Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Wine Notes: Bernkastel Moselle

December 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned

The Mosel (Moselle)-Saar Ruwer Wine Region is a large one. The focus here is the wine growths directly along the Moselle River valley, which is classified into three sections: The Southern (Upper) Moselle area, the Bernkastel (Middle) Moselle area, and the Terraced (Lower) Moselle.

The Upper Moselle (in Germany) begins at the French border, at Perl, opposite the Luxembourg town of Schengen. It follows the river downstream. The soil here is characterized by shell limestone, marl and sediment. The slopes here are fairly gentle, and the Saar River joins into the Moselle at the edge of this zone. This area ends where it abuts against the Bernkastel (Middle) Moselle zone, around the city of Trier. The Ruwer district joins the Moselle above Trier, then the Bernkastel zone begins again by Kenn, and continues uninterrupted almost reaching Zell (Mosel). Most visitors begin their Moselle visits at Bernkastel-Kues, and follow downriver to Zell and Cochem, even to Koblenz on the Rhine, thus missing this southern Bernkastel area completely. In this middle district, I mostly focused on wines from Mehring, and its well-known Goldkupp and Zellerberg vineyards. The area around Trier (famous for Karl Marx and the Romans), produced some interesting wines as well. This is where Roman history and great wine terroir combine to create a compelling experience for wine tourists.

What I Tasted

2017 Riesling Spaetlese, Mehringer Goldkupp, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Sebastiani (Mehring): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; floral, mineral nose, with spice mustard, slight turpentine, and fruit flavors, medium plus acidity, with a tart finish.

2017 Riesling, Mehringer Zellerberg, Hochgewaechs, Halb-Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Sebastiani: An off-dry white wine with pale plus gold color; a slightly mineral nose, with green apples, and green gooseberry flavors.

2017 Riesling Auslese, Mehringer Goldkupp, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Sebastiani: A sweet white wine with medium minus gold color; a ripe, fruity nose, with ripe peach and apricot flavors; mild acidity, and well-balanced overall.

2017 Weissburgunder, Mehringer Zellerberg, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Weingut Sebastiani: A dry white wine with pale gold color; a slight nose of fruit, and green apple flavor, with a hint of minerality; Medium acidity.

2016 Dornfelder, Auf Schock, Trocken, QbA, Weingut Jutta Fassian (Mehring): A dry red wine with dark garnet color; cherry nose with a hint of tobacco, cherry, pipe tobacco and oak flavors; soft, mild tannins, smooth finish, with a velvety mouthfeel.

2016 Riesling, Trierer Sankt Mattheiser, Hochgewaechs, Feinherb, Qualitaetswein, Weingut H. Wahlen (Trier): An off-dry white wine with light gold color, fruity and mineral nose, with floral and ripe peach flavors; medium acidity, smooth, sweet finish.

2015 Spaetburgunder Rose, Halb-Trocken, QbA, Weingut Longen-Schloeder (Longen-Longuich): An off-dry rose with a light cranberry color; slight red berry and floral nose, with red berry and vanilla flavors, hint of stone-mineral; smooth finish.

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Mehring R5: Trail in a Nutshell

December 11, 2023 admin

Trail Name: Roemische Weinstrasse Mehring R5

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail mostly good

Length:

Total – 9.8 kilometers/ 6.08 miles

Convenient to: Trier, Germany

Marking:

White and yellow metal square with lettering R5 in black, stylized hikers; and/or directional arrows with trail number on posts

Trail Description: An easy circuit, suitable for most families, that traverses vineyards, pastures, and copses, and passing through Mehring’s village center. While there are plentiful rest spots, snack/bar establishments, and hiking huts to picnic in along the trail, you will want to spend your time admiring the bird’s eye views of the Moselle, and the surrounding hills.

