Trail Name: Wiesen, Wein und Treue Weiber (Fields, Wine and True Women)
Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; varied surfaces (grass, dirt, paved); mostly well-maintained, but the route itself is not specifically marked.
Length: 13.5 kilometers/8.5 miles
Convenient to: Heilbronn, Germany
Marking: None uniquely specific to the trail’s itinerary. The photo below merely indicates first marking. (See the itinerary below.)
Hallowed sites exist in many forms throughout the world, and whether they are religious, ethnic or historic, all are sacred to its devotees. I recently visited such an area. It is revered by those who prefer powerful, age-worthy, Rhone red wines; who worship them, sadly often from afar, because the prices can reach astounding levels. This is the story of a pilgrimage to Tain.
Tain, or Tain l’Hermitage, as the town has become officially known, contains within its boundaries the appellation known as Hermitage, one of France’s most prestigious wine appellations. More like a village than a small town, it has a history that predates even the Romans. It’s reputation as a wine center is even more august, attracting pilgrims from every corner of the world.
What I Learned
“Hermitage” as in Appellation Hermitage Controlee (AOC), is one of the most well-known wine appellations on the planet. It is located in the small town of Tain l’Hermitage, France, (which is also home to the chocolatier Valrhona). Situated on the left bank of the Rhone River, which faces west, at a spot where it bends dramatically, producing a southern exposure for many parcels as well. The vineyards rise up steeply behind the town, which itself lies on a narrow alluvial plain.
Trail Name: Sur les Pas de Gambert
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; surfaces vary from paved to rutted dirt to pebble on stone, mostly maintained, and fairly well marked.
Length: 4 kilometers/ 2.5 miles
Convenient to: Vienne or Lyon, France
Marking:
Yellow rectangles indicating direction of travel
White panels, with a large black colored number, QR code and photo collage of Louis Gambert
Continue reading Sur les Pas de Gambert: Trail in a Nutshell
The sea, hiking and wines are three of my favorite things to experience. However, it is not always easy to find a place where waves meet the vines. It is rarer still to find well-marked and maintained trails in such spots. Serendipitiously though, it is possible to savor all three in Collioure.
A recent trip to the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France led to the town of Collioure, a little gem of a town. Set on a beautiful bay, it is famous for its narrow, atmospheric streets in the old town, leading to one of its old forts. It is also famous for its wines. The vineyards surrounding the town produce wines both for the AOC Collioure and for the Banyuls AOC. Finally, it has some delightful trails through the hills and vineyards for hikers and mountain-bike riders to enjoy.
Trail Name: Vignoble de Collioure
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; well-maintained and mostly hard surfaces (paved or hard-packed), with some rocky areas, good marking on the trail
Length: Total – 9.6 kilometers/ just short of 6 miles
Convenient to: Collioure, Perpignan, France
Marking: Yellow rectangles on the trail, reinforced with signposts identifying the exact location. (See the white lettering on top of the post.)
At this point on my hike along the Wi Wegli, I had no doubt that years from now, all my wine-themed hiking experiences considered, the Wii Wegli in the southern Baden wine region, will rank in my top three. This long-distance hiking trail provided a delightful hiking experience as well as a great tasting experience in one. From south (by Basel, Switzerland) to north (by Freiburg) great experiences awaited over every hill, and in every village. By the time I reached Muellheim, I had not realized that some of the best were yet to come.
I left Niederweiler, overshadowed from on high by the ancient Celtic, Roman and medieval edifices of Badenweiler, and climbed an equally formidable slope on the other side of the village, the Roemerberg. The climb was mostly through vineyards. Emerging from the forests that crown the top of the Roemerberg, beginning the descent, I spotted the village of Britzingen. Like so many of its neighboring villages, it is set in a hollow, following along a rushing mountain stream, and surrounded by green. However, the full magical effect of these discoveries came shortly afterwards as I wandered through eerily still Muggardt, the sole lane winding up through the hamlet on its way to vineyards.
Trail Name: Wii Wegli
Trail Type: Long distance; well-maintained and usually paved or hard pack, marking on the trail very good throughout.
Length: 81.6 kilometers/ 50.5 miles (See note below)
Convenient to: Freiburg, or Weil am Rhein, Germany; Basel, Switzerland
Marking: Yellow grape cluster on a red diamond on white background (Note: many times the red has faded to white. Another note: In the final segment, the trail often follows the Jacobusweg: yellow cockleshell on blue)
I have hiked many wine trails, in many different wine regions. And I have tasted many wines from those regions. But rarely does a trail combine both a wonderful hiking experience and tasting experience in one. For sheer variety of landscape, and expansive vistas of much of the southern Rhine River Valley, the Wii Wegli (dialect for: little wine trail) is a fantastic long-distance hiking experience. Located in the southwestern corner of Germany, the Markgraeflerland is a wine district in Baden’s wine region – one with excellent wines. From south (by Basel, Switzerland) to north (by Freiburg) great hiking and wine experiences awaited over every hill, and in every village.
