Tag Archives: hiking

Wine Notes: Italy’s Eisacktal

 

What I Learned

Welcome to Italy – although culturally and linguistically, you are in a Germanic cultural sphere. (This area was controlled by Austria for hundreds of years after the fall of the Roman Empire, until the end of World War I.) The wine region of the Suedtirol (Alto Adige, as the Italians further south call it), is one of the great wine regions in Italy. It has a number of districts, and this one, the Eisacktal wine district is particularly interesting. Its vineyards lie on very steep slopes following along the narrow Eisack (Isarco) River valley as it flows south from its source near the Italian-Austrian border. This district has less than 400 hectares devoted to vineyards, on mostly south-facing slopes, most of the way to Bozen (Bolzano), where the Eisack joins the Etsch (Adige) River. However, some of the best are around Klausen (Chiusa), on the slopes south (and below) Saebens, an ancient monastery.

While there are some red wines, about 90% of the wine from here is white wine.  White grapes do particularly well in this district’s relatively cool weather. Sylvaner (yes, sometimes with a Y in this area), Veltliner, Mueller-Thurgau, Kerner and Gewuerztraminer are the main white varietals.   The resulting wines are crisp, fruit forward, and deliciously refreshing.

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Trail in a Nutshell: Saebener Rundweg

 

Trail Name:  Saebener Rundweg

Trail Type: Very short-distance circuit; well-maintained with hard (paved or packed earth) surfaces, with some cobblestones; mostly good marking for this itinerary.

Length:

Total – 3.0 kilometers/miles

Convenient to: Bozen (Bolzano), Brixen (Bressanone), Italy

Marking:

White over red horizontal bars

Signage along the Saebener Weg

Follows written signs for “Keschtnweg” and Saebener Rundweg

Saebener Rundweg and Keschtnweg Signage

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Steigerwald’s Stellar Vineyards and Villages

 

The Steigerwald, in Franconia, is a wonderful area. Unlike the other wine districts in the region, the Steigerwald is away from the Main River, and does experience a bit more variance in the weather. One March, hiking the Steigerwald on the first weekend of March, I failed miserably due to snow and ice. (See that story here.) Another March, a year and three weeks’ time difference, sunny skies and dry trails resulted in one of the most memorable hikes I ever completed in Germany.

I began in Castell, a delightful village with a good reputation for its wines. It is nestled at the base of low, vine-covered hills. This iconic village comes complete with a castle in its park, narrow streets and lanes filled with historic houses, and a church. But it was not alone – all the villages on the trail of this hike were just as charming.

Castell: Castle and Church

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Wines Notes: Franconian Steigerwald

 

What I Learned:

Kronsberg, Julius Echter Berg, and the Kuchenmeister are three well-known vineyards in the Iphofen-Roedelsee area, the most famous perhaps being the Julius Echter Berg, named after a 16th Century Wuerzburg Prince-Bishop. (He served as the ruler of a large area within the Holy Roman Empire in Franconia, which he managed rather well.) It was during his lifetime that the Silvaner vines entered Franconia (the first documented record of it locally being in the Castell archives), and some of its best expressions come from the mineral-rich Gipskeuper soils (components shale, gypsum, anhydrite and rock salt) unique to the area around the Schwanberg, around which the three vineyards lay. This geological component, along with the influence of a continental weather pattern, can result in outstanding white wines some years.

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Steigerwald Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Steigerwald Weinwanderweg

Trail Type: Long distance; almost exclusively paved or at least hard-packed surfaces, well maintained, fairly well marked.

Length: Total: 42.75 kilometers/ miles

Convenient to: Kitzingen, Bavaria, Germany

Marking: Green grapes on a white background, scored through by a wavy red line

Signage: Steigerwald Weinwanderweg

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Grand Grapes and Castles

 

Selestat, an important town for centuries throughout the Middle Ages, has numerous attractions for visitors, both viticultural and historical. The Velo Route du Vignoble d’Alsace (the Alsace Vineyard Bike Trail) first brought me here. (See the Nutshell). The trail’s northern half is somewhat hilly. So, by the time I got to the villages in the foothills just outside Selestat, between Dambach-la-Ville’s Grand Cru Frankstein vineyard and Kintzheim’s Grand Cru Praelatenberg vineyard, I was delighted with the flat stretch through vineyards overlooked by castle-topped mountains. I decided then to return to hike the area someday.

After years of remodeling, Selestat’s Bibliotheque Humaniste (Humanist Library) finally reopened, and I began researching local wine-themed trails. I first found the Vignoble de Selestat trail. (Online, the Circuit de Piemont and the Circuit du Vignoble refer to the same itinerary.) So, after visiting the library in the morning to see Merovingian and Carolingian manuscripts, I headed a mile away to the trailhead in Chatenois.

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Wine Notes: Grand Cru Praelatenberg

 

What I Learned

Alsace is a fascinating place. From a watery world filled with tributaries to the tributaries of the Rhine River, to the foothills covered with vines, to the tree-covered mountains of the Vosges, all lie within less than 18 kilometers/10 miles of each other. The valley area, sheltered from Atlantic weather to the west, and continental weather to the east, has optimal conditions for growing cool weather grapes.

Selestat was at one time one of the most important towns in Alsace. So, not surprisingly, monks founded the Abbey of Ebermunster on the Ill, less than 10 kilometers/6 miles downriver. But both places are in the water-rich plains of Alsace, where grapes will not grow. The monks therefore acquired lands for vineyards in the hills behind Selestat, and one of these plots became known as the Praelatenberg, or Prelate’s Hill.

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Circuit du Vignoble: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Circuit du Vignoble (Bike), Circuit de Piémont (Hike)

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit trail; well-maintained, with almost exclusively paved or hard-packed surfaces throughout, marking on the trail not always easily discerned

Length: 10.1 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Selestat, Alsace, France

Marking:

Green circle outline on a white background (hike); Yellow (or orange) triangle (pointing to direction of travel) with two yellow (or orange) wheels, indicates a bike-able trail itinerary, though not clear whether this one or not. Note too, this sign indicates villages and distances to them. With so many trails (and signs) in this area, the issue is finding consistent marking to follow for a specific trail.

Signage Options

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Lavender and Purple Grapes

 

Provence produces purples in abundance. From the different varietals of red (actually dark purple colored) grapes grown in the region, to the fields of lavender. Color abounds, and not just in the fields!  The vibrant blues and yellows of tableware and dining linens, the luscious deep reds of the wines, the green of the olive oils are all visible in markets throughout the region.

Provencal Table Linens

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Vignes et Cabanes: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Des Vignes et Cabanes

Trail Type: Short-distance circuit (for hiking and biking); well-maintained and almost exclusively paved or hard-packed surfaces; marking on the trail fairly good. See comments below.

Length: 8.95 kilometers/5.5 miles

Convenient to: Montelimar, France

Marking: Either VTT 1, or just 1

Signage for the Bike and Hike Trail

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