Tag Archives: hiking German vineyard trails

Wine Notes: Mittelhaardt

 

What I Learned

Germany’s Pfalz wine region is divided into two parts, the northern district of Mittelhaardt/Deutsche Weinstrasse, and the Suedliche Weinstrasse which is located south of Neustadt an der Weinstrasse. This entire region produces both red and white wines, with white wines making up approximately two-thirds of the overall annual production.

The Mittelhaardt/Deutsche Weinstrasse district runs along the Haardt mountains, facing east on gentle slopes in the optimal rain and wind shadow formed by the mountains covered by the majestic trees of the Pfaelzer Wald forest. This district, which begins in Bockenheim and continues to south of Neustadt, is in one of the warmest and sunniest regions of Germany. It contains towns and villages famous for their wines, as well as their lively wine festivals. Bad Duerkheim, with its Wurstmarkt in September, Neustadt with its Weinlese festival, in October, are two of the most famous wine festivals in Germany.

Continue reading Wine Notes: Mittelhaardt

Pfaelzer Weinsteig: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Pfaelzer Weinsteig

Trail Type:

Long distance trail; well-maintained albeit with some rougher stretches along the segments through the forest and hills, naturally, marking on the trail very good overall

Length:

Total – 185 Kilometers/114 miles

Stage 4: 20 kilometers/12.5 miles (Deidesheim to Neustadt an der Weinstrasse)

My segment*- 7.5 kilometers/ miles (Train station, Deidesheim to Gimmeldingen)

Convenient to:

Bad Duerkheim or Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany

Marking:

Red and white square, with white grapes on red background, trail name in red and white letters, alternatively simply red over white stripes

Signage Pfaelzer Weinsteig

Continue reading Pfaelzer Weinsteig: Trail in a Nutshell

Remembering Ahrtal

 

I remember the Ahrtal and its wines.  As evident below the photograph, the trail I hiked in May 2018 passed through an area filled with quiet charm and natural beauty, known for full-bodied red wine. Unfortunately, the area is now known for the epic July 2021 floods. Raging waters devastated town after town along the trail. Lives were tragically lost. The vintners lost not only this year’s harvest, old vines, and the work of decades, many also lost even the wines in their cellars. The human cost in suffering and loss of lives has been enormous. As a reminder of life, loss, and love of the area, I republish this series of posts with best wishes for recovery, in all its senses.

Wiki: Altenahr Flood, by Martin Seifert

Continue reading Remembering Ahrtal

Rotweinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Rotweinwanderweg (Red Wine Hiking Trail)

Trail Type: Long distance; surface footing is all hard, be it on tarmac or hardpacked earth or stair-steps; very well maintained, and extremely well-marked.

Length:

Total: 35.5 kilometers / 22 miles

My segment: Altenahr to Marienthal (@15 kilometers / 9 miles)

Convenient to: Bonn, Germany

Marking: Red grapes on a white background

Rotweinwanderweg Signage

Continue reading Rotweinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

Rhein Reben Route: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Rhein Reben Route (Rhine Grapes Route)

Trail Type: Mid-distance trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard surfaces, no trail-specific marking for this trail, although there are the standard directional and distance (or time) markers.

Length:

Total –  13.5 kilometers/8.4 miles

Convenient to: Schaffhausen, or Zurich, Switzerland

Marking: No trail-specific signage. Directional signs only follow (See comments below)

Examples of German Directional Signs

 

Examples of Swiss Directional Signs and Trail Markings

 

Trail Description:

Following mostly along the Rhine River’s edge in a little-known corner of Germany and Switzerland, this very easy trail, with only two short but somewhat steep inclines, offers variety in the landscape, tranquil scenery, and often shady paths.

