Tag Archives: wines

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Wuerttembergische Bodensee

 

What I Learned

Lake Constance vineyards are the southern-most vineyards in Germany. This large lake, also known as the Bodensee, is shared between Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Along the shores of the western arm of the lake, known as the Untersee, literally the Lower Lake, viticulture was fundamental from the start of recorded history in this area, as some of the earliest monasteries in the German-speaking world were founded on Reichenau Island. (It still has vineyards, vintners, and monastic buildings and churches dating to the early Middle Ages.)

Two wine regions join on the eastern shores of the lake, Baden and Wuerttemberg. Ironically, this section of the Wuerttemberg wine region is mostly in the state of Bavaria, whose only other wine area is north, in the Franconia wine region.

This wine district consists of small vineyard areas around Wasserburg am Bodensee and Nonnenhorn, just west of the Lindau suburbs. There are only about 55 hectares/135 acres of vines, tended by about 20 vintners.  The vineyards are mostly south facing, looking out over the lake, just a couple of kilometers distant, and onto the Alps, beyond the lake in the distance. Thus, from both an enological and esthetic perspective, it is a great place to visit!

Several different varietals wines are made here. Mueller Thurgau is a widely popular white varietal and wine in this area. Another wine of note is the Weissherbst rose. It is made from a single red varietal only. However, the vintner has a choice of red varietals he can vinify into a Weissherbst rose. Most often though, it is from Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) grapes, the most popular red varietal.

 

What I Tasted

2018 Spaetburgunder Weissherbst, Nonnenhorner, Deutsche Qualitaetswein, Feinherb, Winzergemeinschaft Joseph Fuerst (Nonnenhorn): An off dry rose wine with an unusual orange rose color; mineral (iron, talc) nose with slight strawberry and wood flavors, medium minus tannins; complex and interesting

2017 Spaetburgunder, Sonnenbichl, Deutsche Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weinkellerei Joseph Fuerst (Nonnenhorn): A dry red wine with medium minus cherry red color; herbaceous and slight red berry flavors, with herbaceous, slight spice flavors, medium plus tannins.

2017 Nonnenhorner Elbling, Bayrischer Bodensee Baden, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weingut Peter Hornstein (Nonnenhorn): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; fruity nose, with peach, pear and floral flavors; high acidity.

 

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Klevener de Heiligenstein

What I Learned

In 1742, Ehrhardt Wantz, mayor of the small village of Heiligenstein in Alsace, brought some Savagnin Rose vines from Italy. Descended from the Traminer grape (Gewuerztraminer), which also came originally from Italy, these grapes were planted in Heiligenstein and subsequently in some surrounding villages (Gertwiller, among them). Currently a dozen or so vintners work with this varietal. Supplanted then as now in many respects by the Gewuerztraminer, it has a subtler aroma and flavor profile, and is less well-known. It finally obtained Appellation Alsace Klevener d’Heiligenstein Controlee status in 1971. (Reference: Alsace Habsiger Domaine website: https://www.domaine-habsiger.fr/#klevener)

Heiligenstein does not have any Grands Crus, although it does have some well-sited vineyards, favored with good slope and sun and wind exposure, along with vintners passionate about creating their wines. Subtle, yet aromatic, the unique Klevener de Heiligenstein wine truly deserves its appellation status.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Cuvee Numero 1, Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Domaine Charles Boch (Heiligenstein): A dry white wine with medium yellow gold color; a floral and pear nose, with strong floral and mineral flavors, with a hint of green fruit, medium minus acidity.

2017 Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Cuvee Tentation, Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Domaine Charles Boch (Heiligenstein): A dry white wine with pale, white gold color; floral and spice nose, with honey, spice, toasted nuts and floral flavors; medium minus acidity.

2016 Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Kleinbuhr: A dry white wine with medium plus yellow gold color; a floral nose with hints of turpentine (as in reminiscent of Riesling); spice, floral (rose) and nutty flavors; medium plus acidity, with a smooth finish.