Trailhead:

Mehring: Deierbachstrasse x Schulstr

Parking:

Mehring: a small lot (about 20 cars) at Lintnerstrasse x Deierbachstrasse

Mehring: a small lot downhill from the one above on Deierbachstrasse

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: No train service, per se

Bus: The Moselbahn bus has frequent daytime service from Trier to Mehring, stopping at several villages along the way.

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Mehring: from parking lot at follow Deierbachstr uphill, right onto Schulstr, and stay left on Schulstr uphill to Roemerstr-Goldkuppstr-Bornstr, crossing Am Rebenhang into vineyards; follow the long uphill lane to Huxlay Hutte; follow signs for the Kapelle; then along vineyards to the 10,000 Liter Fass (big wine barrel); follow the tree line, enter the woods, continue to follow the trail leading towards (but not necessarily to): Zitronenkraemerkreuz, Aulkreuz, and Hundsbuckel; heading downhill, the woods end and vineyards begin again; following the Muehlenbach creek past a small pond; past the Dreitaeler Weinkommission, right onto Steinkaul downhill, and right back onto Deierbachstr.

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

Mehring (exterior door attached to the town hall/tourist/ Wein u. Heimat Museum building open Apr-Oct (as of Nov 2023))

Attractions on or near Trail:

The Wein and Heimat Museum from April to October; otherwise just lots of scenery and good wine

Tasting along the Trail:

About 20 wine-makers have cellars in Mehring, and at various times, they are open for tastings. In addition to these, and restaurants in the village, there are three wine bars.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Hiking enthusiasts will find a diverse (circuit, long-distance, family, challenging or easy…) selection of trails, to include wine themed hiking trails, all along the Mosel. Especially popular, albeit not exclusively wine-themed, is the Moselsteig.

Biking: The 248 kilometer Mosel-Radweg (Mosel Bike Trail) begins in Trier passes through Mehring, thence all the way to Koblenz. This beloved bike itinerary, mostly on paved surfaces, and much of it on dedicated bike trail, while not exclusively wine-themed, is a must-do (at-least-once-in-a-lifetime) experience for young and old wine enthusiasts. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.roemische-weinstrasse.de/roemische_weinstrasse/de/Urlaubsthemen/Wandern/%C3%96rtliche%20Rundwanderwege/

Trail specific: https://www.bergfex.com/sommer/rheinland-pfalz/touren/wanderung/162982,rundwanderweg-mehring–hundsbuckel–huxlay-plateau–mehring-r5/

Comments:

An easily achievable hiking opportunity (and with lots of other options) for almost all visitors to the Moselle valley, to experience a beautiful setting in a world-class wine region, without the crowds.

Biking, Germany

Two States of Mind

November 12, 2023 admin

Forty-five kilometers by bicycle through two wine regions, on a late September day with beautiful weather, on an easy itinerary in a quiet spot between Bavaria and Baden-Wuerttemberg – two different wine districts in two different wine regions. No wonder I was enjoying myself!

Neither Bavaria nor Baden-Wuerttemberg are wine regions, per se. Rather, the Franconian Wine Region’s Mainviereck wine district lies in this distant corner of Bavaria. Baden-Wuerttemberg (a political creation post-WWII, amalgamating the states of Baden and Wuerttemberg) both have wine regions named after them individually. Here, the vineyards belong to Baden’s Tauberfranken wine district.

Beginning in Bavaria, in Uettlingen, the trail proceeded through fields of wheat, slightly uphill, through and beyond the neighboring village of Remlingen, with its attractive church, reaching Tiefenthal through shady copses. At this point, the trail began to follow along the Erlenbach Creek, and for the remainder of the circuit, the trail followed waterways, with vineyards ranged along slopes rising above them.

Modified Onion Dome in Remlingen, Bavaria

The Erlenbach Creek continued northwest, in its quest to join the Main River. But the trail diverged, leading into the delightful old town of Marktheidenfeld. Its historic center has its narrow lanes flanked by an architectural smorgasbord. (The Franck House is particularly interesting example of baroque architecture.) Museums, pubs, restaurants, and the lovely park along the Main, invite cyclists to stop and visit.

