Some places are simply charming, and Visan is one of them. The small village is a visual gem, set on a low hill. Countryside surrounds it. It has delicious Cotes du Rhone Villages wines, to include the special Cuvee du Marot, and local olives to enjoy with them. Friendly people and great opportunities for hiking round out my paeans of praise.
The circuit hike I chose is one that is advertised online as the Vignes de l’Enclave des Papes (Vines of the Enclave of the Popes), but known locally as Circuit 12, or Circuit Est (East Circuit). The very helpful woman at the Syndicat d’Initiative oriented me to the maps they provide there, and off I went.
As the name implies, it heads east, through the well-preserved village center, out the old gate known as Porte Saint Martin (next to the Place de la Coconniere), and follows the old buildings ringing the historic center to the southeastern gate, the Porte du Puy Barret. From there, it was into the vineyards surrounding the village. But it wasn’t only vineyards. One of the great features about this trail is that is also passes by olive tree groves, and through forested areas, making for a nice variety of Provencal terrain to experience.
After cresting the first little hill, I had a chance to see Mount Ventoux, a beloved landmark of people from the Vaucluse. Once atop the second hill, I could see down the sloping vineyards to the valley, and beyond. It was a clear, sunny day (this is one of the sunniest areas of France), and the distant views of Vaucluse were picture perfect.
Heading back to the old center of Visan, enjoying the warmth of the sun, I passed yet more vineyards continuing up to the beginning of the old village. The historic center has a number of interesting monuments aside from its old gates. Climbing to the top, there were the castle ruins of the Chateau Marot. It provided an opportunity to see some of the old town huddled below, as well as some of the circuit territory. (An orientation table is nearby.)
Meandering back down the picturesque narrow lanes, through quiet small squares, past beautiful old houses, I didn’t need any map to find a pastry shop (patisserie). Selecting not just one, but two pastries, I quickly made my way back to the start point, to savor the final delights of this wonderful village and trail.
