Beautiful Tuscany! The landscape, the people, the food, and of course the wine! And Chianti, the region and the wine, is what most people think of when they think of Tuscany. While opportunities abound to enjoy the food and the wine, there are precious few opportunities to experience the Chianti landscape, especially the terroirs of some of the better known wine areas, to walk them, to hike them, to see them from other than a car window, on your way to a winery, or a well-known town for a quick visit. Given the number of people I met on this trip that bemoaned the lack of well-established country walking opportunities, it appears there is a definite interest in trails (if for no other reason than to be able to walk off all those food and wine calories)!
That is why I was delighted to have identified trails on a recent trip to Chianti. The estate of Vignamaggio, specifically, has developed three short trails that showcase their vineyards, forests and olive groves. This is a private initiative that could go far in promoting their efforts in eno-tourism.
The trails in this case are circuits, passing many of the estates vineyards and olive groves. They are short, but challenging enough, and well-laid out, covering a variety of landscapes. Each trail provides a unique and interesting experience. Additionally, this is beautiful Tuscan countryside, with lovely vistas, fresh scents of trees, vines and fields, and a gentle quiet that prevails throughout.
An escape from the noise and smell of motorini! These trails mostly follow on agricultural paths, or country roads that have very little traffic. The only noises I heard were occasional birds, and the babbling of the streams. In the forest, under the canopy of pine trees or live oak species, I enjoyed the scents of evergreen or fresh earth. From the rows of vines, came the heady, unique scent of ripe, almost over-ripe, grapes. (It was just days before the start of the harvest.)
Vignamaggio vineyards are named, another link with tradition that demonstrates that in Tuscany, the land is intimately known and cared for. Furthermore, the link is carried over in the names of wines produced: Il Morino, for example, is both the name of a vineyard, and of an estate wine. These trails take walkers right along Il Morino and Il Pozzo, to name two. I will better savor the wine for it, as a reminder of my time there.
The views over the vineyards, and of the villa, were the stuff of dreams. The Vignamaggio villa dates to the Renaissance era, a time when Tuscany was well-off, and families built magnificent villas to last. This particular family, the Gherardini, is famous for a portrait of one of the daughters of the family. Her portrait is likely the most famous in the world: Leonardo Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Surrounded by stately cypress trees, the villa itself is a vision of magnificent classic beauty. In the distance, small hilltop villages, or isolated farm houses set amidst vineyards or olive groves showed a more familiar side of Tuscan life.
The trails through this wonderful landscape end where they begin. After an early morning walk of a couple of hours, the well-stocked wine shop and cantina tour beckoned, and I eagerly anticipated a truly memorable lunch on the terrace. Bravo, Vignamaggio!