Tag Archives: Hiking and Biking European Wine Country

Stein and the Schreckberg

May 12, 2020 admin

Schreckberg, specifically the Steiner Schreck, Hund, Altenburg, and Steiner Pfaffenberg are four named vineyards along the itinerary on this hike above the town of Stein an der Donau, Austria. The Krems River is a major tributary to the Danube. The Kremstal wine region has Krems, on the Krems River and the Danube, as its main city. Krems has the little town of Stein an der Donau attached to it. Although Stein’s vineyards form part of the Kremstal wine region, it is easy to see why some experts believe that this area belongs to the Wachau wine region. Situated along the Danube upriver from Krems, Stein vineyards flow into those of the Wachau by Loiben, at the end of a visually dramatic and historically significant section of the Danube. A hike along this section of the Danube is a fairy tale come true.

This itinerary granted the typical three wishes for an ideal vineyard hike: beautiful natural scenery, charming small towns, and renowned vineyards. On magical moments here and there along the trail, all three lined up for a memorable photo opportunity.

My hike began along the Steiner Kellergasse, or Stein’s “Cellar Lane,” where the vintners had their cellars, and in some cases, still do. This area is just below the vineyards, on the edge of the built-up area of town, and climbs uphill toward the vineyards. Soon I was in them. No doubt Stein is still very much a wine village.

This final section of vines in the Kremstal appellation, has some unique parcels, with unique soils and aspects. The vineyards on the Schreckberg are steep and terraced. Each terrace seems uniquely formed to provide the best aspect for a few rows of vines. From a distance, these look charmingly higgledy piggledy, but up close, they make perfect sense. Deep cuts between parcels expose the subsoils, showing deep sedimentary layers. On finally reaching the top of the Schreckberg, the trail circled around to head back down into town.

From this perspective, beautiful views of the Danube and the forested hilltops of the right bank. Upriver, the Danube twists and turns through a relatively narrow valley flanked by cliffs, with vineyards on the left bank facing south, and forests of trees (to include apricot trees at lower elevations) on the right. The water flows swiftly and silently along this section. It is difficult to believe that this peaceful spot is only 60 minutes by car or 75 minutes by train from Vienna!

Separated by a road in a deep cut (the Reisperbachtal road), the next part of the hike went up the Steiner Pfaffenberg. It is closer to the Danube, rising seemingly from its narrow bank. Here, after passing the Altenburg ruins, and the Altenburger Weinberg Cross, made in part of vines, the noise and bustle of the town really fades away. The vineyards were quiet, and the terraces looked more regular, not quite as fantastical.

After a woodland interlude, the trail led down to Foerthof, a hamlet by the river with a medieval chapel of note. Following the river downstream, I soon reached Stein, and entered the historical section by an old gate. Nearby were well-maintained pastel-colored houses and shops, many with simple, but elegant Baroque facades. A slight detour led up to the parish church above the Steiner Landstrasse, and a set of stairs from the church yard led back down to it.

While it was one of the shorter hikes I have ever done, it managed to hit all the highlights of this magical district of Austria, and had the advantage of having great wine, which like an elixir, restores one’s idealistic belief in the myth of wine and eternal well-being!

Austria, Wines

Wine Notes: Kremstal

May 11, 2020 admin

What I Learned:

Kremstal (Krems Valley), in Krems, Austria, along with its associated village of Stein, and a narrow band of area on the opposite side of the Danube, form a wine district known as Kremstal. This district lies on both sides of the Danube River and its tributary, the Krems River. Vineyards lie above the communities on high slopes overlooking the communities and the rivers. Loess and sedementary soils predominate in this region.

Noted Ried (named vineyards) in Stein are: (from up to down river) Steiner Pfaffenberg and Hund; with other esteemed vineyards being: Pitschental, Altenburg, Grillenparz, Danzern, and Schreck.

Wine-making in the Krems region dates back about 2000 years. As Christianity moved east, monastic organizations revitalized the tradition. The oldest vintner association in Europe, the Hauerinnung Krems-Stein, has been here since 1442. In 1938 it founded Winzer Krems, a name that endures today. Its cooperative winery, Sandgrube 13, is located at the same address in Krems, and worth a visit.