Trailheads:

Jestetten, Germany: Saarstr (x Bahnhof) (start)

Buchberg, Switzerland: Dorfstr (end)

Parking:

Jestetten, Germany: Bahnhofstr (by station)

Buchberg, Switzerland: by the church

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: S9, Schaffhausen-Jestetten-Uster, stops in Rafz, (about 4 kilometers distant, but the closest to Buchberg)

Bus: Zurcher Verkehrsverbund, (ZVV), runs a frequent and direct bus service to Rafz on ZVV Bus 675

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (North-South/Upriver-Downriver)

Jestetten, Germany: Saarstr, Altenburger Str, Im See; Cross the Volkenbach; through woods and fields; Lottstetten: Cross Weiherweg, Balmerstr, along river (and mostly through wooded terrain) for a while; Ruedlingen: past parking lot on river; cross Rafzerstr, past water treatment plant, Chratzeren, Hinterdorfstr, Sustenstr, Schuelwegli; vineyards, Buchberg, Switzerland: vineyards, Church, Dorfstr

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample of Trail Through Woods by the River
Sample Section of Incline (Buchberg)
Trail by the Roman Bridge

 

Restrooms:

Jestetten, Germany: Bahnhofstr x Saarstr, by the station

Ruedlingen, Switzerland: Chratzeren, at the water treatment facility

Attractions on or near Trail:

Tasting along the Trail: Café Rebe, Buchberg, Dorfstr 22; Besen-Beiz, Buchberg, Lindenhof (after 4 Apr 19)

Alternative Options:

Bike: Rhein-Route 2, Stage 7 (Schaffhausen to Bad Zurzach), a 53-kilometers (33 miles) bicycle itinerary covers this territory and more, following mostly along the Rhine River.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://schaffhauserland.ch/en/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/wanderung/schwarzwald/rhein-reben-route-im-naturpark-schaffhausen/20734468/

Comments:

An option to cross the river by a small ferry is possible opposite Nack. (Look for the bell to ring to summon the ferry from the far side of the river.) There are not one, but two, water-side eateries there to slack the thirst and sate the hunger of hikers, bikers and boaters!

In Switzerland, instead of distance, the required time is usually indicated. (And in my experience, represents a healthy pace.)

 

Dark Days, December Delights

 

December again – the month of short, dark, often rainy or snowy days.  The hikes in Germany and Alsace in December are necessarily short due to limited daylight hours, and unmitigated fog which rarely lifts before noon. I can look forward to winter hikes in Germany and Alsace though because of the abundance of cheerfully lit Christmas Markets – a wonderful way to dispel the cold and dark, and embrace the joy of the season.

Noon: Winter Solstice in Metzingen

 

This hike, done at noon on the shortest day of the year, was not too far from the old university town of Tuebingen, which has its own Christmas Market. It was in the vineyard areas of Metzingen, in the hills above the town. This is not far from the Neckar Valley region, before the Neckar meanders through Stuttgart. Nonetheless, there is a very rural feel to this town, and the surrounding countryside forms part of the Schwaebische Alb, a hilly/mountainous region in southern Germany set between the upper Neckar, and the young Danube rivers.

Dettlingen and the Schwaebische Alb

 

However, the vine-covered hills on the edge of Metzingen are not very high, and hard-packed surfaces traverse the wide slopes. This makes the itinerary to the top suitable for families with young and old alike, and those looking for an easy stretch of the legs. (Be sure to follow the itinerary, which is counterclockwise because the descent is more direct, hence a bit steeper.) The whole Weinerlebnisweg Metzingen-Neuhausen trail may be completed in an hour or so; a bit longer if you read the wine-education boards along the way, and take some time to enjoy the benches, and even a hammock, from which hikers have wide panoramic views of the area south and west.

Shelter and Hammock

 

Another nice feature of this trail is that it connects with a sister trail, the Weinerlebnisweg Metzingen, via a connecting loop. (The top half heads out from, the bottom half leads to, the trailhead in Metzingen-Neuhausen.) The two parts of the loop segment are a nice addition. They provide scenic variety, as much of this loop passes through a saddle between the vineyards of Metzingen and Metzingen-Neuhausen. Instead of vines, fruit trees, nut trees and fields predominate here. The trail passes over the little Spalerbach creek before it enters Metzingen.

Spanning the Creek

 

The Weinerlebnis Metzingen is similar in design to the Weinerlebnisweg Metzingen-Neuhausen trail in that it traverses the vineyard slope outside Metzingen. There is an added attraction here though. While vintner huts were conspicuous by their absence on the earlier trail, here they are found in abundance. These little huts serve as storage and shelter in bad weather. Often decorated a bit, they are unique and individualized contributions to the scenery along the trail.

