Because I sometimes wonder whether I appreciate wine enough, innumerable tastings notwithstanding, I will occasionally take the time to hike multiple stages of some of the longer European wine trails. That is the case with the Via dei Terrazzamenti (Terrace Way) in Italy’s Valtellina wine region. Set just south of Switzerland in the Lombardy province, this Alpine region is as awesome as it is daunting. I appreciate a physical challenge, and while the trail is not as difficult as it could be, given the rugged nature of the terroir, there are literally several breath-taking ascents. These sometimes seem to climb endlessly, but rejoice in it: the higher the climb the more expansive the views. Then there are the descents that will leave your legs feeling it.
Strung together like a string of pearls, the vineyards of Valtellina occupy terraces along south-facing mountainsides in this spectacular Italian wine region. The vineyards climb vertiginously away from towns along the Adda River, up to villages clinging to the side of the mountain.
Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained, with a hard-packed, but occasionally uneven surface throughout, usually there is good marking on the trail, but it tends to disappear in villages and towns.
Length:
Total: 70 kilometers/43 miles (Morbegno – Tirano)
Mine: 14 kilometers/8.5 miles (Chiuro – Ponchiera)
Convenient to: Sondrio, or Tirano, Lombardy, Italy
Marking:
Words “Via dei Terrazzamenti” on a white background with a four-leafed clover design inside; sometimes associated with a metal yellow arrow.
White over red horizontal bars indicate a hiking trail generically
Note: The photo below shows all of the above, with the addition of an extra sign on the yellow arrow, (with a number thirty), indicating a different trail as well.
I immediately resolved to visit the village of Vignale Monferrato, and wander its vineyards, on my premier trip to the Monferrato district in northern Italy. I first saw the vineyards and the village while hiking in 2016 through the Malvasia vines of nearby Casorzo. Rounding a prominence, I spied distant vineyards circling a steep hill capped by a compact village. Capping the village itself is an impressive parish church, with the most expansive view imaginable of the Monferrato from its side-yard.
Monferrato: View from the Top of Vignale
It took a while, but I finally got there in late May of 2019. (Little did I know then that I would not return to Italy for a little over two years now.) But the wait then was worth it, as the experience of the village and the hike was fantastic. The food and wine were outstanding of course, this being the Piedmont.
Trail Name: Toerggeleweg Villanders/Villandro (AKA Toerggelesteig) (See comment below)
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; somewhat maintained, mostly rough surfaces outside built-up areas, sometimes spotty marking on the trail.
Length:
Total – approximately 8.5 kilometers/ 5.25 miles
Convenient to: Klausen/Chiusa, Bozen/Bolzano, or Brixen/Bressanone, Suedtirol/Alto Adige, Italy
Marking: Partly along the Keschtnweg/Sentiero del Castagno (chestnut outlined in black on a white background), partly along the Toerggeleweg (AKA Toerggelesteig) bunch of grapes outlined in black on a white background; In Italy in general, horizontal white and red rectangles, either in isolation or with a trail name or symbol, indicate you are on a hiking trail.
Keschtn/Castagno Trail Marking
Toerggelesteig Signage
Trail Description: Beginning in a village, this circuit trail passes through a nice variety of woodland, meadow and vineyard landscapes, while providing fantastic views of the majestic Dolomite peaks in the Odle Group. While slightly more challenging than some vineyard hikes on account of the rougher trail surfaces (in places), numerous ascents and descents, and generally steeper terrain, it is suitable for most moderately fit hikers.
Trailhead: Villanders: Kirche Sankt Michael/San Michele, Vicolo Franz v. Defregger (by Hotel Ansitz zum Steinbock)
Parking:
Villanders: Unterdorf, a medium-sized lot (behind and below the townhall/tourism office)
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: Regular service from Brixen (to the north) or Bozen (to the south) to Klausen
Bus: Service from Klausen to Villanders is available through Verkehrsverbund Suedtirol, the 345/ Villandro-Chiusa line. Information may be found (as of June 2020) at www.suedtirolmobil.info.
Suggested Stages: Not applicable
Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)
Villanders: Center of Villanders (Unterdorf x Hofstatt)’ Path below Kirche Sankt Michael/San Michele, Fussweg St Stefano-Gravetsch, briefly on St Valentin; cross the creek; woods, Erzweg, Johannser (settlement), cross creek lower down; Sankt Valentin/San Valentino: Am Erzweg/Via alle Miniere, Landestrasse/SP 87, past a chapel; Bodenacker: Past some houses, onto Toerggelesteig path, downhill then uphill through woods; Oberstattleitner compound; Unter St Stefan/St. Stefano: Past the Ober- and Unter- Furner compounds; Sauders: past a church; Kirchsteig path (blue and white signs), Villanders: Hofstatt, toward town center (Ortsmitte)
Representative Trail Photos:
Representative Trail Section Through MeadowsRepresentative Trail Section Through Forest
Restrooms:
Villanders/Villandro: In the Cemetery, in the hillside above the graves
Villanders/Villandro: Down behind the town hall complex, by the sports fields
Attractions on or near Trail: None (except the scenery!)
Tasting along the Trail:
Look for Toerggele or Buschenschank, especially in Sauders and nearby Oberfurner and Oberpartegg, and hotel restaurants in Villanders center.
The regional cooperative is on the outskirts of Klausen.
Alternative Options:
Hiking: Lots of hiking trails, naturally, but only the other Toerggelesteig trails in Klausen, Feldthurns and Barbian (see comment below), and the Leitach-Chiusa Sentiero del Vino (a 4.5 km circuit), are wine-themed trails.
In addition to Villanders, nearby Klausen/Chiusa, Barbian/Barbiano and Feldthurns/Velturno also have Toerggelesteig trails, especially popular during new wine season in the autumn. This may account for a number of trails in the area being marked on some maps as “Toerggelesteig,” which exceed the scope of the Villanders circuit described above.
Winding down the side of the mountain, from a basilica through the vines to the wines of Schioppettino di Prepotto, is what this hike was all about in a nutshell.
But the sum of a hike is more than its trailheads. In this case, the trailheads themselves were impressive. The first, (or possibly the second if following the trail uphill) is the Sanctuary of Castelmonte. Visible for miles from below, with views for miles from up top, the site has deep layers of history and archeology as far back as the Iron Age. But today’s sanctuary has served as a prominent pilgrimage church for this corner of the Province of Udine in northeastern Italy since about the sixth century. However, what is visible now dates to even later than that. Architectural magnificence aside, the site itself is dramatically sited and gorgeous.