Like the neighboring Wachau wine region, the Gruener Veltliner is the single-most cultivated grape, accounting for half the annual production. While grown elsewhere, this grape, and the white wine it produces, is Austria’s claim to fame in the wine world. Riesling is the second most cultivated grape. White varietals predominate here, and other white varieties include, Rivaner known elsewhere as Mueller-Thurgau), Muskatteller, Neuburger, and Pinot Blanc and Gris. Grown to a lesser extent, the red varietals include Sankt Laurent and Zweigelt.

What I tasted:

2016 Rivaner, Winzerbraut, Qualitaetswein, Halbtrocken, Winzer Krems (Niederoesterreich): An off-dry white wine with medium minus gold color; a nose of green apple and ripe white peach, toasted nuts, peach and slight spice flavors; medium acidity, nicely balanced overall.

2015 Sauvignon Blanc, Kellermeister Privat, Niederoesterreich, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Winzer Krems: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; light boxwood, gooseberry nose, with boxwood and citrus flavors, with a hint of spice; medium plus acidity.

2015 Gruener Veltliner, Frauengrund, Kremstal DAC, Josef Dockner: A dry white wine with light gold color; a floral and spicy nose, both sweet and sharp; floral, honey, tangy spice, vanilla and grilled peach flavors; mild acidity.

2014 Riesling, Ried Grillenparz, Erste Lage, Kremstal DAC Reserve, Weingut Stadt Krems: A dry white wine with light gold color; a sweet grape nose, and tropical fruits, turpentine, and spicy, mustard-like flavors, with a hint of minerality; medium acidity with a smooth finish.

2013 Gruener Veltliner Steinberg, DAC, Weingut Hutter: A dry white wine with a dark gold color; floral and fruity notes with a hint of grapefruit, very mild acidity.

2013 Riesling, Stein Terrassen, Weingut Hutter: A dry white wine with light gold color; floral notes with a slight hint of grapefruit; medium acidity.

Austria, Hiking, Nutshell

Wein Wandern Stein: Trail in a Nutshell

May 11, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Wein Wandern Stein (Unofficial name)

Trail Type: Short distance hiking circuit; almost exclusively paved, well maintained, but the route itself is not exclusively marked.

Length: Approximately 6 kilometers/3.7 miles

Convenient to: Krems an der Donau, Austria

Marking: No trail-specific marking, although throughout this itinerary there are markings for other trails (to include the Welterbesteig signs, as shown below), and signposts (see the photo below) indicating named places and the “Welterbesteig Wachau” trail.

Trail Description:

An easy circuit through the village of Stein (part of Krems), and through the vineyards above the village, returning along the Danube. It focuses both on the village’s long-established viticultural traditions, and the vineyards that made it all possible.

Trailhead:

Stein an der Donau: Steinerkellergasse x Doktor-Karl-Dorrek-Strasse

Parking:

Krems/Stein:

Along Steiner Donaulaende, there are many parking spots, but on weekdays and summers, all likely will be taken; On Steiner Donaulaende, by Gottweigerhofgasse, a small parking lot.

Parking Garages on Yachthafenstr and Steiner Landstr x Anibas Promenade

Stein/Foerthof: Along Route 3/Donau Bundestrasse, there are two or three small, unimproved parking areas along the Danube.

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: Post bus serves Stein an der Donau. Check www.postbus.at

Rail:

OBB services Krems, connecting with nearby towns, and Vienna

Wachaubahn provides seasonal service upriver from Krems to Grimsing, to include Stein, Loiben (Unter and Ober-), Duernstein, Weissenkirchen in der Donau, Spitz an der Donau and Willendorf

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Stein: Doktor-Karl-Dorrek-Str x Steinerkellergasse, Steinspreng (at signs for Tullner and Mariazellerweg Trails), Guetersweg Schreckberg, circle counterclockwise on the Schreckberg lanes, return to Steinspreng; Right on Steiner Kellergasse, over train tracks by tunnel; Reisperbachtalstr, stairs (with W), on an path to an unnamed, paved agricultural lane, first passing the ruins of Altenburg castle, then the Altenburg Weinbergkreuz (a crucifix of vine stocks), Pfaffenbergweg-Foerthofstr-Steiner Donaulaende-Steinerlandstr-Reisperbachtalstr-Hintere Fahrstr-Frauenberg, stairs (at the St Nikolaus church) down to Steiner Landstr

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

Lining the Steiner Kellergasse are many nicely maintained wine cellars, some of which are still in use as such!