In Marktheidenfeld, the trail met up with one of my old favorites, the Mainradweg. This is a 600 km long itinerary following mostly along the river, and much of it is on dedicated bicycle path! So, I happily followed it south (downriver), crossing the Erlenbach where it joined the Main, enjoying the beauty and impeccable trail surface for quite some time. (Germany has some of the best bicycle paths in the entire world (IMHO)!)

This very easy section of the itinerary would end, of course, but in the meantime, there are the sights and sounds of the river, from day boaters to small cruise ships, castles and monasteries on not-to-distant hilltops, and all sorts of waterfowl and fish, all enjoying the day.

The trail soon reached Lengfurt and Homburg am Main, two villages with famous vineyards. One, the Lengfurter Oberrot, could be compared to a French Premier Cru, and the Homburg vineyard, the Kallmuth, is comparable to a Grand Cru. Wine here is serious business and has been since medieval times. A medieval monastery stands high atop the bank opposite Lengfurt, and a castle, the monastery’s political/military counterpart, sits atop the river bank in Homburg. (Find those combinations in European wine country, and good vineyards making good wine are usually close by.)

The Main is famous for its loops. The next village, Bettingen, marks the start of a narrow one, which would be less than 2000 feet/500 meters, from one side of the “peninsula” to the other. But before that, the trail crossed from Bavaria (usually more famous for its beer than its wine) into Baden-Wuerttemberg (more famous for its wine (which is hard to find outside Germany), and less famous for its beer). At Bettingen, the trail leaves the river, and climbs uphill, and traverses the highway on a pedestrian bridge, to Wertheim Village, a famous factory outlet “village”.

Cycling from the Main, high on a plateau, the trail lead through Baden’s Tauberfranken vineyards, interspersed with fields and forests. The trail followed a little creek upstream, leading to one of the last surprises of this itinerary: a huge monastic complex in the tiny village of Holzkirchen. Now, a center for meditation and mindfulness, it was set against a backdrop of deep forest green and quiet gardens, with the little Aalbach creek gently trickling by.

On the way back to the start, through a still forest on a soft trail, I realized the dichotomous aspects of the experiences along this trail: of two wine regions, of water and land, of diverse political and religious communities, unified by the Zen of it all.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Franconia’s Mainviereck

November 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned

Baden and Wuerttemberg, formerly two different principalities, joined in 1952 to become one state in the Federal Republic of Germany. However, the Baden wine region and the Wuerttemberg wine region remain distinct. (There is no such thing as a Baden-Wuerttemberg wine region.) But in the northern-most corner of the old Baden, and west of Wuerzburg in the far western corner of Bavaria, two wine regions, the Franken and the Baden, meet to form a complex mosaic of wine districts and famous growths. The Schoppen Radweg bicycle trail took me through the vineyards of these regions from the Wertheim am Main to Marktheidenfeld, Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld and along the Main River to Homburg am Main.

Franconian Terroir:

The Franken region has three zones, the Steigerwald, the Maindreieck (Main Triangle), and the Mainviereck (Main Rectangle). Both the latter two lie along the Main River, but geologically they are very different terroir. Shell limestone soils predominate in the Maindreieck, and results in very different wines from wines grown in the red sandstone of the Mainviereck. The small area around Marktheidenfeld and Homburg am Main lies in between these two Franconian wine districts, and the soils reflect its position between the two. The best vineyards in this district face the Main River as it twists south yet again. The most prized vineyards are the Kallmuth by Homburg am Main, and the Lengfurter Oberrot (The rot (red) referring to the red sandstone of the Mainviereck that begins to appear here along with the shell limestone of the Maindreieck.) This small area produces both red and white wines: Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Silvaner being especially popular here.

Baden Terroir:

The Baden wine district here (one of nine in the Baden wine region) forms part of the Tauberfranken district (even though it is not along the Tauber River here). The vineyards face south, along the small valley of the Aalbach, as it heads toward the Main. The Tauberfranken district produces primarily white wines, with Mueller-Thurgau leading in amount.

