Tag Archives: hiking French vineyard trails
Uniquely Special in Alsace
There’s the Abbey of Truttenhausen, the Roseraie (Rose Garden), the Bear Fountain, and the famous (-for what, I don’t know-) Linden tree. All count among Heiligenstein’s attractions. I, however, was attracted to the grape vines. In Heiligenstein (and neighboring villages), the grape is the Savagnin rose, unique in Alsace. Heiligenstein’s vintners produce a special wine from this grape known as Klevener de Heiligenstein, a special aromatic wine reminiscent of Gewuerztraminer.
Fortunately, Heiligenstein has a number of hiking itineraries (and cycling itineraries) that pass through its vineyards. I selected one, a circuit, and computed the time I needed to finish before the wineries closed and the winter sun set behind the mountains. Mount Saint Odile lies to the west of the village. While only half the height of the tallest peak in the Vosges range, it rises sufficiently abruptly from the small town to form a protective barrier from the wind and cold.
Thus, on a late February afternoon, the trail conditions were snow and ice free, even if it had been a bit rainy. No games or practices that day (maybe rain delays?), so the parking lot at the sports field was empty. Thus, it was a quiet start heading toward the mountain, but not a gloomy one. Rays of sun occasionally poked out from behind the clouds. Bright green was everywhere, even in winter, watered by the springs and rivulets that bubbled and burbled from the mountain side.
Approaching the area of Truttenhausen, signs to the Abbey appeared. Now in ruins, it is one of a couple of abbeys or chapels that developed on the slopes of Mount Saint Odile, a special place for a special saint from Alsace – one of their own who lived in this area about 1400 years ago. Her massive convent atop the mountain, with a statue of the saint high above it, casts a protective eye over much of northern Alsace. (Worth a visit for the 360 degree views.) While my trail was significantly lower down the slope, the views across the Rhine River valley over to Germany were still awesome nonetheless.
It wasn’t until after passing the famous landmark of the Linden of Heiligenstein, that the true extent of the town’s vineyards revealed itself. For beneath the tree-covered slopes of Mount Sainte Odile, vineyards extend downhill, toward the east and southeast for an impressive distance, until they adjoin the grain and vegetable fields of flatter lands to the east.
Following the circuit below the town placed me amidst acres of vines. Many plots have names, often they are (or were) enclosed. Many of the clos of Alsace are famous. One here was partially enclosed, but it never was famous, although it was obviously beloved by the local vintners at one point. Clos are special places where the grapes are particularly valued, hence protected by walls. Who knows – perhaps this is the plot where the grapes for the wine destined for the Bishop of Strasbourg, only 20 kilometers (about 12 miles) distant, grew. (Several towns, on both sides of the Rhine, owed an annual amount of wine to the Bishop of Strasbourg. Heiligenstein was just one of them.)
At the end of the circuit, I was less than half a kilometer from a few family-owned wineries. But it was necessary to jog to them to ensure I arrived before closing time. Unfortunately, there never seems to be enough time to enjoy wine! And unique wines like Klevener de Heiligenstein need both time and a special, objective perspective to savor them.
Wine Notes: Klevener de Heiligenstein
What I Learned
In 1742, Ehrhardt Wantz, mayor of the small village of Heiligenstein in Alsace, brought some Savagnin Rose vines from Italy. Descended from the Traminer grape (Gewuerztraminer), which also came originally from Italy, these grapes were planted in Heiligenstein and subsequently in some surrounding villages (Gertwiller, among them). Currently a dozen or so vintners work with this varietal. Supplanted then as now in many respects by the Gewuerztraminer, it has a subtler aroma and flavor profile, and is less well-known. It finally obtained Appellation Alsace Klevener d’Heiligenstein Controlee status in 1971. (Reference: Alsace Habsiger Domaine website: https://www.domaine-habsiger.fr/#klevener)
Heiligenstein does not have any Grands Crus, although it does have some well-sited vineyards, favored with good slope and sun and wind exposure, along with vintners passionate about creating their wines. Subtle, yet aromatic, the unique Klevener de Heiligenstein wine truly deserves its appellation status.
