To many wine lovers, the Middle Rhine means exceptional Riesling. To me, the lower Moselle means scenery that is just as dramatic, in a region that is far quieter, with Riesling that is just as good. All that adds up to a wonderful vacation in the heart of one of Germany’s most well-known wine regions.

One of the great things about the Moselle valley is that most towns are all connected by a rail system on the left bank. Hence, going from Koblenz (on the Rhine), upriver to Trier, is both convenient and relatively inexpensive. I began in Lehmen, and hiked, on a variety of paths to Loef, where I spent the night. While I had completed hikes in Hatzenport (just one village away upriver), and another in Winningen, a few miles downriver, I found this short stretch of the valley particularly attractive. Not only were there several hiking trails to choose from (see the accompanying Nutshell here), the scenery was striking, the restaurants very good, and the Rieslings delicious, for less than many comparable Middle Rhine wines.

The trails start in the villages along the river, and climb steeply up the cliffs behind them. Due to the steepness of the slopes, the vineyards are small and steep, only rising to a certain point. Above them is forested area, and between it and further above, the trail runs, sometimes narrow and twisting over rock and tree roots, with clear views up and down the valley.

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