What I Tasted

2016 Spaetburgunder, Lengfurter Oberrot, QbA, Trocken, Weinhaus Frank: A dry red wine with medium red plus ruby red color; a nose of vanilla, blackberry and cherry; with oak, vanilla and cherry flavors; medium tannins, with a smooth finish.

2016 Silvaner, Homburger Kallmuth, QbA, Trocken, Weingut Blank: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a fruity and slightly mineral nose, with slight vanilla, nutmeg, and white peach flavors; medium plus acidity with a green apple finish.

2017 Weisser Burgunder, Homburger Kallmuth, Kabinett, Trocken, Weingut Huller: A dry white wine with dark minus yellow gold color; a fruity nose with hints of peach, gooseberry and citrus; with flavors of tangy green apple, and ripe red apple; medium minus acidity.

Biking, Germany, Nutshell

Schoppenradweg: Trail in a Nutshell

November 11, 2023 admin

Trail Name: Schoppenradweg

Trail Type: A medium distance cycling circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail is good.

Length:

Total – 45 kilometers/28 miles

Convenient to: Wertheim, or Wuerzburg, Germany

Marking: Schoppen (wine glass) with bike

Trail Description: An easy and pleasant circuit through a wide variety of landscapes, with lots of history, views and things to do, on bike paths that are excellently maintained and a pleasure to ride on.

Trailhead:

Official: Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld

Me: Uettingen (B): Helmstadterstrasse-Hauptstrasse

Parking:

Uettingen: Am Graben x Muehlweg, a large paved parking area

Erlenbach Bei Marktheidenfeld: large paved parking lot at Wiesenweg x Hirtenweg, by the Festhalle

Marktheidenfeld: Parkplatz Mainkai, large paved parking lot just before the bridge, off Brueckenstrasse

Lengfurt: Off St2299, by the river, a large free, and paved lot

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Buses are the only option in this area, run by the VVM (a Main region company). But they are linked with the Deutsche Bahn site for details. See https://int.bahn.de/en

Suggested Stages:

Not Applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Uettingen: Hauptstrasse-Kirchbergstrasse, Birkenfelderweg, fields; Remlingen: Cross Weberleinsweg x Birkenfelderstrasse, to Birkenfelderstrasse, Zehntbergweg; Tiefenthal: Kreuzstrasse, Obere G Strasse, Wasserweg, cross Hauptstrasse to path along creek; Erlenbach: Wiesenweg, Im Bruhl, left at lone farm house to pass under Wuerzburgerstrasse, fields; Marktheidenfeld: Am Weiler, under Dillbergstrasse, along creek path, under Sudring, Lohgraben under B8 to Friedenstrasse, Kreuzbergstrasse, cross B8 to Mitteltorstrasse-Fahrgasse, to Main River trail; pass Mainuferbiergarten, pass Klaeranlage; Lengfurt: Along the river; Homburg: under ST2299, Maintalstrasse, under ST2299, along river: Bettingen: Geiselbrunnweg, Dorfstrasse-Hauptstrasse, Dertingerweg, over A3 on Almosenberg, Hymerring, pass Kletterpark; Dertingen: Sandweg, Albachstrasse/L2310, Al Mandelberg; Wuestenzell: Along the Aalbach; Holzkirchen: Bruckenstrasse, Baltasar Neumannstrasse (P), Klosterstrasse, fields, forests; Uettingen: Untere Muhle-Hollerbuschweg

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

Marktheidenfeld: Marktplatz, between the Volkshochschule and St Laurentius Church

Lengfurt/Triefenstein: downriver from the parking lot, off Sr2299. Look for a small green corrugated structure

Attractions on or near Trail:

Marktheidenfeld – the Franck-Haus is a fine building constructed in the baroque for a wealthy wine merchant. Recently renovated, the façade, baroque rooms and the old wine cellar are worth a visit. Exhibits rotate in other parts of the building as well.

