Two words to know if travelling to Vienna: Wien, the German name for the city, and Wein, the German word for wine. Although they look similar, a transposition of the vowels makes the two diphthongs sound very different, which imparts very different meanings – important to keep in mind when ordering some of Vienna’s delicious wines. Wine is everywhere in Vienna.

Vienna has significant vineyards within the city limits, easily accessible by public transportation. And where there are vineyards, there must be trails. Nussdorf, Neustift and Strebersdorf all fit the bill. But I chose Stammersdorf and the famous (at least among the Viennese) Stadtwanderweg 5, subtitled “The Bisamberg”, after a well-known wine growing area.

The trail begins in the heart of the village of Stammersdorf, at the last Tram 31 stop. Quickly leaving the modern area around the stop, it enters the realm of older buildings, most of which sported elements of decoration and coloring that invoked the Baroque period, quite in keeping with the Viennese tradition of elegant architecture, from any era.  Once past the old church, the trail meanders along a paving stone road. Along the way, it passes many old wine cellars, some apparently still in use, others in a completely abandoned state, but nonetheless photogenic for it. The trail then makes a quick and easy ascent to the edge of the vineyards of the Bisamberg.

 

The vineyards in this area tend to face south and west, toward the Danube, (although it was too hazy to see on that day). The vineyards here are well-known in the city for their Pinots: Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir.  In German, that is Weissburgunder, Grauburgunder and Spaetburgunder respectively. The vines sit in dark soil, on slopes that are not terribly steep. Approaching the top of the hill, on the right, are vines on the Falkenberg. This modest hill is a favorite destination spot because it has the well-known Magdalenahof tavern, about two-thirds of the way up the slope. Climbing a bit further, it has a great picnic and overlook spot. Indeed, it is one of the advertised highlights of the hike that Vienna is visible from the Falkenberg, weather permitting, of course.

 

Continuing even higher, you come to the top of the hill, crowned by a forest. The Stadtwanderweg 5 continues just inside the treeline, passing fields and more vineyards, before beginning the descent back to the city. Once at Hagenbrunnerstrasse, a small stretch of rather narrow, unimproved path leads back to a bridge over a creek, and from there to civilization. The trail comes to a close on Stammersdorferstrasse, a lovely street lined with a dozen or so wine taverns. Known as Heuriger, they are a delightful custom, dating back centuries, popular with locals (and savvy tourists). And on such a good hiking day, they were filled with hikers and non-hikers alike, all enjoying the “Wein” from “Wien.”