Tasting along the Trail:

There are several “Heuriger” (seasonal wine taverns), along the trail, and numerous taverns, bars and restaurants in town.

Alternative Options:

Walking: The Welterbesteig Wachau trail begins in Krems proper, and continues upriver to Melk (the famous abbey) on the high route along the Danube and sometimes inland through the vineyards and villages along the way. From Melk, it continues downriver back to Krems for a total of 180 kilometers. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.krems.info/de/home/

Trail specific: None

Comments:

I adapted this circuit from one suggested by a local hiker, hence no definitive markings, or references to it online or in town literature. Therefore, there is no trail specific signage, although this itinerary does follow a section of the Welterbesteig Wachau trail leading from Resiperbachtal Strasse to Pfaffenbergweg, and then the two itineraries diverge at Foerthof

To extend the hike slightly, follow the Welterbesteig Wachau upriver along the Pfaffenbergweg, to the border between the Kremstal and Wachau appellations. To close the circuit, head downhill to the hamlet of Rothenhof and follow along footpath along the river paralleling the main road (B3) back to Foerthofstrasse. Continue the itinerary above from Fuerthof.

France, Hiking

Savoring Savigny

May 2, 2020 admin

Like any fine Burgundian wine, Savigny should be savored. Not just the wine either: the sights and sounds of its sites merit time and attention as well.

Savigny-les-Beaune, as its full name indicates, is located near Beaune, the main hub of the Cote de Beaune wine district. Like Beaune, this small town has its own appellation, covering both red (Pinot Noir) and white (Chardonnay) wines. It is in a beautiful setting. The village essentially follows along a narrow river valley, backed by high hills, and surrounded by forests and vineyards. While most visitors search for the wine, I wanted to explore the town’s vineyards and forests, as well as savor the quaint corners of the historical center.

The first sensation to hit me, aside from the bucolic scenery, was the soft scent of pine. After passing through the outskirts of town, the trail passes through a wooded area made up of many pine trees. It was an aromatic climb uphill, as I breathed deeply of the forest scents. Pines do well in poorer soils, as do vines, which appeared as soon as I crested the hill.

Chunks of limestone dotted the reddish soil surrounding the vines. Limestone is a prominent feature in the soil here. So much so that the rocks pulled from the soil are often piled together. Called “murgers,” these piles represent the backbreaking work of the vintners. Along much of this section of the trail, murgers would appear, the new serving as breaks between vines, and the old slyly hiding under a thick growth of vegetation in thickets and copses.

Following the passage through vineyards, a long descent through woodland ensued. The trail was rougher, but evidently well used. The shady interlude was greatly appreciated. It terminated in a “combe” a narrow valley not defined by a river. There are many combes in Burgundy, and they are well marked on maps.

Upon leaving the combe, the trail headed uphill through more vineyards. In fact, from the top of the climb, the amazing sight of acres and acres of vineyards spread out below me, south and east, all the way to Beaune. (See the feature photo at the top.) The Cotes de Beaune is no less impressive than the Cotes de Nuits when it comes to the sheer numbers of vines planted on the famous slopes of the Cote d’Or. The trail headed downhill. It twisted and turned as it threaded its way through the woods, carefully inscribed between moss-covered limestone walls. Treasures as yet unseen lay behind these walls.

What lies behind the walls is evident only upon reaching the wide agricultural road at mid-slope. I turned around to discover that on this partially wooded slope lies the vast majority of the town’s Premier Cru: Aux Serpentieres, Petits Godeaux, Aux Gravains. Further down the slope, I could see many lieux-dit, named parcels, like the Aux Grands Liards parcel. The grapes here made up the village appellation wines. Someone thoughtfully stationed a picnic table overlooking the town’s glorious vineyards. But I pressed on…

Soon after that, I came back into town. Homes and caves all constructed in limestone line the narrow lanes, ghostly white and just as quiet in the afternoon sun. The sound of a small river announced the Rhoin. An old washhouse, lined the northern bank. Every town in Burgundy seems to have one, and this one is was located just outside the castle gates.

The Chateau de Savigny is many things. A winery, an historical site, a museum site with eclectic collections, including, but not limited to, displays on wine-making, motorcycles, old cars, and old fighter jets. Some of the last are visible from the trail, as it circles around the south side of town, back to the official start. Not something ordinarily seen on a vineyard trail! This final leg comes with another ascent, more vineyards, a delightful section of forest, and descent followed by a short meander along the Rhoin, providing a musical interlude.