2016 Klevener d’Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Maison Alsace Habsiger (Gertwiller): A dry white wine with medium gold color; slight floral nose, with honey, floral, mineral and very slight exotic fruits flavors; medium acidity.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Hessische Bergstrasse

 

What I Learned

The Hessische Bergstrasse wine region is not very well known outside of Germany, in spite of the fact that it begins only about 25 kilometers/16 miles north of the well-visited city of Heidelberg. It is the smallest German wine region, and has only two tiny districts. The  Starkenburg district falls between the towns of Zwingenberg, to the north, and Heppenheim on the southern end. The town of Bensheim lies about midway between the two. Bensheim itself is home to a well-known Grosslage, the Wolfsmagen. The Streichling, Hemsberg, Stemmler, and Paulus vineyard areas cover the hills south and east of the old town. Much of the Hemsberg and Paulus have nice exposure to the sun as it sinks behind the Haardt mountains in the Pfalz, on the western side of the Rhine River valley. The Kirchberg and Kalkgasse lie separately, on the northern side of the old town center. Thus, the Wolfsmagen Grosslage can claim  almost as much as acreage as the total acreage in the Umstadt district, the other, northern, district within the Hessische Bergstrasse wine region.

The principal grape varietals grown here are Riesling, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, and Silvaner. Spaetburgunder is the only red varietal  grown here in significant quantities, although, some Dornfelder may be found and used in wine blends.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Riesling, Bensheimer Wolfsmagen, Hessische Bergstrasse, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Goetzinger: A dry white wine with light plus gold color, green apple and fresh cut grass nose, with green apple and fresh cut grass flavors, with a hint of smoke, tart finish with medium plus acidity.

2014 Riesling, Bensheimer Hemsberg, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Bergstraesser Winzer: A dry white wine with medium-light gold color; talc and slightly floral nose; citrus flavors, some hints of vanilla, mild acidity.

Rotsekt, Cuvee, Halbtrocken, Weinkellerei Josef Mohr (Bensheim): A semi-dry sparkling red wine (mostly Dornfelder) with dark cranberry red color and fine bubbles; nose of spices, predominantly cloves, and red berry and spice flavors.

 

 

 

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Bernkastel Moselle

 

What I Learned

The Mosel (Moselle)-Saar Ruwer Wine Region is a large one. The focus here is the wine growths directly along the Moselle River valley, which is classified into three sections: The Southern (Upper) Moselle area, the Bernkastel (Middle) Moselle area, and the Terraced (Lower) Moselle.

The Upper Moselle (in Germany) begins at the French border, at Perl, opposite the Luxembourg town of Schengen. It follows the river downstream. The soil here is characterized by shell limestone, marl and sediment. The slopes here are fairly gentle, and the Saar River joins into the Moselle at the edge of this zone. This area ends where it abuts against the Bernkastel (Middle) Moselle zone, around the city of Trier. The Ruwer district joins the Moselle above Trier, then the Bernkastel zone begins again by Kenn, and continues uninterrupted almost reaching Zell (Mosel). Most visitors begin their Moselle visits at Bernkastel-Kues, and follow downriver to Zell and Cochem, even to Koblenz on the Rhine, thus missing this southern Bernkastel area completely. In this middle district, I mostly focused on wines from Mehring, and its well-known Goldkupp and Zellerberg vineyards. The area around Trier (famous for Karl Marx and the Romans), produced some interesting wines as well. This is where Roman history and great wine terroir combine to create a compelling experience for wine tourists.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Riesling Spaetlese, Mehringer Goldkupp, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Sebastiani (Mehring): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; floral, mineral nose, with spice mustard, slight turpentine, and fruit flavors, medium plus acidity, with a tart finish.

2017 Riesling, Mehringer Zellerberg, Hochgewaechs, Halb-Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Sebastiani: An off-dry white wine with pale plus gold color; a slightly mineral nose, with green apples, and green gooseberry flavors.

2017 Riesling Auslese, Mehringer Goldkupp, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Sebastiani: A sweet white wine with medium minus gold color; a ripe, fruity nose, with ripe peach and apricot flavors; mild acidity, and well-balanced overall.