Homburg – Rebsortengarten, (a grape varietal garden), a collection of vines (with labels) providing a quick reference for grape varietals grown regionally.

Tasting along the Trail:

Marktheidenfeld – Several pubs and restaurants offer local wines.

Lengfurt/Triefenstein and Erlenbach bei Marktheidenfeld both have a couple of wineries and vineyards outside the village.

Homburg am Main is the village with the most choices for wineries or wine shops, and is the site of the famous Kallmuth vineyard along the slopes overlooking the river.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Homburger Weinwanderweg, a 10 kilometer/6 mile long trail beginning and ending in Homburg, is a fairly easy route through town, vineyards and forest, with river views along much of the way.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.main-spessart.de/themen/tourismus-kultur/19.Tourismus–Kultur-im-Landkreis.html

Trail specific: https://www.gemeinde-erlenbach.de/tourismusfreizeit/radwege/

Comments:

One of the biggest wine festivals of this area is the Weinfest Homburg, in Homburg/Triefenstein, every end of July to the first weekend in August, in the old castle courtyard.

From Bettingen to Uettingen, the Schoppen Radweg itinerary is the same as the Romantische Strasse bicycle itinerary. After Uettingen the 498.25 kilometer itinerary continues about another 15 kilometers (a bit less than 10 miles) to Wuerzburg, the northern terminus of the Romantische Strasse, for both cars and bicycles.

Note that both Lengfurt and Homburg am Main are part of the Triefenstein community. Therefore, tourist information about this part of the trail may be found under https://tourismus-triefenstein.de/

France, Hiking

A New Castle Makes New Wine From Old

October 12, 2023 admin

In the early 14^th century, a Pope decided to make a new residence (his Chateauneuf, or New Castle) in the countryside a few miles north of Avignon. The intent was to use this as a summer residence, away from the noise and heat of Avignon. Vines have been in this area, around what is now the village of Chateauneuf du Pape, for at least a couple of millennia. The wine it produced, though, was not particularly good. But with papal money and interest, the wine improved greatly over time. Nowadays, Chateauneuf du Pape wine is one of the most iconic wines of the world.

So, with great enthusiasm, I headed to the village to hike an easy trail through its vineyards, try its wines, and see its “New Castle”.

To be honest – the vineyards make the trip worthwhile here. They surround the village completely. This trail passed through the vineyards to the east of the village. My first surprise was seeing the galets. I had heard of them, of course. These stones both help keep weeds down, and help retain the sun’s heat (from day into night). But seeing them on the ground, and appreciating their size and texture, was another thing altogether. In one place, they were several deep on the ground, looking like so many harvested Russet potatoes, still lying in the field. (Caution: It makes for slow(er) walking.) Later, I came to a cut in a bank, and the layers were visible in the soil for at least a couple of feet!

Another thing to notice along this trail, is the number of different vine pruning/training techniques. Usually you will see one, maybe two, types of pruning. But here, they even had the Gobelet (vines shaped like a goblet), in addition to the Guyot and the Cordon de Royat. This and other interesting tidbits of information about the terroir and the viticultural practices here may be found on education boards all along the trail. (While the trail’s boards are only in French, a brochure from the tourism office (https://en.chateauneuf.com/le-sentier-viticole) provides explanations for each board in French and English.)

Finally, I noticed that this was an undulating land – more than I had expected or realized at first. With each rise and fall of a slope, around each turn of a vineyard or hedge row, I had a different long distance view. Sometimes Chateauneuf du Pape would disappear from view completely. Other times, I found myself facing the white slopes of Mount Ventoux. Cresting another slope, my old haunts the Alpilles, by Vacqueyras and Gigondas, magically appeared. Yet, I never saw the Rhone River, although the village lies not too far from it.

