tended with extreme care. It was named in 1971 after Professor Adolf Blankenhorn, from the neighboring Markgraeflerland district, as he had been an honorary president of the German Wine Producers Association (Deutsche Weinbauverein). The Doktorgarten is classified as a Grosse Lage in the VDP classification system, (equivalent to Grands Crus in France). The Winklerberg’ s westernmost and southernmost sectors, namely the Winklerberg Vorderer (and Hinterer), the Wanne, and the Winklerfeld, are also known as Grosse Lage. The center sector, merely “Winklerberg”, is an Erste Lage, just one step lower on the VDP scale of quality vineyards. The Fohrenberg, another Grosse Lage, lies just next to the Winklerberg sector of vineyards. Several other sites are named along a local wine-trail in beautifully handcrafted metal letters on stone.

The Pinot family, Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc), Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) and Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) grapes, particularly excels in this district, and especially around Ihringen. Today, these three varietals constitute about 50% of the district’s production. Pinot Noir alone constitutes about 36.5 %. Other varietals represented in significant percentages are: Mueller-Thurgau, Silvaner, and Chardonnay.

 

What I Tasted

2018 Spaetburgunder Rose, Sonett, Q.b.A, Trocken, Weinhaus Heger, (Ihringen): A dry rose wine with medium pink color; mineral nose, with light fruity flavors; tannins surprisingly at a high minus on my informal scale.

2016 Silvaner, Ihringer Winklerberg, Trocken, QbA, Winzergenossenschaft Ihringen: A dry white wine with medium gold color; floral and fruity nose, with white fruits (pear and red apple), vanilla and spicy flavors; mild acidity.

2016 Grauburgunder, Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten (Ihringen), VDP Grosse Lage, Trocken, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color, mineral and sweet floral nose, with white stone fruit, vanilla and floral flavors; medium plus acidity, but a very smooth finish with lingering complex flavors TDA.

2015 Weissburgunder, (Pinot Blanc), Freiburger Schlossberg, Kammer, VDP Erste Lage, Deutsche Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weingut Stigler (Ihringen/Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium gold color; slight gooseberry and chalk nose, with gooseberry, vanilla, flavors; high minus acidity.

2015 Weissburgunder, Vitus, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Dr. Heger: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of sandalwood, toasted nuts, spice and vanilla, with toasted nuts, vanilla, spice, and slight tropical fruits flavors; medium minus acidity with a smooth finish.

2014 Grauer Burgunder, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Schandelmeier (Ihringen): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a grassy nose, with herbal and slight quince flavors, high acidity.

2014 Weisser Burgunder, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Schandelmeier (Ihringen): A dry white wine with light gold color; a fruity note with a hint of spice, flavors of the same; medium plus acidity.

Sekt, Rose, Extra Brut, Weingut Heger (Ihringen): A dry rose (Spaetburgunder 100%) sparkling wine, with fine, lively bubbles, and light gold color with a tint of red; slightly spicy and green-grassy nose, with honey and red berry flavors; very smooth finish.