Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Wine Notes: Mittelrhein

What I Learned:

Many areas of the Upper Middle Rhine do not produce wine: the geography just isn’t suitable or practicable, even for growing other crops, so steep are the slopes rising from the river’s edge; and that makes the vineyards along this section of the Rhine even more special and beloved.

Riesling dominates overwhelmingly here: over 70% of the plantings in this area are of Riesling vines. Its closest numerical competition comes from the approximately 9% of Spaetburgunder plantings. So these two varietals, one white, the other red, equal approximately 80% of all cultivated vines in this area. Muller-Thurgau, Kerner, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris make up about 11% of all remaining cultivated white varietals. Dornfelder and Portugieser make up the remaining red varietals.

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Rhine Cycle Route – Upper Middle Rhine: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name: Rheinradweg (German)/Rhine Cycle Route, also known as Eurovelo 15

Trail Type: Long distance cycling trail; This segment is completely paved, well maintained, and much of it follows a dedicated trail for bicycles. The specific route marking is not always easy to see, but bike signs to the next town/destination are abundant. (Otherwise, just go with (or against) the flow, literally.)

Length:

Total: over 1200 km/circa 760 miles

Segment: circa 45 km/ 30 miles

Convenient to: Bingen, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany

Marking:

Rhine Cycle Trail and town distance markings
Rhine Cycle Trail and town distance markings

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The Main Bike Trail: The Main and Wine

The resolve to bike along the Main River began with an earlier visit to the Veitshoechheim Palace and seeing the wide, asphalted bike path on the opposite shore in Margetshoechheim. The Main has always served as a commercial trading artery; barges, ferries, and even cruise ships nowadays, ply the waterway in an unending parade of river life. The Mainradweg trail offers bicyclists a fabulous opportunity to see all this activity, as well as some of Franconia’s most iconic vineyards and wine towns, on a leisurely ride along its gentle banks. It is easy to see why the 375-mile trail, which follows the river from east of Bayreuth to the Rhine at Wiesbaden, consistently wins awards in many categories: The route is well-marked, well-maintained, well-organized with bike-tourism services, and marvelously laid out – passing through idyllic countryside and picturesque villages and towns. It is extremely popular with German tourists, many of whom, judging from the overloaded panniers, complete several stages over a period of days.

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Hiking the German Wine Route: The Mittelhaardt

The Mittelhaardt is a lively district in September and early October, because this is when Neustadt an der Weinstrasse  holds its famous Weinfest, preceded by the Wurstmarkt, in Bad Duerkheim. These are two of the most popular wine festivals in the Mittelhaardt. These two small but fun towns, about 11 miles apart, are joined by the German Wine Route Hiking Trail, as it makes its way through the Mittelhaardt wine district of the Pfalz.

After finishing the southern half of the same trail, leading through the Suedliche Weinstrasse wine district to Neustadt, I later continued north through the town and into the nearby vineyards.

 

Haardt Villas
Haardt Villas

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Wine Notes: Pfalz Mittelhaardt Wine District

What I Learned:

The northern part of the Pfalz wine region is known as Mittelhaardt, beginning around Neustadt an der Weinstrasse, and continuing to around Worms, in Zellertal.

Reds grown here include the Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir), and Dornfelder, among others. But Riesling grapes predominate, as more than half the grapes grown in this region are of this varietal. Other white varietals of German fame include Mueller-Thurgau, Kerner, and Gewurztraminer. One varietal cultivated here, not often heard of in the non-German world, is known as the Scheurebe. In 1916, German viticulturalist, Georg Scheu, created this grape in his institute’s laboratory in Alzey, not far from the northern edges of the Mittelhaardt. This varietal is often destined to produce the sweet wines.

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German Wine Route Hiking Trail – Mittelhaardt District: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name: German Wine Route Hiking Trail/Wanderweg Deutsche Weinstrasse

Trail Type: Long distance hiking trail; pavement or hard-packed trail surface throughout, well maintained, and fairly well-marked.

Length:

Total: 96 km/60 miles of the complete trail

First segment of the Mittelhaardt district: 18.5 km/11.5 miles

Second segment of the Mittelhaardt district: 24 km/15 miles

Convenient to: Ludwigshafen, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany

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The Classic Deutsche Weinstrasse: Hiking the Suedliche Weinstrasse

The Weintor, a towering gate marking the beginning of the German Wine Route (Deutsche Weinstrasse), will forever mark in my mind the first step of a fantastic journey: A wonderful hike through the glorious and relatively unknown German wine districts of Suedliche Weinstrasse and Mittelhaardt in the fabulous region of the Pfalz in southwest Germany.

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Wine Notes: Pfalz Suedliche Weinstrasse

What I Learned:

The Pfalz has a long history of wine making. Grapes were cultivated and processed into wine even in the early days of Roman settlement along the Rhine. The implements found throughout various sites in this part of the Pfalz, some of which are in the museum in Edenkoben, bear witness to this long history. The tradition continued with the establishment of regional monasteries, such as the one in Wissembourg, France, just south of today’s Weintor in neighboring Germany, dating to the 600s; and important dioceses’ centers in old Roman districts, such as Worms and Speyer. (Church services required wine, hence vineyards for the raw material.)

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