Tag Archives: Zurich

Worrenberg’s Wines and Vines

 

Zurich, Swiss financial capital with a major international airport and  European travel hub, was not far away, as the map clearly showed. The occasional aircraft loomed overhead as a reminder. But otherwise, this corner of Switzerland was rural, peaceful and green – great characteristics for any hiking trail.

The Worrenberg Weinwanderweg trail route highlighted the vineyards and wines of three small villages. All villages were in the Canton of Zurich, but they were closer to Schaffhausen, the famous city of the Rheinfalls on the Rhine River. The high-point of the trail, literally and figuratively speaking, was the vineyard area known as the Worrenberg, a south-facing slope of sufficient steepness to make it ideal for planting vines in this area.

Vines on the Worrenberg Facing Volken

 

Zurich comes within what is known as the Deutsche Schweiz (German Switzerland), that part of Switzerland using German as its principle language. The Deutsche Schweiz has several different wine appellations, and in the region of Zurich, there is the Zuercher Weinland, a wine district not far from the wine region of Thurgau, centering around the Thur River, with the Rhine River to the west. It is a hilly region, not a mountainous one. Hence this short trail is an easy trail for families.

The Worrenberg

 

I began in the village of Berg am Irchel, which refers to the higher elevation south of the town. While there were a couple of wineries and a couple of taverns, it was difficult to see how people earned their livings. As I hiked along a couple of lanes, I passed a small “schloss”, a “palace” in name only, and soon entered the town’s small vineyard area.

The Schloss in Berg am Irchel

 

Once out of the vineyard area, the trail followed along a creek, shaded by old trees. The path led to Flaach, the second of the three villages, and the largest with almost 1300 residents. Nonetheless, I did not see a living soul as I meandered across the main street.

Trail by the Flaacher Creek

 

Leaving Flaach, winding up the side of the Worrenberg, were signs that provided information about viticulture and viniculture. The Worrenberg is the largest vineyard area in this district of the Zurich appellation, and several regional vintners had parcels here. A few vintner huts lined the way, including the one associated with the region’s largest winery: the Staatskellerei Zurich. Here and there, interesting perspectives on the villages and surrounding countryside appeared, to include the third village: Volken.

Staatskellerei Zurich Sign

 

Soon I was walking along the deserted streets of Volken, past farmhouses and tidy Swiss residences. The center of town held a tavern, the Wirtschaft zur Post (closed), opposite a tiny grocery store conjoined with the Post Office. The warm greeting of the woman attending the store was enthusiastic and heartfelt. I imagine not many “foreigners”, let along locals, come in. But tiny or not, the store had a relatively large wine section, which luckily included local wines. And the one person I saw that day was an enthusiastic booster of the local wine industry. As she helped me choose the best selection of wines from local vintners, I realized that even when you think you are in barely inhabited countryside, you can always find somebody willing to talk about wine.

 

 

Wine Notes: Switzerland’s Zurich Appellation

 

What I Learned

Switzerland’s Zurich appellation is located behind the well-known Thurgau appellation on the shores of Lake Constance (Bodensee, in German), and the Sankt Gallen appellation to its east. It has five sub-districts, and clockwise, circling from north to south around the city of Zurich they are: the Zuercher Weinland, the Winterthurer Weinland, the Zuerichsee, the Limmattal, and the Unterland. Overall, the Zurich district is cooler, and more elevated than the vineyards in Thurgau, along the lake. Although fed by numerous rivers that feed into the Rhine, they are neither as large nor as temperature-moderating as the Rhine. The whole canton is covered by 613 hectares (1515 acres) of vineyard, according to the latest figures (2019). White varietals are less prominent (by approximately 2 to 3) than red ones, of which the Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) features most prominently. It has a couple of interesting grape varietals, rare elsewhere.

Raeuschling, a white grape varietal, was well-known and highly cultivated in this part of Switzerland for several centuries. Like the Mueller-Thurgau grape that later replaced it, it was a varietal for cooler climates. It produces a crisp, acidic wine.

Gamaret, a cross between Gamay and Reichensteiner, is a red grape varietal first planted in the 1970s. Developed by Swiss scientists, its popularity originally spread quickly. In addition to the Zurich area, it grows in significant quantities as well as in the Vaud, Valais, Geneva and Ticino cantons.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Riesling-Sylvaner, Worrenberger, Erb zur Post, Halbtrocken, AOC Zurich, Weinbau Post (Volken): A dry white wine with medium gold color; a sharp, green apple and slight spice nose, with citrus, green apple and spice flavors; medium plus acidity, with a slightly acidic finish.

2015 Gamaret, AOC Zurich, Trocken, Weingut Bauer (Berg am Irchel): A dry red wine with dark minus purple red color; a tobacco, chocolate and leather nose, with vanilla, blackberry, chocolate and leather flavors; a complex and interesting varietal wine with high tannins (opened in August 2019).

 

2014 Pinot Noir, Worrenberger, Erb zur Post, Trocken, AOC Zurich, Weinbau Post (Volken): A dry red wine with medium ruby red color; a fruity nose with a hint of floral notes, and blackberry flavors, with a hint of floral honey; medium plus tannins, with a slightly acidic finish.

 

 

 

Worrenberg Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Worrenberg Weinwanderweg (AKA: Weinwanderweg am Worrenberg)

Trail Type: Short-distance trail; well-maintained and asphalt or hard-packed surfaces, marking on the trail is okay

Length:

Total – about 3 kilometers/almost 2 miles

Convenient to:

Schaffhausen or Zurich, Switzerland

Marking:

Yellow signs with stylized man in solid black, or “Weinwanderweg” in red letters on a white rectangular sign.

Signage for Worrenberg WWW

 

Trail Description: A very short and gentle hike through quiet, countryside, with vistas of rolling hills in the distance. Approximately one-quarter of the whole trail is shaded, as it passes through woods. The rest is in sun. Suitable for families with elementary-aged children, and very suitable for baby carriages (in all but a small section in the woods, where for less than 100 meters the going is a bit rougher) as well.

Trailheads:

Start: Berg am Irchel: Dorfstr

End: Volken: Flaachtalstr

Parking:

Parking spots are here and there along the lanes, and near fields on the outskirts of the villages.

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: The nearest station is in Andelfingen, with commuter service trains from Schaffhausen and Winterthur

Bus: The Swiss Postbus lines 670, 675 and 677 service these villages

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (West-East)

Berg am Irchel: Dorfstr, Schlossstr, fields, along stream; Flaach: cross Oberdorfstr, Andelfingerstr, through vines on and up a slope; Volken: Glemettenstr, Flaachtalstr

Representative Trail Photos:

Surface Sample outside Villages

 

 

Restrooms: None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

None observed

Tasting along the Trail:

Weingut Bauer in Berg am Irchel; Weingut Kilchsperger in Flaach; Weingut Zur Post (also a tavern) in Volken.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Other hiking possibilities are available from local tourist offices/information points.

Biking:

-The 18 kilometer/11 milesWorrenberg-Thur bike tour follows from Flaach, over the Worrenberg, along the Thur River, then a bit along the Rhine River before returning to Flaach. Listed as medium plus difficulty.

-Part of the 90 kilometer-long Ostschweizer Weinroute (Wine Route), passes through Ossingen, about 10 km/6 miles away, on its way from Sankt Gallen to Schaffhausen, and the Rheinfalls.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.zuercher-weinland.ch/

Trail specific: http://www.worrenberg.net/Weinwanderweg/

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