Many people use Beaune as a staging point for visits to the nearby wine villages. But however good her wineries may be, Savigny, like so many other villages of the Cote de Beaune, must be savored with more than just a cursory tour of its wineries.

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Cotes de Beaune Savigny

May 1, 2020 admin

What I Learned

The Burgundian wine region known as the Cote d’Or has a northern section and a southern section. Cote de Beaune is the name of the southern section. This part of the Cote d’Or famously produces some of the most esteemed white wines in the world, in addition to some very good red wines, which is the reverse of the northern section known as the Cotes de Nuits.

The Cote de Beaune is generally speaking more famous for its white wines, such as those from the crus in Meursault, or Puligny-Montrachet or Chassagne-Montrachet. However, Savigny-les-Beaune is known primarily for its red wines. Like Pommard, a bit further south in the same district, and also well-known for its reds, Savigny lies at the mouth of a transversal valley. This type of valley, formed by the Rhoin River in Savigny, crosses a crestline, the Cote d’Or, at right angles. Hence in Savigny, this means a narrow, fairly protected valley with steep sides, with west- and south-facing vineyards, ideal for vines.

While there are no Grand Cru in Savigny, there are just over 20 Premier Cru, perhaps the most well-known being Aux Vergelesses, at the border of the neighboring town Pernand-Vergelesses. The village has its own Village Appellation, Savigny-les-Beaune Controlee, as well as its Premier Cru Appellations, for both red and white wines.

The Pinot Noir wines of Savigny-les-Beaune have good aging potential. (In fact, one bottle I had purchased then stored, I only got around to drinking 11 years later, and found it soft, and rich in flavors and mouthfeel.) In any event, the wines in Savigny are good, representative Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, with as good a price-to-quality ratio as a wine lover is likely to find anywhere along the Cote d’Or.

What I Tasted

2014 Pinot Noir, Aux Grands Liards, Appellation Savigny-les-Beaune Controlee, Domaine Giboulot (Savigny): A dry red wine with medium red brick color; a floral and peppery spice nose, with forward flavors of vanilla, oak and red cherry flavors; medium tannins.

2008 Pinot Noir, Savigny-les-Beaune, Appellation Savigny-les-Beaune Controlee, Domaine Andre Morey: A dry red wine with medium plus brick red color; a nose of spice and light tobacco; flavors of vanilla, slight fruit, and a hint of herbaceousness; medium tannins. (Consumed in 2019!)

2007 Pinot Noir, Savigny-les-Beaune, Appellation Savigny-les-Beaune Controlee, Domaine du Chateau de Meursault: A dry red wine with light medium ruby red color; slight red berry and spice nose, with flavors of the same; medium plus tannins.

2006 Pinot Noir, Aux Clous, Appellation Savigny-les Beaune Premier Cru Controlee, Pierre Andre: A dry red wine with medium plus ruby red color; spice, red berry and wood nose, with stewed red berries and spice flavors; high minus tannins.

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Chemin des Vignes: Trail in a Nutshell

May 1, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Chemin des Vignes (AKA : Circuit 5)

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; well-maintained and with a variety of surfaces from rough and scree to tarmac. While trail-specific signage can vary (see below), overall marking on the trail is rather good.

Length:

Total – 11.5 kilometers/7 miles

Convenient to: Beaune, France

Marking:

Painted yellow bar(s) indicating trail and/or direction, and sometimes a yellow number 5; the occasional yellow sign with a black number 5 on it; yellow signs on posts with black letters indicating PR 5.

Trail Description: This trail has a great variety of terrain, elevation, scenery, and flora, all along a relatively easy circuit trail that circles the small town of Savigny-les Beaune and its well-known vineyards.

Trailhead:

Official: Savigny-les-Beaune, Rue des Chanterives

Alternate: Rue General Leclerc x Rue Soeur Gaby

Parking:

Savigny-les-Beaune: Rue des Chanterives x Route de Bouilland/D2(opposite camping site)

Savigny-les-Beaune: Limited parking along the street of Rue General Leclerc

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: The Cote&Bus company runs Line 10 round-trip from Beaune to Savigny-les-Beaune. It appears to service a school route, as well as commuters into Beaune, so be sure to check the website (www.coteetbus.fr) for changes or required reservations.