2017 Weissburgunder, Mehringer Zellerberg, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Sebastiani: A dry white wine with pale gold color; a slight nose of fruit, and green apple flavor, with a hint of minerality; Medium acidity.

2016 Dornfelder, Auf Schock, Trocken, QbA, Weingut Jutta Fassian (Mehring): A dry red wine with dark garnet color; cherry nose with a hint of tobacco, cherry, pipe tobacco and oak flavors; soft, mild tannins, smooth finish, with a velvety mouthfeel.

2016 Riesling, Trierer Sankt Mattheiser, Hochgewaechs, Feinherb, Qualitaetswein, Weingut H. Wahlen (Trier): An off-dry white wine with light gold color, fruity and mineral nose, with floral and ripe peach flavors; medium acidity, smooth, sweet finish.

2015 Spaetburgunder Rose, Halb-Trocken, QbA, Weingut Longen-Schloeder (Longen-Longuich): An off-dry rose with a light cranberry color; slight red berry and floral nose, with red berry and vanilla flavors, hint of stone-mineral; smooth finish.

 

 

 

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Franconia’s Mainviereck

 

What I Learned

Baden and Wuerttemberg, formerly two different principalities, joined in 1952 to become one state in the Federal Republic of Germany. However, the Baden wine region and the Wuerttemberg wine region remain distinct. (There is no such thing as a Baden-Wuerttemberg wine region.) But in the northern-most corner of the old Baden, and west of Wuerzburg in the far western corner of Bavaria, two wine regions, the Franken and the Baden, meet to form a complex mosaic of wine districts and famous growths. The Schoppen Radweg bicycle trail took me through the vineyards of these regions from the Wertheim am Main to Marktheidenfeld, Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld and along the Main River to Homburg am Main.

Franconian Terroir:

The Franken region has three zones, the Steigerwald, the Maindreieck (Main Triangle), and the Mainviereck (Main Rectangle). Both the latter two lie along the Main River, but geologically they are very different terroir. Shell limestone soils predominate in the Maindreieck, and results in very different wines from wines grown in the red sandstone of the Mainviereck. The small area around Marktheidenfeld and Homburg am Main lies in between these two Franconian wine districts, and the soils reflect its position between the two. The best vineyards in this district face the Main River as it twists south yet again. The most prized vineyards are the Kallmuth by Homburg am Main, and the Lengfurter Oberrot (The rot (red) referring to the red sandstone of the Mainviereck that begins to appear here along with the shell limestone of the Maindreieck.) This small area produces both red and white wines: Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Silvaner being especially popular here.

Baden Terroir:

The Baden wine district here (one of nine in the Baden wine region) forms part of the Tauberfranken district (even though it is not along the Tauber River here).  The vineyards face south, along the small valley of the Aalbach, as it heads toward the Main. The Tauberfranken district produces primarily white wines, with Mueller-Thurgau leading in amount.

 

What I Tasted

2016 Spaetburgunder, Lengfurter Oberrot, QbA, Trocken, Weinhaus Frank: A dry red wine with medium red plus ruby red color; a nose of vanilla, blackberry and cherry; with oak, vanilla and cherry flavors; medium tannins, with a smooth finish.

2016 Silvaner, Homburger Kallmuth, QbA, Trocken, Weingut Blank: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a fruity and slightly mineral nose, with slight vanilla, nutmeg, and white peach flavors; medium plus acidity with a green apple finish.

2017 Weisser Burgunder, Homburger Kallmuth, Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Huller: A dry white wine with dark minus yellow gold color; a fruity nose with hints of peach, gooseberry and citrus; with flavors of tangy green apple, and ripe red apple; medium minus acidity.

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Chateauneuf du Pape

 

What I Learned

Located in the Southern Rhone wine region of France, Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the world’s most iconic French wines. It has historically been one of France’s most exclusive wines. Since the days of the Popes at Avignon, this wine over time improved, until it became one of the most sought after wines in Europe. Nearby, and even not so near-by wine-makers began to capitalize on its fame, and labelled their own wines “Chateauneuf du Pape.” Indignant Chateauneuf du Pape villagers lobbied the national assembly to pass a law, thus inspiring the Appellation d’Origine Controlee system.

