Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Meursault: A Study in Chardonnay

 

My last trip to Burgundy’s Cote d’Or region focused on the northern part, the Cote de Nuits, and its red wines; therefore, I devoted this trip to the southern part, the Cote de Beaune, and its delicious white wines.

Meursault is a small town that has given its name to some of the best known Burgundy white wines in the world. Its wine makers produce Chardonnay exclusively. To gain familiarity with its Chardonnay terrain, I chose one of 16 trails in the area, the one that took me through Meursault, its vineyards, and nearby villages.

Meursault and its Vineyards
Meursault and its Vineyards

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Wine Notes: Meursault

 

What I Learned:

This post is about Chardonnay, the grape and the wine, and its unique expression in the area around Meursault, in the heart of white Burgundy wine country.

Chardonnay is an adaptable grape. It tolerates a diverse range of soils, and climates. Consider its range: from Washington State to China, and below the equator too, from South Africa to Chile and then Australia. Within Europe, a key northern location is in the cool, rainy Champagne region, where it usually comprises part of a champagne blend, whereas a major southern Chardonnay viticulture center is in hot, dry southern Sicily.

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Meursault: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Promenade en Pays Beaunois Circuit 14, Monthelie; aka Sentier des Buis. (“PR n 14” is seen also on signs)

Trail Type: mid-distance circuit; surfaces vary from asphalt, to hard-packed earth, to rough trails; the route is fairly well-marked, but a map is definitely handy.

Length: total: 12 kilometers/7.5 miles

Convenient to: Beaune, France

Marking: Small yellow rectangular signs “Pays Beaunois 14”, then painted rectangles or arrows (on a variety of surfaces (rocks, trees, posts) indicating the direction to follow. Signs, as in the featured image above, also indicate a specific location and direction to continue.

Pays Beaunois Circuit 14 Sign
Pays Beaunois Circuit 14 Sign

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A Flowery Winter Hike

 

Fleurie means flowery, which this village undoubtedly is in spring and summer. But on my winter weekend break it was wet and windy. The weather only worsened as time went on. The rain turned into downpours. But after almost two days of rain, the forecasts called for a two to three-hour break in the rains. I decided to embark on one of Fleurie’s four circuit trails before leaving the area. Four great trails, seemingly designed for someone like me: wanting to hike, but with some time constraints. A great and convenient feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois (Between Vines and Woods) series of trails in Fleurie, is this: They are circuits that radiate out from the village in increasingly wider circles. Therefore, hikers can choose between one or another depending on time, capabilities, or in this case, weather.

Optimistically choosing the 12 kilometer (red) circuit, I set off from the Place de l’Eglise. But within 10 minutes, rain began to fall. A quick look at the sky confirmed that thick black clouds were rolling in faster than anticipated. So I switched to the four kilometer circuit instead. It was an easy decision to make on the spot. Should the downpours suddenly return, the map showed that this circuit also allowed for a couple of possible shortcuts, on tarmac, no less. This kind of flexibility created by interconnectivity is another great feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois trail series.

Village of Fleurie
Village of Fleurie

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Wine Notes: Beaujolais

 

What I Learned

Beaujolais falls within the wine region of Burgundy, although it is outside the political boundaries of the region. It has three different quality levels: a simple Beaujolais produced in the southern-most reaches of this area; a Beaujolais-Village appellation; and in the northern part of this wine region, ten villages with their own appellations due to their special crus. It is a singular geological area of often steep hills and hidden valleys. Schist and granitic soils in the Beaujolais give a distinctive minerality to the wines. The best of these wines, the ten villages/areas of appellation (Brouilly, Chenas, Cote de Brouilly, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Julienas, Morgon, Moulin a Vent, Regnie, Saint-Amour) offer good value for quality wines. Overall, there are 12 different appellations within the Beaujolais region to look for on a bottle label.

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Entre Vignes et Bois: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Fleurie – Entre Vignes et Bois

Trail Type(s): A series of four circuits, short, medium and long distances, circling out from Fleurie (in the Beaujolais district); trail surfaces partly paved, partly hard-packed, otherwise grass or earthen surfaces (sandy or compacted); Route(s) mostly marked.

Length(s):

Total: 4, 12, 16 and 25 kilometers/2.5, 7.5, 10, and 15.5 miles respectively

Convenient to: Lyon, France

Marking: Colored rectangles (blue, for the four kilometer circuit; red for the 12 kilometer circuit, green for the 16 kilometer circuit, and yellow for the 25 kilometer circuit.), some with arrow to indicate direction; and sometimes a square placard with the words “Entre Vignes et Bois” and a bunch of grapes and a grape leaf.

Entre Vignes et Bois Circuits Sign
Entre Vignes et Bois Circuits Sign

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Green Creek and Red Mountain Land

 

Posts last month (here) detailed the first three stages of my hike through the southern-most portions of the Wuerttembergische Weinwanderweg (W4, for short), using only public transportation from Stuttgart. I ended the first half of my intended stages at the small town of Remshalden. This post (and the Nutshell) covers the remaining stages, passing through the wine growing area of Remstal, all the way to the historic city of Esslingen.

First Vineyards of the Remstal
First Vineyards of the Remstal

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Wine Notes: Wuerttemberg’s Remstal-Stuttgart

 

What I Learned

Wuerttemberg is a large and diverse wine region. Throughout the region red varietals tend to predominate, especially the Trollinger variety. The part of the trail through greater Stuttgart essentially covered two of Wuerttemberg’s six wine districts. This post includes the Stuttgart and Remstal districts. These are right along the Wuerttembergische Weinwanderweg trail, slightly north and east of Stuttgart, and as far south as Esslingen.

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Wuerttembergischer Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Wuerttembergischer Weinwanderweg

Trail Type: Long distance; often but not always paved, fairly well maintained, but the route itself is not always marked in critical places.

Length:

(Total: 470 kilometers / 292 miles)

Segments Covered in this Post: circa 27 kilometers / 17.5 miles

Convenient to: Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany

Marking: Red grape bunch on a white background (on a sign, painted on walls or trees, on stickers adhering to posts)

W4 Trail Marking
W4 Trail Marking

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Training to Hike

 

Stuttgart is a huge metropolis, connected by an extensive rail system. Using Stuttgart’s subway/urban rail system trains, the “S-Bahn” in German, I hiked along the southern end of the 470 kilometer-long (292 miles) wine hiking trail known as the Wuerttembergischer Weinwanderweg. The W4, I as refer to it below for expeditious reasons, wends its way through the quiet, green belt surrounding the Stuttgart region, encompassing its vineyards in the Neckar and Rems Valleys.

Stuttgart’s public transportation system is extremely efficient, and unbelievably inexpensive with a tourist pass. To prove the point, over two weekends there I decided to hike the southern-most sections of the W4, using my three-day, all-network passes. Leaving from downtown Stuttgart, I headed to the town of  Marbach on the  the S-4 line. Famous as the home of the great German author Schiller, Marbach is the site of the northern-most conjunction of Stuttgart’s S-Bahn system and the W4. About 30 minutes later, I was on the trail, passing through the charming old town, high above the Neckar River.

Old Marbach
Old Marbach

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