Rail: Nearest rail service is in nearby Beaune

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (North-South/Clockwise)

Savigny-les-Beaune: Chemin des Vermots, also seen on some maps as Chemin de la Grande Chaume, right onto a straight trail through woods all uphill, vineyards, then a long stretch through forest; Cross Chemin de Citeaux, along the Combe de Barboron (a vale), follow R du Jarron about 150 meters uphill, turn right through vines, then forest; downhill between walls to picnic table, downhill on the agricultural road/C7; Savigny-les-Beaune: southeast on R Dr. Guyot/D2, R des Porches, R Soeur Gaby, cross the creek and continue straight onto a grass path), past sports fields (fighter jet collection on the right), R des Combattants, R Chanoine Donin-Chemin des Carrieres, parallel the highway for about 400 meters; through forest; downhill on R des Fatains, R des Petites Chanterives

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

None observed!

Attractions on or near Trail:

Chateau de Savigny has a museum with collections pertaining to wine and agricultural vehicles, as well as Abarth racing vehicles and fighter jets.

Tasting along the Trail:

Several wineries in town, and at the chateau.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Beaune has several hikes around its vineyards, just south of Savigny. For an idea of one of them, see the Nutshell here. See others at http://www.beaune-rando-vigne.com/fr/circuits-vignoble-beaune/

Biking: Veloroute Voie des Vignes, an approximately 30-kilometer-long trail from Beaune to Santenay to Nolay, mostly on dedicated bike path!

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/

Trail specific: https://www.beaune-tourism.com/ideas-for-round-trips/circuit-5-the-chemin-des-vignes-vine-route-615157

Comments:

A great hike for even people only moderately in shape, in an unspoiled Cote de Beaune wine village.

Germany, Hiking

Spring is for Silvaner

April 12, 2020 admin

I think Silvaner is a perfect spring wine. Slightly cooled, it has ripe stone fruit and fresh green grass/herbaceous flavors with a hint of minerality, and a fuller mouthfeel than Riesling but with less acidity. Perfect for sunny but cool days when a Riesling’s bracing acidity could bring a chilly versus a warm sensation overall.

A combination of warm, sunny Spring weather and a hiking itinerary in homage to Silvaner lured me to Eisenheim in Franconia’s Maindreieck district, where Silvaner first made its official appearance in Germany in 1659. Fortunately, Eisenheim’s riverside location is great not just for vines, but also for hikes.

Commemorating Eisenheim: Silvaner’s German Homebase

Beginning at the edge of the Main River, flowing slowly but inexorably along gentle green banks, the itinerary crossed the famous Main bicycle trail. In addition to hiking, this area is also ideal for bicyclists. Those who enjoy easy, leisurely itineraries will love the Main Bicycle (Main Radweg) trail, one of the favorites in Germany. Those who prefer a more challenging rides will follow one of several trails uphill, as did my hiking itinerary. The Silvaner Erlebnis trail leads through the quiet village, before entering into the vineyards. Soon, I was hiking over a hill and into a dale, amongst hectares and hectares (acres and acres) of vines that give the trail its name. Along the way, occasional signboards (only in German though) provide information on Silvaner, and the viticultural and vinicultural aspects of wine-making here.

Once I finished the final, gentle ascent, I had my first glimpse of the Main River and the Steigerwald mountains. The trail proceeded along the tree-line paralleling the top of the ridgeline. I was glad it was early spring, because there was very little shade, and except for one tiny spot, I found myself entirely in the sun. The trail made its way through the south-facing vineyards, heading downriver. The twists and turns of the path offered different perspectives on the river and distant mountains.

Soon the village of Untereisenheim came into view. The Weingut Hirn provides a unique and colorful visual cue. The winery’s main building is a Hundertwasser-esque building, a whimsical creation that invites comparisons between Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia basilica in Barcelona, and the Hundertwasser House in Vienna. The winery is open to the public, which gives visitors a chance to admire the building up close, and taste some excellent wine as well!

From Untereisenheim, the trail headed through the lower vineyards back to Obereisenheim. Benches along the way invite hikers to relax and take in the views. Peace and quiet predominate here, and a spell on a bench here and there, with friends and a glass of wine, add to the enjoyment of it all! Zum Wohl!