The wines themselves (both red and white) are blends. Traditionally, up to thirteen grapes (both red and white) may be used in the red blend, although most wine-makers rely on fewer than that, and most use at least some Grenache. Other red grape varietals often include another Rhone Valley favorite Syrah, and Southern Rhone stand-ins Mourvedre and Cinsault.

White Chateauneuf du Pape wines are more difficult to find because less than ten percent of the total Chateauneuf du Pape wine production is white wine. No red varietals are allowed in the white wines, leaving the winemakers only six varietals, among them the Grenache Blanc, the Southern Rhone valley perennials Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul.

Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards are also famous for their galets. Rounded stones brought down by the Rhone over eons, they cover the vineyards in many places. Imagine stones akin to Russet potatoes strewn throughout the vineyards! They serve the practical function of reducing weeds, and catching the heat of the sun by day, releasing it at night.

 

What I Tasted

2015 Le P’tit Plaisir, Vin de France, Domaine Eddie Feraud: A dry white wine cuvee (Grenache, Clairette, Muscat) with medium minus gold color, spice, wood and slight floral nose, with vanilla, floral and slight wood flavors, medium acidity, smooth overall.

2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A dry white wine with a medium yellow gold color; mineral and floral nose, along with vanilla and toasted nuts flavors; medium acidity, with a very suave mouth feel and very smooth finish.

2014 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A very dry red wine with dark minus garnet color; tobacco and red cherry nose with herbal and spicy notes, slight leather and cherry flavors, with notes of smoke, and cedar; medium tannins, very dry, with a smooth finish ending on a wisp of smoke.

2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Tradition, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau de la Gardine: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of spice, smoke, stewed plums, with flavors of leather, smoke, stewed red fruits; medium plus tannins, long finish.

2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau Mont-Redon: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of leather and spice, blackberry, vanilla and oak flavors; medium tannins with a smooth finish.

 

 

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Seinsheim Bullenheim

 

What I Learned

Of the Franconia (Franken) wine region’s districts, the Steigerwald district is undoubtedly less well-known than the other two (the Maindreieck around Wuerzburg, and the Mainviereck), and consequently, one of the least visited. The Steigerwald is a tranquil area, focused largely on agriculture. One major attraction is the relatively large Steigerwald Nature park, with wide swathes of tree-covered hills. But on the edges of those hills are vineyards. The vineyard area is known as Frankenberger Schlossstueck, with three vineyards – the Hohenbuehl, the Tannenberg, and the Paradies, belonging to the villages of Seinsheim, Huettenheim and Bullenheim respectively.

Mueller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Bacchus are the three most common grape varieties planted here. The Bacchus varietal was created by crossing a Riesling with a Silvaner, then with a Mueller-Thurgau. The three parent varietals all do relatively well in cooler climate, which is why these, along with Bacchus, are the most planted varietals in this district. These grapes tend to produce light, fruity, white wines, a delight to drink chilled. Normally neither as acidic, nor as aromatic as Riesling, both the Silvaner and Bacchus wines are less-intense alternatives to Riesling, and are found almost only in Franconia.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Mueller-Thurgau, Kabinett, Trocken, Paradies Wein: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of green apple and gooseberry, with vanilla, green apple, and slight stone fruit flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart lengthy finish.

2017 Bacchus, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Winzerhof Klaus Markert (Weigenheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium gold color; apricot, white peach and vanilla aromas and flavors; medium acidity.

2016 Bacchus, Bullenheimer Paradies, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Weinbau Erich Schwemmer (Seinsheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium minus gold color; neutral nose, with apricot, white peach and vanilla flavors; medium minus acidity.

