Readers may have noticed that there are many hiking trails through vineyards in the whole of the Rhine River Valley, in Germany, France and Switzerland. However, many of the vineyards in the Rhine River Valley, are not necessarily close to the river, especially since the valley is especially wide where the river flows between France and Germany. Hence Alsatian vineyards in France, and the Baden vineyards in Germany can be miles away from the river.

But it is a very different picture (and view) indeed, when hiking or biking through the northern Rheingau or southern Mittelrhein wine regions. Previous hikes through the Rheingau (on the east/right bank of the Rhine) on the fabulous Rheingauer RieslingPfad (see here, and the photo below), left me wanting to see more, and from a different perspective. I began with the southern-most vine growing area on the west/left bank of the Rhine, where the Reblausweg Trail provides nice views of both the Rheingau and Mittelrhein vineyards just across the river.

I began this circuit trail in Oberheimbach located up a short valley formed by the Heimbach Creek, a tributary to the Rhine. Here, most of the vineyards planted on the steep slopes above the creek face south. The narrow creek is often hidden from above by vegetation and buildings.  Oberheimbach is a small town, more a village, that is seriously dedicated to wine, having a number of vintners, taverns and restaurants. The village is pretty much laid out along the winding main road heading up the valley, although it does have a nice square around the church.

The trail meanders between the main road and the lanes through the vineyards that parallel the main road, thus affording hikers the opportunity to plan for a sit-down meal in the village (Covid restrictions allowing), or stock up on supplies for a picnic. Since it was a short, seven-kilometer/five-mile hike, I opted for the former, after I completed the circuit.

After strolling uphill through the village, the trail climbs through the vineyards to a wood line. Even in May, the shade was welcome. After a pleasant segment through woods, I reached the high point of the trail. From around this point, views in three of four directions are spectacular, making the (moderate) climb well worth the effort.

South, across the vineyards, were wooded hills. The 17-kilometer Panoramaweg circuit trail, which the Reblausweg Trail follows on this ridgeline, continues on the other side through those wooded hills, for those with nothing but time.

To the east, I could see the famous vineyards of the Rheingau region, just outside Lorch. The view resurrected wonderful memories of hiking the Riesling Pfad, that marvelous long-distance trail, which alternated between waterside stretches, and stretches far above the Rhine, on ridgelines above perilously steep vineyards. Here I could see where I had been, and catch the river and vineyard views from a different perspective.

To the northeast, I caught a glimpse of Kaub over the Rhine. The vineyards by the romantic castle and ruins mark the start of the right bank vineyards for the Mittelrhein wine region. From this point north, Mittelrhein vineyards may be found on both sides of the river, often coming down to the river’s edge.

To be honest, excepting the Riesling Pfad trail, some of the best perspectives of the Rhine and its vineyards I ever experienced were on a boat tour. I took a particularly memorable tour one warm day from Koblenz to Ruedesheim, sitting on the deck, glass of wine in hand, effortlessly passing by the vineyards, castles and Lorelei. A Boppard to Bingen tour would be just as nice, albeit a bit shorter. (See the KD Koeln-Dusseldorfer line for details as they offer a variety of boating adventures through the Mittelrhein.) While not conferring that same sense of accomplishment as hiking a Middle Rhine itinerary, for those with neither the time nor inclination to hike this area, a day trippers boat tour provides a very pleasant opportunity to see the river, vineyards and castles of the Rhine from a unique vantage point.

The trail then continues downhill to the small town of Niederheimbach, where the Heimbach Creek meets the Rhine River. But rather than enter the town center, the trail circles above it, and follows through vineyards above the creek back uphill to Oberheimbach. (However, hikers arriving by train or ferry will begin at the river’s edge, and pass through the town to get to the vineyards.)

Since I had parked in Oberheimbach, I continued back to the village, where delicious local wines and cuisine awaited. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of both, and resolved to return to complete another local trail one day.