After I passed through the section of vineyards known as the Crau (which means stone in Provencal – per the board), I followed the trail through a wooded section. It provides the only shade for hikers on this itinerary, and is welcome, as it immediately precedes the final section of the trail, a walk along the road back to the starting point on the outskirts of the village

To return to the car, I had to walk back through the village. For such a famous wine, the village was fairly small, (and the tourism infrastructure even smaller). Its castle is a mere ruin, albeit a highly photographed one. Nonetheless, it was exciting to visit the place that may be called the birthplace of the Appellation d’Origine Controlee system, and home to former Popes and famous vineyards. Then, of course, there is the wine – in so many wineries, so many shops – to explore!

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Chateauneuf du Pape

October 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned

Located in the Southern Rhone wine region of France, Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the world’s most iconic French wines. It has historically been one of France’s most exclusive wines. Since the days of the Popes at Avignon, this wine over time improved, until it became one of the most sought after wines in Europe. Nearby, and even not so near-by wine-makers began to capitalize on its fame, and labelled their own wines “Chateauneuf du Pape.” Indignant Chateauneuf du Pape villagers lobbied the national assembly to pass a law, thus inspiring the Appellation d’Origine Controlee system.

The wines themselves (both red and white) are blends. Traditionally, up to thirteen grapes (both red and white) may be used in the red blend, although most wine-makers rely on fewer than that, and most use at least some Grenache. Other red grape varietals often include another Rhone Valley favorite Syrah, and Southern Rhone stand-ins Mourvedre and Cinsault.

White Chateauneuf du Pape wines are more difficult to find because less than ten percent of the total Chateauneuf du Pape wine production is white wine. No red varietals are allowed in the white wines, leaving the winemakers only six varietals, among them the Grenache Blanc, the Southern Rhone valley perennials Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul.

Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards are also famous for their galets. Rounded stones brought down by the Rhone over eons, they cover the vineyards in many places. Imagine stones akin to Russet potatoes strewn throughout the vineyards! They serve the practical function of reducing weeds, and catching the heat of the sun by day, releasing it at night.

What I Tasted

2015 Le P’tit Plaisir, Vin de France, Domaine Eddie Feraud: A dry white wine cuvee (Grenache, Clairette, Muscat) with medium minus gold color, spice, wood and slight floral nose, with vanilla, floral and slight wood flavors, medium acidity, smooth overall.

2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A dry white wine with a medium yellow gold color; mineral and floral nose, along with vanilla and toasted nuts flavors; medium acidity, with a very suave mouth feel and very smooth finish.

2014 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Domaine Andre Mathieu: A very dry red wine with dark minus garnet color; tobacco and red cherry nose with herbal and spicy notes, slight leather and cherry flavors, with notes of smoke, and cedar; medium tannins, very dry, with a smooth finish ending on a wisp of smoke.

2013 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Tradition, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau de la Gardine: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of spice, smoke, stewed plums, with flavors of leather, smoke, stewed red fruits; medium plus tannins, long finish.

2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge, Appellation Chateauneuf du Pape Controlee, Chateau Mont-Redon: A dry red wine with dark garnet color; nose of leather and spice, blackberry, vanilla and oak flavors; medium tannins with a smooth finish.

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Escapade au Coeur du Vignoble: Trail in a Nutshell

October 11, 2023 admin

Trail Name: Escapade au Coeur du Vignoble de Chateauneuf du Pape

Trail Type: an easy short distance circuit; well-maintained and almost about half paved, and half rough, trail surface; marking on the trail is ok, but take a map.

Length:

Total – 7.5 kilometers/4.6 miles

Convenient to:

Avignon or Orange, France

Marking:

Small maroon colored square with the Chateauneuf coat of arms (occasionally), and (15) education boards

Sample of wine education board Along the Trail

Trail Description:

A pleasant, but mostly unshaded, itinerary through parts of the famous vineyard area of Chateauneuf du Pape, providing great views, tips on local viticultural practices, and fun for the whole family (providing you wear sturdy footwear!).