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Franconia’s Silvaner

April 11, 2020 admin

What I Learned

Along the Main River in Franconia (Franken, in German), there are three wine districts of good repute: Maindreieck, Mainviereck, and the Steigerwald. This post focuses on the Maindreieck district only.

The Main, flowing basically from east to west, is a tributary to the Rhine River. The river makes three consecutive and dramatic curves close to the heart of Franconia, essentially going from east-west, to north-south, then south-north by Ochsenfurt, before curving roughly east-west again. The Maindreieck is thus a triangle (Dreieck) of land surrounded on three sides by the Main River. This area has become a paragon of viticulture in south central Germany. The most important and undoubtedly best-known town for wine culture in this area is Wuerzburg.

In Franconia, Riesling is not king, as it is in many other wine-growing regions of Germany. Silvaner plays that role here. In fact, it is one of the most important varietals for this particular area. Known officially in Germany as the Gruener Silvaner (Green Silvaner), genetically-speaking it is the same varietal as the less widely spread Blauer and Roter (blue and red) Silvaner mutations. Franconian vintners have grown Silvaner since the 17^th century. Like the river, it came to Germany from the east, Austria, and moved westward, as far as the Rhein-Hessen wine region. It now grows even in the United States. The first definitive reference to it in Germany occurred in Eisenheim (location of a “Silvaner” trail), thus this small Franconian village is known as its German birthplace.

Many locals prefer Silvaner over Riesling. I find it the perfect spring-time wine. Slightly cooled, it has ripe stone fruit and fresh green grass/herbaceous flavors with a hint of minerality, with less acidity and a fuller mouthfeel than Riesling. Perfect for sunny but cool days when a Riesling’s bracing acidity could produce a chilly versus a warm overall sensation. Analogous to the season, it is usually produced to drink young, and those lucky enough to have a bottle of this wine should probably drink it within a couple of years.

What I Tasted

2017 Silvaner, Kabinett, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Hirn (Eisenheim): A dry white wine with medium minus white gold color, floral nose with a hint of spice; surprisingly neutral on the palette; smooth mouthfeel with medium acidity.

2017 Blauer Silvaner, Obereisenheim Hoell, Kabinett, Trocken Deutscher Praedikatswein, Weingut Kramer (Eisenheim): A dry white wine with medium minus gold; on the nose a spiciness reminiscent of cardamom, with floral, green wood, and spicy mustard flavors; medium plus acidity, with a full but tingly mouthfeel.

2015 Silvaner, Spaetlese, Grosse Gewaechs, Trocken, Praedikatswein, Weingut Hirn: A dry white wine with medium yellow gold color, spice cinnamon, vanilla, floral; cantaloupe, vanilla, apricot; medium acidity.

2016 Blauer Silvaner, Trocken, VDP Gutswein, Weingut Arnold (Randersacker): A dry white wine with medium gold color with a hint of rose; nose of red apple, vanilla and spice, with red apple, vanilla and slight toasted nuts flavors; smooth mouthfeel, medium plus acidity, but with a touch of honey after.

2016 Silvaner, Wuerzburger Schlossberg, VDP Erste Lage, Trocken, Staatlicher Hofkeller Wuerzburg: A dry white wine with rich yellow gold color; with green apple nose, and a spicy, green apple flavor; medium acidity with a smooth, crisp finish.

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Silvaner Erlebnisweg: Trail in a Nutshell

April 11, 2020 admin

Trail Name: Silvaner Erlebnisweg

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, marking on the trail good in most places

Length:

Total – 6.8 kilometers/4.25 miles

Convenient to: Volkach, or Kitzingen, Germany

Marking:

Look for two types.

Green hills, blue river and white ferry on a which square background.

White letter C on a square, red(dish) background (indicating where the Silvaner Erlebnisweg diverges from the principle or other trails).

Trail Description:

The trail leads through mostly unshaded vineyards situated on gently rolling terrain in the Maindreieck, on primarily agricultural service lanes. This easy hike affords ample opportunities to admire distant vistas over the Main River valley, and plenty of benches (and the occasional picnic table) from which to enjoy them.