Vintners’ Huts Overlooking Metzingen

 

Although I didn’t do it, shortly after the Metzingen Weinerlebnisweg Parkplatz (parking area), once at the bottom of the vineyard, a quick dogleg right, then left onto Neuffener Strasse, continuing beneath the under pass to Nuertinger Strasse, will lead to the Stadthalle and the nearby Kelternplatz. The town has carefully maintained this square devoted to Metzingen’s wine-making history. It is filled with seven half-timbered structures that formerly contained huge wine presses. Now, these building contain, among other things, a vinothek, a wine-museum, a wine-makers house and opportunities to buy or taste the local wines. I visited this square on a previous visit and can say that it is worth a detour. (See the Nutshell here for more information.)

After passing through the Metzingen vineyards, the trail rejoins the connecting loop’s lower part. From there to my start point in Metzingen-Neuhausen, it was a pleasant, albeit very easy, walk, which I completed in the short time that spanned the lifting of morning fog, and the falling of evening’s darkness. While it may not have been a challenging trail in any sense, it was a great local itinerary that drew attention to the centuries old tradition of wine-making in Metzingen and Metzingen-Neuhausen.

 

Weinerlebnisweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Weinerlebnisweg (Metzingen und Neuhausen)

Trail Type: Two short distance circuits conjoined by a third circuit between them; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, a form of marking/signage is along parts of the trail

Length: 8.3 km/5 miles

Convenient to: Tuebingen or Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany

Marking:

Alternate red and green squares (often on tall posts) mark learning points along the trail, although these do not necessarily point the way to the next point.

Marker on the Weinerlebnis Trail Metzingen-Neuhausen

 

Trail Description: A relatively easy itinerary up and down hills and dales, with learning boards, rest stops and scenic lookouts along the way, through agricultural and woodland settings, above a moderately urbanized area.

Trailheads:

Kelternstrasse, Neuhausen (for the Metzingen-Neuhausen circuit)

Am Gruenen Haeusle, Metzingen (for the Metzingen circuit)

Parking:

Kelternstrasse, Metzingen-Neuhausen (for the Metzingen-Neuhausen circuit)

Elsa-Braendstroem-Strasse (30), Metzingen (for the Metzingen circuit)

(Both are right on the trail)

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: DB ‘s (Deutsche Bahn) regional trains conveniently connect Metzingen with Tuebingen and Stuttgart

Suggested Stages:

Hikers can choose to complete one circuit, (such as the Neuhausen circuit for approximately 3.25 kilometers/2 miles), then return another day to complete the Metzingen circuit, which is just a bit shorter.

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Metzingen-Neuhausen: End of Kelternstrasse, follow the uphill path into the vineyards, take the path to the right, and follow along the vines (you will see education boards along the way), turn left, uphill, to a rest hut with a hammock, and follow back along the hillside, climb up to the Hofbuehl sign, follow a yellow circle over a foot bridge to the Hofbuehlbrunnen (a fountain), to Steinerweg; Metzingen: Through vineyards, to the parking spots on Elsa-Braendstroem-Strasse, turn left, downhill and curve around left to follow along the lower vineyards above Metzingen, back onto Steinerweg, and downhill, curving southeast to the start point in Metzingen-Neuhausen

Representative Trail Photos:

Trail Segment

 

Trail Segment in the Vineyards

 

Trail Section through Fields and Orchards

 

Restrooms: None observed!

Attractions on or near Trail:

Metzingen: On Kelternplatz there is a collection of half-timbered buildings formerly housing old wine presses, a museum dedicated to wine-making in the area, a Winemakers House, and a vinothek and wine bar.

Tasting along the Trail:

The local cooperative WGS (Winzergenossenschaft) Metzingen-Neuhausen is on Kelternplatz, Metzingen

The Wengerterhaeusle (“Winemakers House” listed above) offers regular public wine tasting events. Check the events schedule (“Veranstaltungen”) at https://weinbaumuseum-metzingen.de/

Alternative Options:

Biking: The 353 kilometers/219 miles-long Wuerttemberger Weinradweg passes through Metzingen. The southern portion often follows along the Neckar River, one of Germany’s wine rivers, before heading east and north at Heilbronn. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.schwaebischealb.de/

Trail specific: https://www.metzingen.de/willkommen

Comments:

The connecting circuit between the two wine circuits adds a total of about 2 kilometers to whichever circuit is hiked.