The sea, hiking and wines are three of my favorite things to experience. However, it is not always easy to find a place where waves meet the vines. It is rarer still to find well-marked and maintained trails in such spots. Serendipitiously though, it is possible to savor all three in Collioure.
A recent trip to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France led to the town of Collioure, a little gem of a town. Set on a beautiful bay, it is famous for its narrow, atmospheric streets in the old town, leading to one of its old forts. It is also famous for its wines. The vineyards surrounding the town produce wines both for the AOC Collioure and for the Banyuls AOC. Finally, it has some delightful trails through the hills and vineyards for hikers and mountain-bike riders to enjoy.
Ideally, a hike should cover a variety of landscapes and scenery, and this one did. Starting in the old town, by the little port and old castle, it headed toward the hills. Collioure lies just a few miles from the Spanish border, at the eastern end of the Pyrenees. The backs of the hills surrounding the town are covered in vines. In early September, as I climbed through the vineyards, the harvest was already beginning in some parcels.
The other vegetation was scrub-like, with Mediterranean herbs and flowers in abundance: wild rosemary, tufts of lavender here and there, live oak, and the occasional cypress, always a dramatic dark evergreen shaft in the often otherwise dusty colors of the Mediterranean. The quintessential tree of the Mediterranean, the olive, was also here, its silvery leaves glinting in the sunlight.
In essence, this trail led to a well-known pass. A couple of roads and a couple of trails met up there, and these were filled more with racing cyclists than cars. Once on top of the pass, the views of the mountains behind these modest foothills was impressive. Taking a trail to the left of the intersection, I met with the first of several mountain bikers, and mountain bike trail markings coming up from Collioure. This upper part of the trail is wide, and has a good surface, so it can easily accommodate both hikers and cyclists.
As the trail winds down between hills and ridgelines, enticing views of the sea begin to appear. There are two fortresses set on the hills above town. The upper one, Fort Dugommier, is closed as it is currently undergoing repair work. The other is Fort Saint Elme. It is open, and the short (but sometimes steep and rocky) walk from town, is popular with tourists.
One small group after another headed up as I was coming down. It is necessary to stop to allow others passage, from time to time, but that just provides more opportunity to photograph the idyllic vista of Collioure, its port, old town, and surrounding seascape. It is no wonder that artists like Matisse, Picasso and Derain, among others, came here for the scenery and light.
But wait, there‘s more! Once back in town, rather than leading directly to the start, the trail takes the coastal path. This wonderful bit of engineering leads along cliffs and beaches, where you will be tempted to soak your weary feet, or stop at the cliffside bar. With its comfortable and inviting seating as the waves break just a few feet away your seat, you could be tempted to spend your entire time there.
Passing under the royal fortress, the trail ultimately re-enters the old heart of the town. The trail passes or leads to plenty of choices for food and wine. From the fresh fish, to the great wines, to the amazingly scenic hike through its town and vineyards, Collioure was truly a place to savor.
