Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Durch Die Weinberge: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Kappelrodeck – Durch die Weinberge (Through the Vineyards)

Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit itinerary; well-maintained, and on mostly paved or even, hard-packed surfaces; marking on the trail is directional to the next itinerary point and not specific or exclusive to this itinerary.

Length:

Total – 10 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Baden-Baden or Karlsruhe, Germany

Marking: None specific to the trail, but a series of sign posts will indicate the way to the next one along the itinerary (See itinerary below).

Weinberge Itinerary Signage

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Hiking, Italy

Hiking Valtellina’s Vineyards II

 

Because I sometimes wonder whether I appreciate wine enough, innumerable tastings notwithstanding, I will occasionally take the time to hike multiple stages of some of the longer European wine trails. That is the case with the Via dei Terrazzamenti (Terrace Way) in Italy’s Valtellina wine region. Set just south of Switzerland in the Lombardy province, this Alpine region is as awesome as it is daunting. I appreciate a physical challenge, and while the trail is not as difficult as it could be, given the rugged nature of the terroir, there are literally several breath-taking ascents. These sometimes seem to climb endlessly, but rejoice in it: the higher the climb the more expansive the views. Then there are the descents that will leave your legs feeling it.

Straight Up Shooting, from the Trail

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Italy, Wines

Wine Notes: Italy’s Valtellina II

 

What I Learned

While the Valtellina wine region is not the northernmost wine producing area in Italy, its grapes grow at altitudes of over 760 meters (2500 feet). The terrain here is dominated by mountains: rocky, incredibly steep, subject to sudden changes in weather from the north.

The classification system in Valtellina, like the appellation controlee system in France, is based on geography. In Valtellina, there are five recognized areas of cultivation of the Chiavennasca grape (known as Nebbiolo in the Piedmont). These five areas are distinct micro zones of terroirs and traditions, each with its own history, and each with its own Chiavennasca wine.  Visiting each area, and sampling their wines, provides an excellent opportunity to explore the different expressions of Chiavennasca as vinified in Valtellina.

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Hiking, Italy, Nutshell

Trail in a Nutshell: Via dei Terrazzamenti II

 

Trail Name:  Via dei Terrazzamenti (Terrace Way)

Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained, with a hard-packed, but occasionally uneven, surface; usually good marking on the trail

Length:

Total: 70 kilometers/43 miles (Morbegno – Tirano)

Mine: 14 kilometers/8.5 miles

Convenient to: Sondrio, or Tirano, Lombardy, Italy

Marking:

The words Via dei Terrazzamenti, accompanied by a logo resembling a four-leaf clover on a yellow arrow; sometimes the same logo is on a white bar over red bar rectangular sign (See the featured photo above, and the photo below.)

Via dei Terrazzamenti Trail Marker

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Hiking, Italy

Valtellina Vineyards I

 

Strung together like a string of pearls, the vineyards of Valtellina occupy terraces along south-facing mountainsides in this spectacular Italian wine region. The vineyards climb vertiginously away from towns along the Adda River, up to villages clinging to the side of the mountain.

From the Adda to Montagna in Valtellina

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Italy, Wines

Wine Notes: Italy’s Valtellina I

 

What I Learned

Italy is famous for its for wines, especially powerful, refined reds such as Tuscany’s Brunello, Valpolicella’s Amarones, and Piedmont’s Barolo and Barbaresco wines. The Valtellina region of Lombardy, Italy, also produces well-regarded, powerfully flavorful, red wines, and made from the same varietal that produces Barolo and Barbaresco. It also produces wine in a process similar to Valpolicella’s Amarones. Lovers of such powerful reds will find Valtellina’s DOCG red wines delicious and a good value for the money.

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Hiking, Italy, Nutshell

Trail in a Nutshell: Via dei Terrazzamenti

 

Trail Name:  Via dei Terrazzamenti

Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained, with a hard-packed, but occasionally uneven surface throughout, usually there is good marking on the trail, but it tends to disappear in villages and towns.

Length:

Total: 70 kilometers/43 miles (Morbegno – Tirano)

Mine: 14 kilometers/8.5 miles (Chiuro – Ponchiera)

Convenient to: Sondrio, or Tirano, Lombardy, Italy

Marking:

Words “Via dei Terrazzamenti” on a white background with a four-leafed clover design inside; sometimes associated with a metal yellow arrow.

White over red horizontal bars indicate a hiking trail generically

Note: The photo below shows all of the above, with the addition of an extra sign on the yellow arrow, (with a number thirty), indicating a different trail as well.

Signage: Via dei Terrazzamenti

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Germany, Hiking

Climbing for Wine

 

The climbs were steep, but the views were very rewarding. With more time, I would have done more climbs. In fact, in my castle hiking days, I had already hiked to several highpoints and castles on this trail: the Neuleiningen, the Wachtenburg, Hambacher Schloss, the Kalmit lookout, and that is just in the Mittelhaardt district. But at 185 kilometers, I didn’t have enough vacation days left! So perhaps on some other trip to Germany, I will be able to complete the Pfaelzer Weinsteig Trail.

For hikers looking for an intimate experience of the Pfalz wine region, this trail covers much of the region, as does the Wanderweg (Hiking Trail) Deutsche Weinstrasse (see the Nutshells here and here). The similarities between the two is that each pass through famous wine towns and villages, where there are countless opportunities to sample the wines and visit wineries. They both also cover a variety of landscapes from urban, to vineyard to forest. The big difference is the level of difficulty. The Wanderweg Deutsche Weinstrasse is rather easy, with only a few steep climbs into woodlands. On the other hand, the Pfaelzer Weinsteig climbs from the villages, often located at the base of the hills, far into the hills of the Pfalzer Wald forest. In that sense, the trail is physically more challenging, and more diverse.

On the Trail: Rhine River Valley

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Mittelhaardt

 

What I Learned

Germany’s Pfalz wine region is divided into two parts, the northern district of Mittelhaardt/Deutsche Weinstrasse, and the Suedliche Weinstrasse which is located south of Neustadt an der Weinstrasse. This entire region produces both red and white wines, with white wines making up approximately two-thirds of the overall annual production.

The Mittelhaardt/Deutsche Weinstrasse district runs along the Haardt mountains, facing east on gentle slopes in the optimal rain and wind shadow formed by the mountains covered by the majestic trees of the Pfaelzer Wald forest. This district, which begins in Bockenheim and continues to south of Neustadt, is in one of the warmest and sunniest regions of Germany. It contains towns and villages famous for their wines, as well as their lively wine festivals. Bad Duerkheim, with its Wurstmarkt in September, Neustadt with its Weinlese festival, in October, are two of the most famous wine festivals in Germany.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Pfaelzer Weinsteig: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Pfaelzer Weinsteig

Trail Type:

Long distance trail; well-maintained albeit with some rougher stretches along the segments through the forest and hills, naturally, marking on the trail very good overall

Length:

Total – 185 Kilometers/114 miles

Stage 4: 20 kilometers/12.5 miles (Deidesheim to Neustadt an der Weinstrasse)

My segment*- 7.5 kilometers/ miles (Train station, Deidesheim to Gimmeldingen)

Convenient to:

Bad Duerkheim or Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany

Marking:

Red and white square, with white grapes on red background, trail name in red and white letters, alternatively simply red over white stripes

Signage Pfaelzer Weinsteig

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