Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Pfalz’s Suedliche Weinstrasse

 

What I Learned

The Pfalz has more hectares (about 23, 600) under vine than any other wine region in Germany, except Rheinhessen. It is divided into two districts: the Mittelhaardt, and the Suedliche Weinstrasse. White wine varietals, of which there are over 70 different types, predominate, especially Riesling, but red wine varietals are increasing, now with over 50 types, in proportion to the white varietals.

In the Suedliche Weinstrasse district, the Deutsche Weintor Winery (Winzergenossenschaft) primarily serves the Suedliche Weinstrasse district. Founded in 1956, the winery takes its name from Deutsche Weintor, the iconic wine gate in Schweigenhof-Rechtenbach on the French border, which marked the end of German’s first car tourism Route: The German Wine Road (Deutsche Weinstrasse). A popular tourist site, many people are familiar with the Deutsches Weintor vinothek there. However, its cellar, begun in 1957, is a bit further north, in Ilbesheim bei Landau. It likewise has a vinothek. Nowadays, with over 600 wine growers, and over 850 hectares, the Deutsche Weintor Winery dominates the wine production of this area.

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Biking, Germany, Nutshell

Fassboden 3: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Fassboden 3

Trail Type: Short distance cycling circuit; well-maintained and on mostly paved surfaces, (with little vehicular traffic along the way). Marking on the trail was good in some areas, albeit with only generic cycling traffic marking, and non-existent in others. (Best to have the free map or the GPX coordinates found at the link below.)

Length:

Total – 23.5 kilometers/14.5 miles

Convenient to: Landau, or Karlsruhe, or Bad Bergzabern, Germany

Marking:

Square signs with a wine barrel and the number 3 inscribed on it. (Colors are green and white; sometimes it is a green background with white design, or otherwise vice versus.)

Trail Signs – with a Fassboden 3 Sign

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France, Hiking

Hiking Sancerre

 

Flowing over 1000 kilometers from its source in south central France, the Loire River passes through a rich variety of geological and scenic landscapes. On its northbound trajectory, on the upper half of the river, it passes Sancerre, home to a great viticultural tradition, and start point for my hike, covering this small section of France’s longest river.

Vines and valleys define Sancerre and its surroundings. Add vistas and charm, and you have an idea of this appeal of this trail. Set along a crest fronting the upper Loire River, the town, like the wine, is uniquely memorable and easy to like for all the reason above.

View from the Esplanade

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France, Wines

Wine Notes: Sancerre

 

What I Learned

The Loire River, being over 1000 kilometers long, has several appellations along, or near it. Previous posts covered the wines of the lower half of the Loire, by Anjou, Amboise, and the famous chateaux of the Loire. This post concerns Sancerre, the appellation in the upper half of the Loire.

Sancerre is famous for its racy Sauvignon Blanc wines. Nowadays, a bit over 80 per cent of all wine production here is Sauvignon Blanc wine. It is a varietal wine made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes, which do exceptionally well in this area’s cooler, continental climate. (By contrast, the lower Loire has an Atlantic climate.) As most wine lovers know, Sauvignon Blanc wine is rather distinctive. Like Sauvignon Blanc wines world-wide, Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc exhibits a crisp, fruity, citrus sharpness, from the nose to the palette, and a fair amount of acidity. Flavor descriptions tend to include citrus, green gooseberries, and green apple.

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France, Hiking, Nutshell

Entre Vignes et Vallons: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Entre Vignes et Vallons

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; somewhat maintained, with mostly rough surfaces, and no marking on the trail. (See comment below.)

Length:

Total – 9 or 12 kilometers/ 5.6 or 7.5 miles

Convenient to: Sancerre, France

Marking:

None

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Germany, Hiking

Riesling Wine Wandering

 

Increasingly, wine regions, especially those growing iconic grape varietals, sponsor varietal wine walking trails. Riesling is an especially important varietal in the Rhine River Valley. When I heard of one such trail in the wine region of Baden, I decided to visit.

The Riesling Weg (Trail) is located in the village of Eisental. In this part of the Baden wine region, the Ortenau, Riesling is the single-most cultivated varietal. Riesling can be a challenge to grow, given the lack of sunshine some years, and the steep slopes required to ensure maximal sun exposure when there is any. However, this Riesling trail was not challenging, and is easy enough for the whole family to enjoy.

First, there was the village. Small, compact, and nestled in a hollow, it was an oasis of tranquility. The old nucleus of the village, set around the church and town hall (Rathaus), was untouched by tourism – So laid back that it has only one eatery in the center.

Eisental and the Black Forest

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Ortenau Riesling

What I Learned

Riesling grows in every German wine region, and in some, a lot more than others. In the Baden wine region, Riesling is the single most cultivated white varietal. The Ortenau, in particular, grows more Riesling proportionally, than any other wine area within the Baden wine region.

Riesling has a long and interesting history here. Traditionally, the name Klingelberger applies to Riesling wine from the Ortenau. In a nod to this tradition, you can still find Riesling wine sold under this label, (much as you can find Pinot Noir grown in Affental, bottled under the name Affentaler). Another tradition involves the use of the uniquely shaped flat Bocksbeutel as the bottle of choice. The Bocksbeutel is traditionally associated with the Franken/Franconia wine region, but this area of the Ortenau adopted its use in the 1700s, when a nobleman from Franconia took up residence here, and bottled his wines using the Bocksbeutel. After a lengthy legal suit in the 1970s over Franconia’s exclusive right to use the Bocksbeutel, the court upheld the Ortenau tradition, ruling that outside Franconia, only the Baden areas around Neuweier, Steinbach and Varnhalt could bottle their wine that way.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Rieslingweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Rieslingweg

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, very good marking on the trail

Length:

Total – 7.1 kilometers/4.4 miles

Convenient to: Baden-Baden, Germany

Marking: Green grapes with a green leaf on a white (sometimes yellow) background

Riesling Weg Signage

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Germany, Hiking

Monkeys and Wine

 

While it might not be true wine, monkeys do consume, quite deliberately, fermented fruit juice found in the wild.

A theme of monkeys and wine drew me to a hike in the Affental, not far from Baden-Baden, Germany. A possible translation of Affen-tal, is Monkey Valley. Wine from this area is duly bottled with a monkey embossing the front of the bottle. I had often wondered about this somewhat incongruous mascot, and a visit to the local cooperative, Affentaler Winzer, provided an opportunity to taste the local wines, and learn more about the viticultural history and practices of the area. The short hike gave me an opportunity to wander through the vineyards of Affental.

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Affental Red Wine

 

What I Learned

Monkey Valley, or  Affental, in German, has a long history of wine making. Located just south of Baden-Baden, this corner of Baden, Germany long attracted and encouraged monastic foundations. As is often the case, it was medieval religious who established the viticulture of the region, as they needed communion wine. In this case, the 13th century Cistercians from the Lichtenthaler Monastery of Baden-Baden planted Pinot Noir vines in this area of steep slopes with good exposure to the sun.

The practice of viticulture has continued ever since. In 1908, local vintners  created the Affentaler Winzer, a cooperative winery. This cooperative focused on red wine production. Although other cooperatives were also in Eisental, Affentaler Winzer has since incorporated them into its cooperative.  Affentaler wine has stood out, literally, since 1949, as the Affental Winzer red wine bottles have a raised metal plaquette of a monkey on them.

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