Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Hiking, Switzerland

Alpine Rhine Vines

 

The Rhine River valley has vineyards on both sides along much of its length. In four countries, (five, if you include a mere 30 acres in the Vorarlberg region of Austria), vineyards cover select slopes of various geologies and topographies. Five sections of the Rhine have vines: The Alpine, the High, the Upper, the Middle and the Lower. The Alpine Rhine, from Reichenau to Lake Constance, mostly flows through a mostly wide valley lined by Alps on either side. The Graubunden Canton north of Chur, the tiny country of Liechtenstein, and the Sankt Gallen Canton, all have vineyards on the slopes facing onto this section of the Rhine. Since I had already visited some of those vineyards on a hike in the Graubunden Canton, (see here) I decided to visit the Sankt Gallen Canton to see some of their vineyards, and to learn about some of their wines.

The Rhine, and its Canal by Au

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Switzerland, Wines

Wine Notes: Switzerland’s Sankt Gallen

 

What I Learned

The Swiss Appellation d’Origine Controlee Sankt Gallen in eastern Switzerland, has two districts, both in Sankt Gallen Canton: the Oberland and the Rheintal. The Rheintal district lies on the west side of the Rhine River valley before it enters Lake Constance and consists of parcels in select spots between Rheineck and Rebstein, along with a smaller section by Bad Ragaz. Less than 130 hectares (320 acres) of vineyards exist in total. Planted on slopes that rise (somewhat steeply by Berneck and Pfaefers) from the valley floor, the highest vines are in Pfaefers. Mueller-Thurgau and Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) are the most planted varietals.

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Hiking, Nutshell, Switzerland

Monsteiner Rebweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Monsteiner Rebweg

Trail Type: A short distance circuit; well-maintained, partly paved, with stairs in places, good marking on the trail.

Length:

Original – 4.8 kilometers/ miles

Extension – 6.4 kilometers/ miles

Convenient to: Bregenz, Austria

Marking: Signs with the words “Monsteiner Rebweg”. See the photo above.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Burgunderpfad: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Burgunderpfad

Trail Type: Long distance hiking trail; varied surfaces from grass to hardpacked dirt, to asphalt; well maintained, and mostly well-marked.

Length:

Total: 27.5 kilometers/ 17 miles

Segment (mine): Gottenheim to Munzingen: 17.5

Convenient to: Freiburg, Germany

Marking: Purple grapes with light green terraces in profile, in a white circle, on a red stripe

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Baden’s Tuniberg

 

What I Learned

The smallest of all Baden wine districts lies within the largest, the Kaiserstuhl. The Tuniberg is an enormous bank of limestone, geologically quite distinct from the surrounding volcanic Kaiserstuhl. It is an elevated area, separated from the Kaiserstuhl by a broad valley, and it is further away from the Rhine.

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Germany, Hiking

The Burgundies Path

 

When I think back on all the wine-themed hiking paths I have done, the Burgundy Path in southern Germany will always be one of my favorites. What is not to like about this trail through peaceful agricultural land, and laid-back villages, in Germany’s warmest, sunniest and driest area!

The Tuniberg is by the Kaiserstuhl, a unique geographical outcropping formed by volcanos. However, the Tuniberg, on the southern edge, is a giant bank of limestone, which extends roughly north-south for over a dozen miles. Its sometimes steep slopes stand higher than the Rhine River valley lands around it. This affords great sun and wind exposure, which combined with a goodly amount of sun for an area this far north, and limestone soils, makes it the “Burgundy Oasis” in Baden.

Kaiserstuhl

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Germany, Hiking

Climbing the Moselle Terraces

 

The Weinwetterweg circuit, if nothing else, promotes a new appreciation for viticultural workers on the Moselle. The “Terraced Moselle” is the name of wine district where the lower length of the Moselle starts, and serious terraces begin. This end of the Moselle twists and turns through the slate cliffs and outcroppings that line its sides. As it approaches the junction with the Rhine at Coblenz, the seemingly impossible-to-sustain vineyards appear between narrow river frontage, and high rocky promontories. This is the most spectacular part of the Moselle, and is well worth both a visit and a hike.

Hatzenport and the Rabenlay

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Lower Moselle/Terrassenmosel

 

 What I Learned:

Germany’s important (and oldest) wine-producing Moselle River region has three wine districts along it – the Upper, Middle and Lower – beginning at the French-Luxembourg border, and continuing to Koblenz downriver. This post focuses on the Lower Moselle (Untermosel), also known as the Terraced Moselle (Terrassenmosel).

This district, north of Zell (with the famous black cat emblem), past Cochem and its imposing Reichsburg Castle, to the river junction at Koblenz with the Rhine, boasts some of the steepest vineyards in the world. It is home to the Calmont in Bremm, which has almost a 65-degree incline! Hence the need for the narrow terraces which dominate the landscape in the vine-bearing cliffs and steep hillsides of this district. In the village of Hatzenport, three named vineyard areas, the Kirchberg, the Stolzenberg and the Burg Bischofstein, are among some of the steepest vineyards in the district.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

WeinWetterWeg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Hatzenport WeinWetterWeg

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; well-maintained, varied trail surfaces from rock, to scree, to grass and tarmac; excellent signage along the trail.

Length:

Total – 12 kilometers/ 7.5 miles

Convenient to: Coblenz, Cochem, Germany

Marking: A white rabbit and grapes, with directional arrow diagrams

WeinWetterWeg Signage

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France, Hiking

Dragon’s Blood Wine

 

Now encircled by stout walls, in the distant past the lands of Turckheim once faced a threat from a fierce foe – a dragon. Ultimately vanquished, the dragon’s blood spilled on the side of a hill, where its warmth and power rendered that soil very fruitful. Thus, both the town and its legend nowadays serve its tourism as well as its wine industry.

Turckheim is a compact town, running along the bank of a small river. Its walls back against the very hillside that has brought it fame in the wine world: The Brand. Rugged, covered in vines and topped by pines, it is very picturesque; as is the old town center, with its walls, gate towers and half-timbered houses. Fortunately, a hike dedicated to the town’s wines from its most famous cru, is available as well.

Porte de France, Turckheim

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