What I Learned
Alsace’s Haut-Rhin (Upper Rhine) area’s interesting geological history resulted in some great terroirs. It was initially born of volcanic activity. Once spent, the volcanic mountains collapsed on themselves, and an ancient sea covered the area. Then two mountain chains arose (the Vosges in France, and the Black Forest range in Germany), and the ancient Rhine river poured through the resulting valley. As the river receded to its current banks, it exposed the slopes of the Vosges, on which the Alsatian vineyards currently lie. The soil here is incredibly complex, thanks to this geological history, and it results in minerally, and complex wines.
The six main white varietals grown in Alsace are Riesling, Sylvaner, Muscat, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. The only red varietal is Pinot Noir. The crisp, refreshing and uniquely flavored white wines from these varietals in this region, and from the broad area west of Colmar in particular, are unforgettable.
The delicious sparkling wines produced here are called “Cremant.” They are great blends of the white varietals grown in the region. Occasionally, Pinot Noir will be used in the blends, and to produce a Rose. Alsatian cremants, produced using the Champagne method, tend to be dry, light and refreshing. The best of these wines will bear the Appellation Cremant d’Alsace Controlee labels. The Wolfberger Winery just outside Colmar produces much Cremant in a typically delicious Alsatian style.
Alsatian wine classifications are similar to that of Burgundy with Grands Crus at the top of the quality spectrum, then Premier Cru, and AOC for just about everything else within specific areas. Eguisheim has two Grands Crus within its territory. One, roughly to the south of town, called the Eichberg, has long enjoyed a great reputation for quality wines. The other, the Pfersigberg, is more to the west of town. Its Gewuerztraminer wines are especially prized.
What I Tasted
Cremant Brut, Appellation Cremant d’Alsace Controlee, Wolfberger: a dry sparkling wine composed of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Riesling, with fine, spiraling bubbles, and with a light gold color; hints of vanilla, floral and stone fruits, very well-balanced, and very mild acidity
Cremant Brut, Cuvee Prestige St. Leon IX, Appellation Cremant d’Alsace Controlee, Wolfberger: a dry white sparkling wine composed of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Riesling, with medium gold color and fine bubbles; floral and bready notes; very mild acidity.
Cremant Rose Brut, Appellation Cremant d’Alsace Controlee, Wolfberger: a dry rose sparkling wine, fine, swirling bubbles, salmon color; very smooth, with slight flavors of red berry fruits, with notes of wood and toast, and hints of slight tannins.
2012 Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Eichberg, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Gruss: a dry white wine with a dark light gold color; a nose with some vanilla and spice; notes of citrus, peach, and toast; medium acidity, well-balanced overall.
2012 Gewuerztraminer, Alsace Grand Cru Eichberg, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Gruss: a dry white wine with a medium to dark medium gold color; a floral nose, with flavors of rose, spice, honey and smoke, and a hint of lychee; very low acidity and well-balanced overall.