Trailhead:

Chateauneuf du Pape: Avenue Louis Pasteur

Parking:

In the center of the village, not much, but there is more

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: None, but the closest stations are in Orange, Courthezon or Sorgues, all on the Orange to Avignon line. Check https://www.sncf.com/fr

Bus: Buses on the Route Orange-Sorgues, on Line 922

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:

Chateauneuf du Pape: Avenue Louis Pasteur-Chemin de la Font du Pape, to the first educative panel, through vineyards to Chemin de la Coste Froide, Chemin de la Montalivet (a narrow track), Chemin de la Nerthe, (turning onto a narrow track called Chemin Draille de la Crau, circling the vineyards of Charbonnieres Est, stair-stepping back west to Chemin de Charbonnieres, onto Route de Courthezon, then right onto a track to rejoin the original trail passing along a small wood, vineyards, then through woods back onto Chemin de la Montalivet; left onto Route de Courthezon/D92, following it back into the village

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

Chateauneuf du Pape, Avenue Saint-Pierre de Luxembourg: Musee du Vin Brotte, offers audio-guided tours, and a wine tasting.

Tasting along the Trail:

Both in the village and along the trail there are plenty of wineries to choose from!

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Chateauneuf du Pape and its Environments is a 10.8 km circuit route that has more elevation, and covers a wider variety of scenery, from village to river, as well as through vineyards. See https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-chateauneuf-du-pape-et-son-environnement/

Biking: From the Antique Stones of Orange, to the Galets (River Stones) of Chateauneuf du Pape, a challenging 35 kilometer circuit, beginning in Orange, famous for its Roman theater and other ruins, to Chateauneuf du Pape, some of which follows the well-known Via Rhona bike trail (from Lyon). See https://www.provence-cycling.co.uk/equipment/orange/cycle-route-from-the-stone-to-the-pebbly-terroir/provence-713016-2.html

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/chateauneuf-du-pape-33685/tourist-office-chateauneuf-pape-7166.htm ; and more specifically for this area https://www.poptourisme.fr/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/en/route/hiking-route/france/sentier-viticole-chateauneuf-du-pape/266646253/

Comments:

This route leads past 15 numbered education boards about vineyards and winemaking, in order.

The trail is designed with short-cuts (shorter versions), or an extension (longer version) (at or near sign 10, ) to the Charbonnieres Est and the Crau vineyard areas, which adds about 2 km, (1.25 miles) to make it about 7.5 kilometers in total.

Germany, Hiking

Communing with Vines

September 12, 2023 admin

This hike can be defined as slow hiking. According to the Cambridge Dictionary, slow hiking is the act of going on a long walk through countryside, without the pressure of going fast, or climbing hills, or making a distance. It is meant to be an activity accessible to all fitness levels, that predisposes participants for actually enjoying nature. Thus, it sets up a framework for communing with nature.

The Steigerwald area I hiked is ideal for slow tourism, defined as far from mass tourism sites, with a focus on local culture, history and traditions. It is characterized by low (and slow) mobility, emphasizing sustainability. The Steigerwald wine district is surely Franconia’s least known district. Iphofen (see here), and Bad Windsheim (see here), are the two biggest towns – delightful, but small. Agricultural pursuits, mostly devoted to vines and grains, cover much of the rest of the area. Thus, I could slow hike in a slow tourism area, and take time to reflect on vines and communities supporting them.

Small Section of the Steigerwald Nature Park

Mainly though, this area is known for the Steigerwald Nature Park, which covers about 431 square miles, in the Franconian/Bavarian border area west of Nuremberg. The hills are heavily forested and popular with some hikers for their unspoiled nature. My hike though, on the southwest corner of the park, lay right at the junction of the trees and vines. Not only could I enjoy both vineyards and forest, I could do so in peace and quiet.

And then There Were None: Clear Vine/Tree Delineation

I began just below the Weinparadiesscheune, a popular wine-bar with local wine (and food) on offer. Early morning patrons, on that warm, sunny late August day, began to fill up the outdoor seats. This part of the hike remained on asphalt as it went up the western side of the hill, along the upper reaches of vines facing the villages of Bullenheim, Seinsheim and Huettenheim.