What I Tasted
2017 Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Cuvee Numero 1, Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Domaine Charles Boch (Heiligenstein): A dry white wine with medium yellow gold color; a floral and pear nose, with strong floral and mineral flavors, with a hint of green fruit, medium minus acidity.
2017 Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Cuvee Tentation, Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Domaine Charles Boch (Heiligenstein): A dry white wine with pale, white gold color; floral and spice nose, with honey, spice, toasted nuts and floral flavors; medium minus acidity.
2016 Klevener de Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Kleinbuhr: A dry white wine with medium plus yellow gold color; a floral nose with hints of turpentine (as in reminiscent of Riesling); spice, floral (rose) and nutty flavors; medium plus acidity, with a smooth finish.
2016 Klevener d’Heiligenstein (Savagnin), Appellation d’Alsace Controlee, Maison Alsace Habsiger (Gertwiller): A dry white wine with medium gold color; slight floral nose, with honey, floral, mineral and very slight exotic fruits flavors; medium acidity.
Klevener de Heiligenstein: Trail in a Nutshell
Trail Name: Klevener de Heiligenstein
Trail Type: A short distance circuit; well-maintained and much of it paved or hard-pack, marking on the trail varies.
Length:
Total – 7.5 kilometers/ 4.7 miles
Convenient to: Barr, Alsace, France
Marking:
Varied, and none specific to the circuit
Trail Description: A delightful short trail, easily done, which covered vineyards and town, and gave distant views of the Black Forest in Germany and Alsatian landscapes near and far. As it was in a sheltered, and lower position, this itinerary presented no problems in the winter with snow or ice.
Trailhead:
Heiligenstein: Sports field, R. Principale/D35
Parking:
Heiligenstein on the north end of the main road, R. Principale/D35, on the north edge of town, by the Sports Field
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: SNCF Trains from Strasbourg service nearby Gertwiller. From that station, the southern-most point of the trail is about 1 kilometer distant. (The station in Barr is a bit further, but also larger.)
Suggested Stages:
Not applicable
Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)
Heiligenstein: R. Principale/D35, R. (du) Kritt, R. des Chateaux; Truttenhausen: Kiosk and Hering Monument, Chemin du Moenkalb, past the Tilleul du Moenkalb (a famous linden tree); R. du Weinberg; vineyards, than an unimproved path downhill to cross R. Principale/D35; pass north of Domaine Bachert; through vineyards and fields, @100 yds on Saint Simonsbrunnen, go right onto small paved path, follow to T intersection, cross R Ehret Wantz; dogleg left, then first right to follow the winding road for about 400 meters/1250 feet, then rightat the Y intersection; take second left to return to sports field on D35 (see Lookout Point by the Sports Field),
Representative Trail Photos:
Restrooms:
Heiligenstein: R. Principale, behind the Mairie
Attractions on or near Trail:
None wine-related, other than the wineries!
Tasting along the Trail:
A few wineries on or near the trail that specialize in this varietal, and then other as well nearby.
Alternative Options:
Biking: Klevener et Pain d’Epice, a 32 kilometer/ 20 mile cycling circuit in this region. See https://www.alsaceavelo.fr/403000071-bl214-klevener-et-pain-depices/
Car: Heiligenstein is one of dozens of villages on the Route des Vins D’Alsace, almost 180 kilometers of car-touring route focused on Alsatian wines and through Alsatian vineyards.
Additional Information:
Regional: https://www.visit.alsace/
Trail specific:
https://apps.tourisme-alsace.info/photos/cdcbarr/photos/213000384_d1.pdf
Comments:
A peaceful village, in one of the least travelled sections of the Route des Vins d’Alsace, cultivating a varietal that is unique in France.
Gallery October 2023
A New Castle Makes New Wine From Old
In the early 14th century, a Pope decided to make a new residence (his Chateauneuf, or New Castle) in the countryside a few miles north of Avignon. The intent was to use this as a summer residence, away from the noise and heat of Avignon. Vines have been in this area, around what is now the village of Chateauneuf du Pape, for at least a couple of millennia. The wine it produced, though, was not particularly good. But with papal money and interest, the wine improved greatly over time. Nowadays, Chateauneuf du Pape wine is one of the most iconic wines of the world.
