What I Learned:  

The vintners in the valley of the Adda River in the Valtellina region of Lombardy, Italy, produce well-regarded, powerfully flavorful, red wines.  Not many people outside Italy are aware of these wines, but they deserve some attention for a couple of reasons. While this DOC zone is not the northernmost DOC zone in Italy, its grapes grow at altitudes of over 760 meters (2500 feet). The terrain here is dominated by mountains: rocky, incredibly steep, subject to sudden changes in weather from the north. The primary varietal planted here is well-known, especially in the Piedmont. Called the Nebbiolo there, it produces the famed Barolo wine, among others. In Valtellina, it is known as the chiavennasca, or cuinasca in dialect. On a much smaller scale, you will also find rossola, fortana, and small amounts of more familiar varietals such as pinot noir and merlot. Another reason the wines and tradition of wine making is so interesting here has to do with the almost exclusive use of the chiavennasca in producing all the DOC and DOCG wines of the area, and the strict rules which govern production. At the top of the quality scale is Sforzato di Valtellina (known as Sfursat di Valtellina in dialect), which like the more famous Valpolicella amarone, comes from grapes that after harvest, dry in open air for a minimum of 110 days before being pressed. The Sfursat must contain at least 90% nebbiolo and age for at least 20 months in wood and bottle. Compare that expression of the nebbiolo with the other DOCG of Valtellina, the Valtellina Superiore. These wines must contain 90% nebbiolo, and must age for at least 24 months, and come from one of the five recognized zones of the region. Finally, the Rosso di Valtellina, a DOC wine, also must contain at least 90% nebbiolo, but these grapes come from zones outside the recognized five. Comparing the expressions of nebbiolo from the different zones, the different production methods and with Piedmontese nebbiolo wines, is a real treat for nebbiolo fans. The classification system in Valtellina, like the appellation controlee system in France, is based on geography. In Valtellina, there are five recognized areas of cultivation of the chiavennasca grape, distinct microzones of terroirs and traditions, each with its own history, and each with its own Chiavennasca wine.  Visiting each area, and sampling their wines, provides an excellent opportunity to explore the different expressions of chiavennsca wine. Valgella, the largest zone with 137 hectares, begins east of Chiuro, and continues to Tresenda. Sassella, with 130 hectares, begins just outside Sondrio, but heads west to the hamlet of Moroni. It is the oldest recognized zone, and perhaps the most well-known outside the region. Grumello also begins just outside Sondrio, running north and east from there, for a total of 77 hectares. Inferno is the zone centered around the township of Poggidirenti, and lies in part, above the Grumello zone near Montagna in Valtellina. Inferno means “hell” in Italian. Not surprisingly, this zone is one of the rockiest and least hospitable to work. It has about 55 hectares. Maroggia, the most recently included zone, and the smallest with only 25 hectares, lies between the communities of Ardenno and Berbenno di Valtellina. However, it does have an old history, and cantinas equally aged to match. As usual, the church had a hand in establishing a medieval tradition of wine production, centered in this case around the Monastery of Berbenno. Up until the late Nineteenth Century, the wine was known specifically as Maroggia, and was sold locally, to include nearby Swiss communities. However, production and quality declined after that. Fortunately, the wine from this area is making a comeback! Finally, a word about the IGT Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio, wine from grapes of other vineyards around Sondrio, as well as from grapes of other local area or others within Lombardy. The IGT Retiche di Sondrio may be white, or rose wines, new or sparkling, or even red wines. But nebbiolo grapes must not be used in any way in the production of white wines bearing this designation. (See www.consoriziovinivaltellina.com http://www.quattrocalici.it/denominazioni/terrazze-retiche-di-sondrio-igt) What I Tasted: White: La Novella, Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio Bianco IGT, 2011, Nera, a white made from the Nebbiolo, Chardonnay and Manzoni varietals, was dry, interesting, subtle fruity flavors. White: Torre della Sirena, Terrazze Retiche di Sondrio Bianco IGT, 2011, Conti Sertoli Salis, a dry white made from the Rossola and Pignola grapes, with a definite yellow color, a medium body, and hints of apricots. Very interesting. Red: Valgella, 2010, Marchetti Maria Luisa, dry red with a rich color. More berry flavors than others I tasted from this area, with floral and honey notes. Very interesting, and it is still comparatively young! Red: Inferno Riserva, DOCG, 2009, Nera, another red wine, made from the Nebbiolo varietal. It was not too dry, some hint of cherry and a thinner mouthfeel than expected. Red: Inferno Riserva, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, 2006, Balgera: smoky, slightly oaky, strong tannins, very dry. Red: Valgella, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, 2009, Bettini, very dry, spice, with some smoky taste behind it, and a hint of honey. Deep, red color, Thinner mouthfeel than expected. Very nice. Red: Sassella, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, 2009, Nino Negri, dry, strong tannins, cherries, and a taste of apricot, medium body and mouthfeel. Red: Sant Andrea, (from grapes picked late, on the eponymous nameday – 30 November), Valtellina Superiore, DOCG 2009, Fratelli Bettini: cherries and oak predominate, medium mouthfeel, dry, but big flavor. Red: Valgella, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG 2009, Vigna la Cornella, Fratelli Bettini, lightly smoky, lightly oaky, hints of cherry, smooth and medium mouthfeel. Red: Grumello, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, Nino Negri, Chiuro, complex wine with loads of flavor, berries,  floral and touch of smokiness, reminiscent of a port; powerful tannins with a nice finish. Red:  Mazer, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, Negri, a dry, smoky red, with a hint of vanilla. Surprisingly lighter color than expected but a medium mouthfeel nonetheless. Red: Sassella, Valtellina Superiore, 2008, Pietro Triacca, the driest red yet I have had from this region. Rich nose, color and mouthfeel, with cherry and oak flavors Red: Grumello, Valtellina Superiore, 2008, (Aldo) Rainoldi, (Chiuro), dry, tastes of prunes and a little oak, with an interesting hint of smokiness. Red: Grumello, Nino Negri 2007, light color, medium body, rich taste, with dry cherry flavors and hints of oak. Above all, interesting to note how a nebbiolo wine tastes when grown in a different terroir. (Nice, even interesting, but I would still prefer a Barolo.) Red: Sforzato di Valtellina, DOCG, 2007, Nera, made from the Nebbiolo varietal, shows more power and strength than the Inferno. Strong cherry flavors, dry and rich mouthfeel. Red: Sassella, Riserva, Valtellina Superiore, DOCG, 2006, Nera, cherry flavors, oak, a good dinner wine that doesn’t come across as too powerful in flavor, body or mouthfeel. Red: Maroggia, Valtellina Superiore, 2002, Consorzio Produttori del Vino Maroggia (Assoviuno di Tarotelli Matteo (di Berbenno); a smooth, dry, rich red colored wine. Mild tannins, with hints of berries and a whiff of smoke.