 

France, Wines

Wine Notes:  Haut Rhin Grands Crus

 

What I Learned:

Vorbourg, Hatschbourg, Goldert, Eichberg, Pfersigberg, and Zinnkoepfle  are the special vineyard areas in the zone called the Champ de Fractures de Rouffach-Guebwiller, where millions of years ago, the land collapsed. This zone of the Alsace wine region is particularly known for its Grands Crus. The wines from Grands Crus are generally considered superior to non-Grand Cru wines because the terroir where they lie is considered particularly favorable for growing vines. Clos de St Landelin, Clos de St Imer lie within the Grand Cru Vorbourg and Goldert, respectively. The fact that these sub-sections of vineyards were enclosed indicates that grapes matured here especially well, and were tempting targets for thieves! Due to the particular nature of conditions here, certain grape varieties do very well in this zone. About 50 percent of the wines from these vineyards are Gewuerztraminer,  followed by Riesling and Pinot Gris.

The Clos de St Landelin is a monopole (owned by one owner, in this case the Mure family), and sadly, I didn’t taste any of their wines. But I did taste a range of Ernest Burn winery’s Clos St Imer/Grand Cru Goldert wines. Burn offers wines with low acidity. They achieve this by delaying picking as long as possible (without becoming a vendage tardive, or late harvest, wine), then keeping one year in stainless steel tanks, followed by two years in wood barrels (not barriques). Due to this process, most Burn wines are older when first available for public sale (or tasting). It was a unique and delicious tasting experience, especially for the Riesling and Pinot Gris wines!

 

What I Tasted:

2012 Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Eichberg, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Domaine Gruss (Eguisheim): A dry white wine with a dark light gold color; a nose with some vanilla and spice; notes of citrus, peach, and toast; medium acidity, well-balanced overall.

2012 Pinot Gris, Grand Cru Eichberg, Leon Baur (Eguisheim): A dry white wine with medium gold color, scent of fresh grass, with hints of honey and a trace of vanilla and spice; mild acidity

2010 Gewuerztraminer, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn (Gueberschwihr): An off-dry white wine, with medium gold color; an explosion of roses on the nose, and with rich exotic fruits, (lychee, ripe pineapple), spices, to include vanilla, flavors; very mild acidity, with a medium length finish.

2009 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine with light-plus gold color; turpentine nose, with rich fruity red apple and pear flavors; very, very mild acidity.

2009 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, La Chapelle, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of spice, and slight turpentine, flavors of peach, apricots, vanilla and a hint of floral; mild acidity.

2009 Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine, light gold in color with a slight trace of pink; ripe, white stone fruits nose; ripe peach, ripe melon and honey flavors; low acidity.

2009 Pinot Gris, La Chapelle, Goldert, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: A dry white wine with dark gold color; exotic fruits nose, flavors of honey, ripe apricot, ripe honeydew melon, pineapple; mild acidity.

2007 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine with gold color; medium-plus gold color; turpentine nose, with rich fruity flavors and a trace of minerality; very, very mild acidity.

2007 Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine, light pink-gold in color; ripe, white stone fruits nose; ripe peach, ripe melon and honey flavors; low acidity.

 

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Gaillac

 

What I Learned

The Gaillac tradition of wine-making is one of the oldest in France. But well before that, there is documented evidence of the local population drinking wine imported from Greece, and even Asia Minor. Suffice it to say, wine produced here today has a lot of savoir-faire, or know-how, behind it !

The Appellation Gaillac territory lies east of Toulouse, and is subject to both Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences. Situated in the rolling hills between the Aveyron River, and both banks of the Tarn River, this fertile area has ideal conditions for vineyards. There are three main growth areas

-The Rive Gauche, known also as the Terrasses de la Rive Gauche, which indicates a generally flatter area

-The Rive Droite (around Gaillac, Lisle sur Tarn and Rabastens), known also, and appropriately so, as Coteaux de la Rive Droite, indicating an area of hills, where vines grow on the south-facing slopes

-The Plateau Cordais, north of the Rive Droit, in an area of higher elevation, which includes the impressive town of Cordes sur Ciel

The dry white wines received appellation status in 1938. Gaillac white wines include some unique varietals such as Loin de l’œil. It is rather perfumed, and is often blended with another unusual varietal Mauzac. Ondenc is yet another appellation varietal, and unusually, it is often harvested and bottled as a later harvest wine.