So, with great enthusiasm, I headed to the village to hike an easy trail through its vineyards, try its wines, and see its “New Castle”.
To be honest – the vineyards make the trip worthwhile here. They surround the village completely. This trail passed through the vineyards to the east of the village. My first surprise was seeing the galets. I had heard of them, of course. These stones both help keep weeds down, and help retain the sun’s heat (from day into night). But seeing them on the ground, and appreciating their size and texture, was another thing altogether. In one place, they were several deep on the ground, looking like so many harvested Russet potatoes, still lying in the field. (Caution: It makes for slow(er) walking.) Later, I came to a cut in a bank, and the layers were visible in the soil for at least a couple of feet!
Another thing to notice along this trail, is the number of different vine pruning/training techniques. Usually you will see one, maybe two, types of pruning. But here, they even had the Gobelet (vines shaped like a goblet), in addition to the Guyot and the Cordon de Royat. This and other interesting tidbits of information about the terroir and the viticultural practices here may be found on education boards all along the trail. (While the trail’s boards are only in French, a brochure from the tourism office (https://en.chateauneuf.com/le-sentier-viticole) provides explanations for each board in French and English.)
Finally, I noticed that this was an undulating land – more than I had expected or realized at first. With each rise and fall of a slope, around each turn of a vineyard or hedge row, I had a different long distance view. Sometimes Chateauneuf du Pape would disappear from view completely. Other times, I found myself facing the white slopes of Mount Ventoux. Cresting another slope, my old haunts the Alpilles, by Vacqueyras and Gigondas, magically appeared. Yet, I never saw the Rhone River, although the village lies not too far from it.
After I passed through the section of vineyards known as the Crau (which means stone in Provencal – per the board), I followed the trail through a wooded section. It provides the only shade for hikers on this itinerary, and is welcome, as it immediately precedes the final section of the trail, a walk along the road back to the starting point on the outskirts of the village
To return to the car, I had to walk back through the village. For such a famous wine, the village was fairly small, (and the tourism infrastructure even smaller). Its castle is a mere ruin, albeit a highly photographed one. Nonetheless, it was exciting to visit the place that may be called the birthplace of the Appellation d’Origine Controlee system, and home to former Popes and famous vineyards. Then, of course, there is the wine – in so many wineries, so many shops – to explore!
Wine Notes: Chateauneuf du Pape
What I Learned
Located in the Southern Rhone wine region of France, Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the world’s most iconic French wines. It has historically been one of France’s most exclusive wines. Since the days of the Popes at Avignon, this wine over time improved, until it became one of the most sought after wines in Europe. Nearby, and even not so near-by wine-makers began to capitalize on its fame, and labelled their own wines “Chateauneuf du Pape.” Indignant Chateauneuf du Pape villagers lobbied the national assembly to pass a law, thus inspiring the Appellation d’Origine Controlee system.
The wines themselves (both red and white) are blends. Traditionally, up to thirteen grapes (both red and white) may be used in the red blend, although most wine-makers rely on fewer than that, and most use at least some Grenache. Other red grape varietals often include another Rhone Valley favorite Syrah, and Southern Rhone stand-ins Mourvedre and Cinsault.
White Chateauneuf du Pape wines are more difficult to find because less than ten percent of the total Chateauneuf du Pape wine production is white wine. No red varietals are allowed in the white wines, leaving the winemakers only six varietals, among them the Grenache Blanc, the Southern Rhone valley perennials Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul.
Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards are also famous for their galets. Rounded stones brought down by the Rhone over eons, they cover the vineyards in many places. Imagine stones akin to Russet potatoes strewn throughout the vineyards! They serve the practical function of reducing weeds, and catching the heat of the sun by day, releasing it at night.
What I Tasted
2015 Le P’tit Plaisir, Vin de France, Domaine Eddie Feraud: A dry white wine cuvee (Grenache, Clairette, Muscat) with medium minus gold color, spice, wood and slight floral nose, with vanilla, floral and slight wood flavors, medium acidity, smooth overall.