Weinparadiesscheune – Set Between Forest and Vineyard

Vintners from these small villages work the vines on the short, but steep, slopes, producing Silvaner, Mueller-Thurgau and Bacchus wine, named after the Greco-Roman god of wine. The Bacchus varietal is relatively new, but it has taken hold in this region (one of the few places it may be found). Like the god, Bacchus wine is popular, and inspires (when taken in moderation, of course!)

After a steep climb off the asphalt and into the woods, I was onto the Tannenberg (Pine Mountain), nowadays mostly devoid of trees and covered in vines instead. On the north side of this hill overlooking Huettenheim, there is a Jewish cemetery. In a quiet spot, well suited for contemplation, reminiscent of two similar cemeteries in remote areas of Baden I’d seen, recalling that once vibrant Jewish communities coexisted within even remote villages.

After that, the trail ran south along a shallow valley separating it from the main Steigerwald park. Once leaving the Tannenberg hill, the trail entered woodlands again. As the modest incline increased so did the heat, but fortunately now, the meandering trail was shaded by majestic trees.

It was in this same forest, according to legend, that Empress Kunigunde, lost her way. She made an oath to God that she would found a church there, if she could find her way out of the woods. Sure enough, right off the trail lay the ruins of Kunigunde’s church. (The only problematic issue being the fact that the ruins date to about 400 years after her death in 1033.) Nonetheless, they provide a nice opportunity to relax, soak up the atmosphere of an earlier era, and enjoy the birdsong.

After my contemplations on a Greco-Roman god, a Catholic church, and a former Jewish community, I realized that like the Greco-Roman communities of old, and the Jewish and Catholic communities, all shared an appreciation of wine that transcended their differences. Such is often the way with wine aficionados as well. Completing the circuit, I made my way back to the Weinparadiesscheune, to enjoy a glass or two of the local wine, made right here, in full communion with nature and fellow wine-lovers, as has been done for centuries.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Seinsheim Bullenheim

September 11, 2023 admin

What I Learned

Of the Franconia (Franken) wine region’s districts, the Steigerwald district is undoubtedly less well-known than the other two (the Maindreieck around Wuerzburg, and the Mainviereck), and consequently, one of the least visited. The Steigerwald is a tranquil area, focused largely on agriculture. One major attraction is the relatively large Steigerwald Nature park, with wide swathes of tree-covered hills. But on the edges of those hills are vineyards. The vineyard area is known as Frankenberger Schlossstueck, with three vineyards – the Hohenbuehl, the Tannenberg, and the Paradies, belonging to the villages of Seinsheim, Huettenheim and Bullenheim respectively.

Mueller-Thurgau, Silvaner and Bacchus are the three most common grape varieties planted here. The Bacchus varietal was created by crossing a Riesling with a Silvaner, then with a Mueller-Thurgau. The three parent varietals all do relatively well in cooler climate, which is why these, along with Bacchus, are the most planted varietals in this district. These grapes tend to produce light, fruity, white wines, a delight to drink chilled. Normally neither as acidic, nor as aromatic as Riesling, both the Silvaner and Bacchus wines are less-intense alternatives to Riesling, and are found almost only in Franconia.

What I Tasted

2017 Mueller-Thurgau, Kabinett, Trocken, Paradies Wein: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of green apple and gooseberry, with vanilla, green apple, and slight stone fruit flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart lengthy finish.

2017 Bacchus, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Winzerhof Klaus Markert (Weigenheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium gold color; apricot, white peach and vanilla aromas and flavors; medium acidity.

2016 Bacchus, Bullenheimer Paradies, Kabinett, Halbtrocken, Weinbau Erich Schwemmer (Seinsheim): A semi-dry white wine, with medium minus gold color; neutral nose, with apricot, white peach and vanilla flavors; medium minus acidity.