In my search in Italy for a DOC wine producing region around Lake Como, Lake Maggiore or Lake Lugano, I found nothing. Instead, I made a great find just over the border in Switzerland: delicious wines from the southern-most part of the Ticino, complemented with great food, and well-laid-out vineyard trails.
The Ticino is Italianate Switzerland, with similar weather and feel to it. It is set in a small piece of land which is roughly bounded by Lake Como, Lake Lugano, and Lake Maggiore. The beautiful lakes are surrounded by mountains which range away in ridges from the lakes in ever increasing heights, ending in snow-capped peaks. This hike began by the lowest ridge, which is also where the vines begin.
Starting in the historic section of Mendrisio, the main town in the region, this trail quickly headed into the wineries and wine taverns on the outskirts of town. If I have any complaint about the trail, it is that the trail practically started there! After seeing the inclines ahead, I was disinclined to stop for a tasting or two before completing the trail. However, the taverns, some with seating outside, looked very inviting, and have wonderful views over the valley; certainly worth returning to at the end of the hike.
As the trail climbed higher, those views became even more spectacular. Palms, even lemon trees planted in containers on sunny patios facing south, attest to the Mediterranean weather and feel of the area, set against a backdrop of spectacular Alpine scenery. The high point of the trail, literally, came at the Sant’ Antonino church, a lovely site for a picnic. From here, the views extend south and west into Italy.
More vineyard scenery came on the descent. Castel San Pietro is noted for its vineyards, and here, they set in terraces ranging along the hillsides. In Corteglia, I was lucky to find that the Parravicini winery was open. I loaded up my backpack before continuing along the section of the trail that I found the most appealing. Facing south, the vineyards soaked up the glittering sunight. Spring flowers and flowering shrubs were in full bloom in the gentle warmth. A copse of luxurious, dark green evergreens, crowned a small rise, looking resplendent against a cloudless blue sky.
Dropping over the rise, facing north now, the snow-capped peaks drew the eye irresistibly up the valley, past ridgeline after ridgeline of stone-ribbed mountains. After passing through a simple archway below an ancient bell tower set in the walls of a church, a wonderful view of Mendrisio appeared below, and the start/end point was in sight. Time for wine.
In town, the first taste of a local wine proved amazing. One sip of the powerful, dry, full-bodied red, consumed with the music of Italian in my ears, made it easy to think I was in Italy. It confirmed my initial impressions from this brief visit that this beautiful region with its dramatic scenery – with its wonderful trail, having enough incline to be challenging, and enough variety between town, village, fields, vineyards and forest, to be interesting – and above all, with its luscious, regional Merlots – was a fantastic find in Switzerland!
