The Drome Provencal, set south of Valence in France’s Rhone River Valley, already had spring-like weather when I visited in mid-February. With several fairly easy mountain biking trails suitable for the whole family, I decided to try one that centered around the village of Chamaret.

Sadly though, my bike was not available that day, and not finding a rental (a downside to winter touring), I decided to hike the southern part of the trail, beginning and ending in the village center. I am glad I made that call, for two reasons. The first: my hybrid bike and I would not have done well on part of this trail, and second: a short hike gave me time to explore this charming village.

Chamaret is typical of many of the smaller villages in this region. Within the core of the old settlement, winding, narrow lanes threaded between old stone dwellings, rising up to the castle. Perched atop a rocky outcropping, the fortifications were impressive.  From the castle, the 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside were breath-taking. These included views of neighboring towns and villages; of a classic patchwork of fields, orchards and copses; and of distant mountains, from Mont Ventoux to the Dentelles de Montmirail, and across the Rhone River to the rounded mountains of the Ardeche.

 

Charming as the village was, the trail beckoned. This trail, named “De Tour en Grotte,” “from tower to cave” (not to be confused with “cave” as in the French word for wine cellar), was not wine-themed, but did pass through or by vineyards along much of its length.  Heading south from the village, within a couple of minutes lavender fields and vineyards predominated. In this part of the Drome, agriculture rests on a triad of Mediterranean products: lavender, grapes and olives. This dry, garrigue-like land supports all three well.

 

The hiking was initially easy, and mountain-biking would be as well, even with a hybrid. Then the trail entered a forested area close to the little Lez River. This began a trail section that would have challenged me and my hybrid bike. The trail narrowed dramatically, in some places not much wider than my foot. So, balancing at speed would have been an issue. Then came the steep (for bikers) climb up rocky ledge, cut like steps in places, smooth as silk (but with a covering of scree), in others. Not being a mountain biker, it seemed that the only thing scarier for me than going up that combination, would be coming down it. Nonetheless, I saw a trio of retirees along this section of the trail, so it is do-able, especially with suitable mountain-bikes (and presumably some practice). (Also, not wanting to discourage anyone from this beautiful trail, it would be possible to walk up or down the slope, (the only challenging spot along this southern half of the trail), which was wide again at that point.)

 

Once on top of the slope, the trail turned away from the river, and the surface became doable again for bikers of all sorts. Atop this high plateau the forest gave way to fields, bringing Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail into view. Heading north now, the fields alternated between lavender bushes and vines. Both grew out of terrain covered with galets – smooth river rocks – much like the ones found 35 kilometers/20 miles south in Chateauneuf du Pape. Because it was winter, neither the vines nor the lavender bushes were in leaf. An interesting study in contrasts between textures and shapes, but otherwise not especially aesthetically pleasing.

 

Along the way, ancient walls, old farmsteads, a modest chateau, and even an old borie (a small, round, covered, stone structure used by farmers to shelter implements and himself from bad weather) appeared, all made of beautifully weathered stone, glowing softly in the low winter sun.

 

A final stretch of trail, with a flat, hard surface, and no vehicles, was an easy way for hikers or bikers to finish. On entering the hamlet, as the sun was sinking below the mountains, I was charmed once again by the tranquil village and its surrounds.