2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A dry white wine with a medium yellow gold color; mineral and floral nose, along with vanilla and toasted nuts flavors; medium acidity, with a very suave mouth feel and very smooth finish.
2014 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A very dry red wine with dark minus garnet color; tobacco and red cherry nose with herbal and spicy notes, slight leather and cherry flavors, with notes of smoke, and cedar; medium tannins, very dry, with a smooth finish ending on a wisp of smoke.
2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Tradition, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau de la Gardine: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of spice, smoke, stewed plums, with flavors of leather, smoke, stewed red fruits; medium plus tannins, long finish.
2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau Mont-Redon: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of leather and spice, blackberry, vanilla and oak flavors; medium tannins with a smooth finish.
Escapade au Coeur du Vignoble: Trail in a Nutshell
Trail Name: Escapade au Coeur du Vignoble de Chateauneuf du Pape
Trail Type: an easy short distance circuit; well-maintained and almost about half paved, and half rough, trail surface; marking on the trail is ok, but take a map.
Length:
Total – 7.5 kilometers/4.6 miles
Convenient to:
Avignon or Orange, France
Marking:
Small maroon colored square with the Chateauneuf coat of arms (occasionally), and (15) education boards
Trail Description:
A pleasant, but mostly unshaded, itinerary through parts of the famous vineyard area of Chateauneuf du Pape, providing great views, tips on local viticultural practices, and fun for the whole family (providing you wear sturdy footwear!).
Trailhead:
Chateauneuf du Pape: Avenue Louis Pasteur
Parking:
In the center of the village, not much, but there is more
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: None, but the closest stations are in Orange, Courthezon or Sorgues, all on the Orange to Avignon line. Check https://www.sncf.com/fr
Bus: Buses on the Route Orange-Sorgues, on Line 922
Suggested Stages:
Not applicable
Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:
Chateauneuf du Pape: Avenue Louis Pasteur-Chemin de la Font du Pape, to the first educative panel, through vineyards to Chemin de la Coste Froide, Chemin de la Montalivet (a narrow track), Chemin de la Nerthe, (turning onto a narrow track called Chemin Draille de la Crau, circling the vineyards of Charbonnieres Est, stair-stepping back west to Chemin de Charbonnieres, onto Route de Courthezon, then right onto a track to rejoin the original trail passing along a small wood, vineyards, then through woods back onto Chemin de la Montalivet; left onto Route de Courthezon/D92, following it back into the village
Representative Trail Photos:
Restrooms:
None observed
Attractions on or near Trail:
Chateauneuf du Pape, Avenue Saint-Pierre de Luxembourg: Musee du Vin Brotte, offers audio-guided tours, and a wine tasting.
Tasting along the Trail:
Both in the village and along the trail there are plenty of wineries to choose from!
Alternative Options:
Hiking: Chateauneuf du Pape and its Environments is a 10.8 km circuit route that has more elevation, and covers a wider variety of scenery, from village to river, as well as through vineyards. See https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-chateauneuf-du-pape-et-son-environnement/
Biking: From the Antique Stones of Orange, to the Galets (River Stones) of Chateauneuf du Pape, a challenging 35 kilometer circuit, beginning in Orange, famous for its Roman theater and other ruins, to Chateauneuf du Pape, some of which follows the well-known Via Rhona bike trail (from Lyon). See https://www.provence-cycling.co.uk/equipment/orange/cycle-route-from-the-stone-to-the-pebbly-terroir/provence-713016-2.html
Additional Information:
Regional: https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/chateauneuf-du-pape-33685/tourist-office-chateauneuf-pape-7166.htm ; and more specifically for this area https://www.poptourisme.fr/
Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-route/france/sentier-viticole-chateauneuf-du-pape/266646253/
Comments:
This route leads past 15 numbered education boards about vineyards and winemaking, in order.
The trail is designed with short-cuts (shorter versions), or an extension (longer version) (at or near sign 10, ) to the Charbonnieres Est and the Crau vineyard areas, which adds about 2 km, (1.25 miles) to make it about 7.5 kilometers in total.