What I Learned
Alsace’s Haut-Rhin (upper Rhine) area is particularly favored with great terroirs. Here, as elsewhere in Alsace, the harvests are primarily white varietals. The soil here is minerally, and complex, resulting in crisp, refreshing and uniquely flavored white wines. The six main white varietals grown in Alsace are Riesling, Silvaner, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. The only red varietal is Pinot Noir.
While the Rouge d’Ottrott is perhaps the most well-known red wine production town in Alsace, the Pinot Noir of Turckheim has an unusual pedigree. Rising behind Turckheim is a large mount, known as Le Brand. In German, Brand means fire. According to legend, a ferocious dragon lived on the hill. When he was finally vanquished, his blood flowed down the hill, fertilizing the soils. One domaine, Francois Bauer, has named a Pinot Noir “Le Sang du Dragon” (Blood of the Dragon), a clever and witty way to commemorate the legend!
Today that area covers the Grand Cru Brand. It faces primarily south, with good exposure to the sun. It lies atop granite, with granitic soils, with some mica. Turckheim’s best wines come from this cru. Riesling is the most grown varietal (around 40%), Gewurztraminer consists of about 31% of the harvest, followed by Pinot Gris. Pinot Noir also does well here, but as a red wine, it is not eligible for Grand Cru Brand status.
One more bit of folklore also has it that: “Zu Tann in Rangen, zu Gewiller in der Wannen, zur Turckheim im Brant, waechst der beste Wein im Land”. (From the Rangen in Thann, to the Wanne (nowadays the Grand Cru Kessler) of Guebwiller, to the Brand in Turckheim, grow the best wines in the land!) Certainly, there is no lack of good wine, or good stories, in Turckheim.
What I Tasted
2015 Pinot Noir, Sang Du Dragon “Monopole”, Appellation Alsace Controlee, Francois Baur (Turckheim): A dry red wine with dark garnet color; spice and oak nose with a whiff of dried raspberry, with oak, spice (especially vanilla) and red cherry flavors, high tannins. A complex and powerful Pinot Noir for Alsace to keep for at least 5 years.
2015 Riesling, Clos de la Treille, Grand Cru Brand, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Francois Baur: A dry white wine with medium gold color; mineral, green apple nose, with spicy vanilla, peach, and citrus flavors; high acidity.
2015 Riesling, Appellation Alsace Controlee, Cave de Turckheim: A dry white wine with medium gold color; spicy and fruity nose, mustard, floral and fruity (citrus and green apple) flavors, high acidity.
2015 Riesling, Grand Cru Florimont, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Justin Boxler (Niedermorschwihr): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color; rich floral nose with spice and fruit; flavors of the same; medium acidity, with a very smooth, velvety, long finish.
2014 Pinot Gris, Saint Wendelin, Appellation Alsace Controlee, Laurent et Fils (Niedermorschwir): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a fruity and mineral nose, pepper spice and pineapple flavors with slight floral notes; medium plus acidity.
2011 Gewuerztraminer, Grand Cru Brand, Appellation Alsace Controlee; Alphonse Meyer et Fils: A dry white wine, with medium gold color; a slightly resinous nose with a hint of clove spice; spice, floral and toasted almond flavors; very smooth with a slight pear finish, with medium acidity.
Mayerling Rose, Cremant d’Alsace, Cave de Turckheim: A dry rose (Pinot Noir) sparkling wine with fine bubbles; slight berry nose, with flavors hinting of berries and a bit of smoke. Smooth and well-balanced overall.