Wine Notes: Aligoté

 

What I Learned

Bouzeron is famed for its Aligoté wine. In fact, the small village holds the distinction of having the only village AOC in France dedicated to the Aligoté varietal, Appellation Bouzeron Controlee. The Aligoté grape and its wines tended be overlooked in the past, but made a comeback. Nowadays, they are often promoted as aperitive wines as their taste tends to be light, fruity and crisp.

Aligoté is a hybrid of the red/black Pinot Noir and the Gouais Blanc grapes. First mentions of this grape appeared in the late 1700s. Because it does well in cold grape-growing regions, it has recently been planted in Washington State, Chile and some Eastern European nations. As a flavor profile, Aligoté wines often have citrus, green apple, and white floral notes. This also makes them ideal for one of region’s most favored aperitive wines, the sparkling Cremant de Bourgogne, on its own or blended with Chardonnay. (In this case, the resulting sparkling wine could fall under the Appellation Cremant de Bourgogne).

There are two appellations in Burgundy devoted to Aligoté. The Bouzeron village appellation was created in 1998, replacing the Bourgogne Aligoté Bouzeron appellation, and covers the areas of Bouzeron and Chassey le Camp. Area under vine is limited to about 50 hectares. The Bourgogne Aligoté regional appellation covers more territory (about 1700 hectares (4200 acres)) and is spread out across the Cote Chalonnaise. Wines in this appellation may contain up to 15 percent Chardonnay.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Aligoté, Appellation Bourgogne Aligoté Controlee, Pierre Chanau with Producteurs a Buxy (Buxy): A dry white wine with medium yellow gold color; perfumed nose, with citrus, floral and slight spice nose, flavors; medium acidity

2016 Aligoté, Les Trois, Appellation Bouzeron Controlee, Maison Chanzy (Bouzeron) Medium gold color with vanilla, mineral, and citrus nose, and oak, vanilla, brioche flavors, medium plus acidity, fairly smooth finish.

2016 Aligoté, Clos de la Fortune, Appellation Bouzeron Protegee, Maison Chanzy (Bouzeron): A dry Premier Cru white wine with light plus gold color; mineral nose, with mineral, as well as slight floral and citrus flavors; medium minus acidity. Not much personality, but smooth.

2014 Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut, Appellation Cremant de Bourgogne Controlee, Domaine Stephane Aladame (Montagny les Buxy): A dry white sparkling wine (60% Aligoté, 40% Chardonnay) with fine, lively bubbles, and medium minus straw gold color; yeasty nose, and green apple, toast and slight floral flavors; tart finish with medium plus acidity.