The red wines, however, only obtained appellation status in 1970.  The main red varietal is Braucol, with notes of raspberry and cassis. Duras and Prunelart, both of which were practically extinct by the end of the phylloxera crisis, are usually blended with Braucol, or the another main red varietal in this area, Syrah.

 

What I Tasted

2021 Loin de l’Oeil, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie (Saint Sulpice): A dry white wine with very pale, almost white gold color, with a citrus and tropical fruits nose, and citrus and mineral flavors; fairly well-balanced with medium plus acidity

2021 Le Perle, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie: A dry white cuvee with pale, white gold color; a peach and mineral nose; flavors of green apple, peach, and pineapple; a slight fizz, with mild acidity.

2021 Le Perle, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie: A dry rose cuvee with pale rose color; red berry nose and flavors, with hints of spice

2020  Loin de l’Oeil, Sans Culotte, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie (Saint Sulpice): A dry white wine with very pale, almost white gold color; floral nose, with floral and white stone fruits flavors, well balanced with medium acidity, and no sulfites added!

2021 Cuvee, AOP Gaillac, Domaine Les Grezels (Gaillac); A dry white wine cuvee (Muscadelle (20%), Loin de l’œil (40%), and  Mauzac (40%)), with pale gold color; citrus nose, with flavors of citrus, and ripe pear; very mild acidity.

2021 Rose cuvee, Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) Gaillac, Chateau de Saurs (Lisle s/Tarn):  A dry, salmon pink cuvee of Duras and Syrah, red berry fruits, medium acidity and medium length finish.

2021 Les Cedres, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Chateau Tauzies, (bottled by Vinovalie): A dry rose cuvee with pale rose color; bright red berries nose, slightly herbal notes, with flavors of the same.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Mittelrhein Reichenstein

 

What I Learned

The Mittelrhein (Middle Rhine) is famous for its castle ruins, towering cliffs, and dramatic oxbow bends along the river through this section of it. The Upper Middle Rhine is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It begins in Koblenz, and continues to Bingen.

This also defines the wine region known as the Mittelrhein. Unlike other wine regions on the Rhine, this region covers both banks of the river (beginning north of Lorchhausen, which joins the Rheingau region). Many areas of the Upper Middle Rhine do not produce wine: the topography and geology just aren’t suitable or practicable, even for growing other crops. That just makes the vineyards along this section of the Rhine even more esteemed.

On the left bank, dark slate begins to predominate in the soil around Boppard, and continues upriver until just outside Trechtingshausen. This hard rock shapes the river as well, and its many twists and turns provide optimal sun exposure for some slopes, like the famous vineyard of Bopparder Hamm, while depriving others of much sun at all just around the next bend.

Because of the different geological conditions, the Mittelrhein region is divided into different “Grosslage,” or growing areas, each containing some specifically named vineyards. This hike covered the area around mostly Oberheimbach, which falls with the Grosslage of Schloss Reichenstein, the name of a brooding castle ruin located about three miles upriver in Trechtingshausen. Well-known Nieder/Ober -heimbach vineyards include Niederheimbacher Froher Weingarten, Oberheimbacher Sonne, Oberheimbacher Klosterberg, and my personal favorite: the Oberheimbacher Wahrheit (it means “Truth”), which says all you need to know about the true expression of the terroir in the wines from here.

 

What I Tasted

2017 Riesling Weinberg Schloesschen, Spaetlese, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Juergen Stassen (Oberheimbach): A dry white wine with medium gold color, a mineral and slightly fruity nose, with green gooseberry and mineral flavors; medium plus acidity with a tart finish.

2015 Riesling, Classic, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Eisenbach-Korn (Oberheimbach): A dry white wine with medium plus gold color, a spicy, nose with hints of turpentine and lipstick; with spicy and fruity flavors, medium acidity with a smooth, but tart finish; very well balanced overall.

2013 Weisser Riesling, Niederheimbacher Froher Weingarten, Qualitaetswein, trocken, Fendel: A dry white wine with a medium gold color: a well-balanced, slightly floral and fruity tasting wine with a pleasant minerality to it.