Another cycling route, and another chance to sample the wines along the Main River. The Main River valley is famous for its wines and its long-distance bike trail, the Main Radweg. It is one of Germany’s most popular cycling itineraries, justifiably beloved for its combination of pretty scenery, easy riding, welcoming towns and villages, and its wine culture. Many cyclists complete the entire Main Radweg. It is almost 400 kilometers long, and is not a circuit. This endeavor calls for time as well as careful advanced planning, which are usually in short supply for most of us. The Geniesser Tour cycling itinerary however is a wonderful alternative. Depending on stops, it is a half-day to a day-long circuit through one of the quietest sections of the Main Radweg in the Franconian wine region’s eastern Maindreieck district.
Beginning in Dettelbach, a well-known wine village, the trail followed along the river on the Main Radweg for about three kilometers. At Mainstockheim, the Geniesser Tour route peeled off into the hills above the river. The GWF, or the Winzergemeinschaft Franken, to give it its full name, came into view after passing through Buchbronn. GWF wines can come from grapes from various wine districts of Franconia. But the closest were found along the trail in the vineyards outside little Repperndorf. The trail entered Kitzingen shortly thereafter. It is undoubtedly the largest town in the area, with an historic center that is well worth the 500-meter detour. But if you push on, not to worry: the route does circle back to Kitzingen, albeit on the other side of the river.
There are discrete places that our memory captures in perpetuity for reasons unknown to us. Saarburg was one such place. A combination of road closures, road work detours and searching for a shortcut, took me there one afternoon. One glance at the compact historic center, rising dramatically above the serpentine Saar River, impressed itself so firmly in my mind that when I found a wine-themed hiking trail there, I knew that I would have to return to hike the trail.
From water to wine, and wine-gardens, the literal translation of Weingarten, German for “vineyard.” That was both the theme and the reality of this circuit hike by Sankt Stefan ob Stainz. It was here in Styria, Steiermark, in German, that I began my exploration of the wines from this southeastern corner of Austria.
The Steiermark is a wine region in the southeast corner of Austria. It is called Styria in English. The Steiermark lies just north of the Slovenian Alps, and east of the Austrian ones. Within this political and wine entity, there are three wine sub-regions.
-The easternmost, the Suedoststeiermark lies closest to Hungary, from where gets some of its climatic influences. Its topography is moderately hilly in most places, and as the name for its Vulkanland district implies, is influenced by remains of ancient volcanos.
-The southernmost, is the Suedsteiermark, which shares a long border, as well as a tradition of viticulture, with Slovenia.
-Then there is the Weststeiermark. It is known by Austrian wine-lovers, and promoted by the local tourism industry, as Schilcher-land, home to a rose wine of the same name.
Trail Name: Zachgraben und Weingaerten (Zach Creek and Vineyards)
Trail Type: A mid-distance circuit trail; some sections maintained, others rougher, with varying surfaces, from paved to mud. This circuit is not marked (See comment)
While Barcelona is the political capital of Catalonia, its cava capital is Sant Sadurni d’Anoia. This small town in the hills behind Barcelona is as devoted to cava as fans of sparkling wine are devoted to cava. Thus, the trail through the area around this town encountered plenty of wineries and vineyards, in a very rural area not far from Barcelona.
I began this trail from the train station in Barcelona. The train ride to Sant Sadurni was super easy from Barcelona. Not only that, but a special deal includes round-trip ticket with a tour of the Freixenet sparkling wine facility, which happens to be right next door to the station. So, after the informative tour, and the free tasting, I headed out on the trail.
Trail Type: Short distance circuit; partly paved, partly hard packed earthen surface, and some rough trail, somewhat maintained, and marked a bit sporadically along the route itself, so bring a map.
Length: Total: 6.1 kilometers/ 3.8 miles
Convenient to: Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain
Marking: Red grape leaf, or directional signs to itinerary points in a couple of places