Set in the highest wine village in Europe, the Kitzecker Weinwanderweg surely lived up to its name, with multiple steep, vine-laden slopes to conquer, culminating in a sense of standing on top of the wine world. But having multiple opportunities to crest some of the highest slopes in the district, I could see for myself the incredible 360 degree vistas that height affords, all around this tranquil village in southern Styria.
The trail was nicely laid out. The elevation changed constantly, leading through diverse landscapes. From village center to meadows and forests. Then there were the vineyards, irregularly shaped parcels covering sun-drenched slopes, often in view, and only occasionally passed through. There were streams and hillsides to walk along, usually shaded by old trees. In other words, there is a lot of variety to be had in a relatively short distance.
Hiking this trail in June meant long days, hot sun and lush vegetation in the meadows, forests and vineyards. So I began this short (9.2 kilometer) trail at around 5 p.m., when the sun was less fierce, and the temperatures dropped. While the leaf-cover from trees overhead was much appreciated, there wasn’t much I could do about the vegetation in the meadows. In a couple of places, it rose about 1.25 meters/four feet high, and unfortunately ticks, and tick-borne diseases, are on the rise in Europe. Where possible, I took an alternate route to rejoin the trail through vineyards or forest. Fortunately, this was possible as the town has a number of trails through and around it, making it a hiker’s paradise. Unfortunately though, on that day I belatedly concluded that this idyllic trail might be best hiked in later fall or early spring, when the meadow vegetation has scaled back.
But even my couple of alternative routes (one along a road) were conducted in peaceful solitude. In reality, you get here a lot of quiet here. No rushing vehicles, no bustling village center. There is the wine museum right at the start of the trail that should not be missed, but otherwise, there is not much to indicate an actual urban hub. The village is more like a series of beautifully maintained farms loosely strung along a country lane. A couple of farms have converted to tourist accommodations, ranging from elegant to simple. Other farms do double duty as restaurants or wine taverns.
A church dramatically tops the highest point of Kitzeck. Its tower is like a beacon, and eyes from all around are drawn to it, starkly thrust up against an endless sky. Inside is simply decorated. But this small church with its stunning location, needs no further adornment.
But while the hikers tendency might be to look down, as from the church, the high vantage point around, or from an open hillside, to appreciate the steepness of the terrain hikers should pause to look up every now and then along this trail. The vines seem to be stacked on top of each other, and the trees rise like sentinels, one behind the other. The luxuriant and brilliant greens were everywhere and constantly evolving. The greens darkened and the blues intensified as the sun sank lower in the horizon.
Leaving the final forested section, I entered a compound of half a dozen houses and farm buildings. Here I passed a wine tavern, sadly closed on a Tuesday at around 7:30 on a beautiful evening. My thirst unquenched, but visually rewarded with a dramatic view of the church tower, backlit by the last rays of the setting sun, I made my way to the top of the hill, passing the church, and enjoying the last views of the day from yet another wine-themed trail, this time in Kitzeck.
