Tag Archives: hiking

Tra Santi e Vigne: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Tra Santi e Vigne (Amid Saints and Vineyards)

Trail Type: Short distance trail, in the Piedmont region of Italy; varied trail surfaces from paved, to hard-pack, to grass, to soft sand or mud, somewhat maintained, but the route itself is not sufficiently marked to follow without a map or GPX coordinates.

Length: total – approximately 9 kilometers/ 5.5 miles

Convenient to: Asti, or Casale Monferrato, Italy

Marking: Both a trailhead sign and rectangular signs with red and white stripes overwritten “740”

Sign: Tra Santi e Vigne Trailhead
Sign: Tra Santi e Vigne Trailhead

 

Trail 740 Marking
Trail 740 Marking

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A Tribute to Mueller-Thurgau

 

The Lake Constance Region tourism information promotes its “Mediterranean feel”. Nonetheless, the weather can be cold, wet, and windy, especially in early spring or late fall. (See the photo below.)  Vintners here would often suffer bad harvests for years in a row. But thanks to local man, Hermann Mueller, the industry gained a new lease on life.

View of Reichenau Island
View of Reichenau Island

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Discovering Silvaner’s German Roots

 

This outing served my purpose well: a trip into the Franconian wine region’s Steigerwald district, to view vineyards; hike, then drink some quality wine; and do it all in under 7 hours.

Castell, a small village, far from bustling towns, but possessed of quality vineyards and a very good wine estate, fit the bill. A series of circuits meanders through its surrounding vineyards, all the while circling the tiny, picturesque village they support.

Duck Pond, Castell
Duck Pond, Castell

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Casteller Wine Walks: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Casteller Weinspaziergaenge

Trail Type: One circuit of the outside segments of four shorter wine hiking circuits; gentle inclines on either paved, or hard-packed surface; well maintained and mostly (but not always) marked with the circuit name.

Length(s):

Large Trail: Casteller Weinspaziergaenge: circa 12 kilometers/ 7.5 miles

Segments: (each circuit total)

Greuter Bastel Circuit: 7.6 kilometers/ 4.75 miles

Schlossberg Circuit: 2.3 kilometers/ 1.4 miles

Hohnart Circuit: 2.5 kilometers/ 1.5 miles

Kugelspiel Circuit: 4 kilometers/ 2.5 miles

Convenient to: Kitzingen, Germany

Marking: Varies by circuit name, although “Casteller Weg” follows the outside edges of the inclusive circuit around Castell, and is mostly identical with Casteller Weinspaziergaenge. (See photo above for signage.)

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A Flowery Winter Hike

 

Fleurie means flowery, which this village undoubtedly is in spring and summer. But on my winter weekend break it was wet and windy. The weather only worsened as time went on. The rain turned into downpours. But after almost two days of rain, the forecasts called for a two to three-hour break in the rains. I decided to embark on one of Fleurie’s four circuit trails before leaving the area. Four great trails, seemingly designed for someone like me: wanting to hike, but with some time constraints. A great and convenient feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois (Between Vines and Woods) series of trails in Fleurie, is this: They are circuits that radiate out from the village in increasingly wider circles. Therefore, hikers can choose between one or another depending on time, capabilities, or in this case, weather.

Optimistically choosing the 12 kilometer (red) circuit, I set off from the Place de l’Eglise. But within 10 minutes, rain began to fall. A quick look at the sky confirmed that thick black clouds were rolling in faster than anticipated. So I switched to the four kilometer circuit instead. It was an easy decision to make on the spot. Should the downpours suddenly return, the map showed that this circuit also allowed for a couple of possible shortcuts, on tarmac, no less. This kind of flexibility created by interconnectivity is another great feature of the Entre Vignes et Bois trail series.

Village of Fleurie
Village of Fleurie

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Wuerttembergischer Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Wuerttembergischer Weinwanderweg

Trail Type: Long distance; often but not always paved, fairly well maintained, but the route itself is not always marked in critical places.