Trailhead:

Obereisenheim – An der Mainau/Dorfstrasse

Parking:

Obereisenheim – An der Mainau

Public Transportation Options:

Bus: The Frankenbus 8110 services this area from Kitzingen and Volkach. Check VVM (Verkehrsverbund Mainfranken) and VGN (Verkehrsverbund Grossraum Nuernberg) websites for schedules and routes.

Suggested Stages:

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Obereisenheim: Hintergasse, Marktplatz, Wipfelderstr, Setzweg, Buehlweg, cross Schwanfelder Strasse; Vineyards; back across Schwanfelder Strasse; long vineyard loop (almost to Dipbacherstr); Hertleinsbergweg, Bergstr

Representative Trail Photos:

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

WG Hirn is a winery designed in the Hundertwasser architectural style, and has acclaimed red and GG Silvaner wines!

Tasting along the Trail:

Weingut (WG) Jung, WG Schuler, WG Kramer, WG Reich, WG Ruegamer, in addition to WG Hirn, lie either directly on or near the trail.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: In nearby Fahr, the Obst-Wein-Main trail/Trail D circuit offers a short (3.5 kilometer) and a long (9.8 kilometer) version.

Biking: Eisenheim is on one of Germany’s favorite bike trails, the Main Radweg. Its itinerary follows mostly along the Main River for about 340 kilometers to the Rhine River at Wiesbaden, much of it on dedicated bike path. See the Nutshell here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.frankentourismus.de/orte/eisenheim-169/

Trail specific: http://www.wandermap.net/de/route/3493744-silvaner-erlebnisweg-markt-eisenheim/#/z11/49.8300104,10.1214981/terrain

Comments:

The ferries at Obereisenheim and nearby Fahr make a fun three-minute Main River crossing for hikers and bikers in the area.

Hiking, Switzerland

Worrenberg’s Wines and Vines

April 2, 2020 admin

Zurich, Swiss financial capital with a major international airport and European travel hub, was not far away, as the map clearly showed. The occasional aircraft loomed overhead as a reminder. But otherwise, this corner of Switzerland was rural, peaceful and green – great characteristics for any hiking trail.

The Worrenberg Weinwanderweg trail route highlighted the vineyards and wines of three small villages. All villages were in the Canton of Zurich, but they were closer to Schaffhausen, the famous city of the Rheinfalls on the Rhine River. The high-point of the trail, literally and figuratively speaking, was the vineyard area known as the Worrenberg, a south-facing slope of sufficient steepness to make it ideal for planting vines in this area.

Zurich comes within what is known as the Deutsche Schweiz (German Switzerland), that part of Switzerland using German as its principle language. The Deutsche Schweiz has several different wine appellations, and in the region of Zurich, there is the Zuercher Weinland, a wine district not far from the wine region of Thurgau, centering around the Thur River, with the Rhine River to the west. It is a hilly region, not a mountainous one. Hence this short trail is an easy trail for families.

I began in the village of Berg am Irchel, which refers to the higher elevation south of the town. While there were a couple of wineries and a couple of taverns, it was difficult to see how people earned their livings. As I hiked along a couple of lanes, I passed a small “schloss”, a “palace” in name only, and soon entered the town’s small vineyard area.

Once out of the vineyard area, the trail followed along a creek, shaded by old trees. The path led to Flaach, the second of the three villages, and the largest with almost 1300 residents. Nonetheless, I did not see a living soul as I meandered across the main street.

Leaving Flaach, winding up the side of the Worrenberg, were signs that provided information about viticulture and viniculture. The Worrenberg is the largest vineyard area in this district of the Zurich appellation, and several regional vintners had parcels here. A few vintner huts lined the way, including the one associated with the region’s largest winery: the Staatskellerei Zurich. Here and there, interesting perspectives on the villages and surrounding countryside appeared, to include the third village: Volken.

Soon I was walking along the deserted streets of Volken, past farmhouses and tidy Swiss residences. The center of town held a tavern, the Wirtschaft zur Post (closed), opposite a tiny grocery store conjoined with the Post Office. The warm greeting of the woman attending the store was enthusiastic and heartfelt. I imagine not many “foreigners”, let along locals, come in. But tiny or not, the store had a relatively large wine section, which luckily included local wines. And the one person I saw that day was an enthusiastic booster of the local wine industry. As she helped me choose the best selection of wines from local vintners, I realized that even when you think you are in barely inhabited countryside, you can always find somebody willing to talk about wine.