Length:

(Total: 470 kilometers / 292 miles)

Segments Covered in this Post: circa 27 kilometers / 17.5 miles

Convenient to: Stuttgart, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany

Marking: Red grape bunch on a white background (on a sign, painted on walls or trees, on stickers adhering to posts)

W4 Trail Marking
W4 Trail Marking

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Training to Hike

 

Stuttgart is a huge metropolis, connected by an extensive rail system. Using Stuttgart’s subway/urban rail system trains, the “S-Bahn” in German, I hiked along the southern end of the 470 kilometer-long (292 miles) wine hiking trail known as the Wuerttembergischer Weinwanderweg. The W4, I as refer to it below for expeditious reasons, wends its way through the quiet, green belt surrounding the Stuttgart region, encompassing its vineyards in the Neckar and Rems Valleys.

Stuttgart’s public transportation system is extremely efficient, and unbelievably inexpensive with a tourist pass. To prove the point, over two weekends there I decided to hike the southern-most sections of the W4, using my three-day, all-network passes. Leaving from downtown Stuttgart, I headed to the town of  Marbach on the  the S-4 line. Famous as the home of the great German author Schiller, Marbach is the site of the northern-most conjunction of Stuttgart’s S-Bahn system and the W4. About 30 minutes later, I was on the trail, passing through the charming old town, high above the Neckar River.

Old Marbach
Old Marbach

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Hiking, Wine, and Christmas Markets

 

December: Often a cold month, and the month with the shortest days of the year. But along the Moselle, temperatures can be mild in December, and the short days are celebrated, as they are throughout Germany, with Christmas Markets! Anyone who has been to Germany during December knows what fun these can be.

Traditionally, Christmas Markets open at the beginning of Advent, (usually around the last weekend of November), and run until Christmas Eve. Usually set up in the town square (or squares!), they offer hand-made crafts, Christmas items (such as tree decorations, Christmas-themed table linens, nutcrackers and smoker men), live entertainment, and food and drink. Wine plays a role here too, as Gluehwein, or warm mulled wine, is a popular drink. Red or white, the Gluehwein not only helps warm chilled hands and feet, it also helps warm the heart. At Christmas Markets, Christmas cheer is evident, even if the weather can be cold.

Christmas Market Gluehwein Stall
Christmas Market Gluehwein Stall

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Bernkastel to Trarbach: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Bernkastel-Kues to Traben-Trarbach

Trail Type: Short distance trail; much of it paved, some of it grassy, the rest is dirt trail; well maintained, but the markings are not exclusive to this route, and change in places.

Length: total: 6.5 kilometers/ 4 miles

Convenient to: Koblenz or Trier, Germany

Marking: Multiple signs indicate the direction to “Traben-Trarbach” (or “Bernkastel” if going the opposite way); Gold lizards on a red heart on a red square marked this trail the first part of the way; Once atop the hill, “T-6”  and “Mosel Erlebnis Route”, were also signs on this same trail all the way to Trarbach. (See the featured photograph above, and red sign in the first photo below.)

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Visan and its Vines

Some places are simply charming, and Visan is one of them. The small village is a visual gem, set on a low hill. Countryside surrounds it. It has delicious Cotes du Rhone Villages wines, to include the special Cuvee du Marot, and local olives to enjoy with them. Friendly people and great opportunities for hiking round out my paeans of praise.

The circuit hike I chose is one that is advertised online as the Vignes de l’Enclave des Papes (Vines of the Enclave of the Popes), but known locally as Circuit 12, or Circuit Est (East Circuit). The very helpful woman at the Syndicat d’Initiative oriented me to the maps they provide there, and off I went.

As the name implies, it heads east, through the well-preserved village center, out the old gate known as Porte Saint Martin (next to the Place de la Coconniere), and follows the old buildings ringing the historic center to the southeastern gate, the Porte du Puy Barret. From there, it was into the vineyards surrounding the village. But it wasn’t only vineyards. One of the great features about this trail is that is also passes by olive tree groves, and through forested areas, making for a nice variety of Provencal terrain to experience.

Porte du Puy Barret
Porte du Puy Barret

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