Tag Archives: hiking

Wine Notes: Condrieu

 

What I Learned

Three great Appellations d’Origine Controlee (AOC) begin about 20 miles south from Lyon. They are, from north to south, the famous Cote Rotie, Condrieu, and St Joseph. In these AOC, the Syrah and the Viognier varietals reign supreme.

Condrieu is a small town, and the vines of its appellation are sandwiched between the Cote Rotie appellation, and the Saint Joseph appellation, While the Cote Rotie is famous for its red wines, Condrieu is famous for its white wines. And while the Saint Joseph appellation is the largest in this part of the northern Rhone, the Condrieu appellation is one of the smallest in the region.

This appellation covers only about 260 hectares, and only six other communes (Chavanay, Limony, Malleval, Verin, Saint Michel sur Rhone, and Saint Pierre de Boeuf), most of which are considerably smaller than Condrieu. Encircled by this appellation is one of the smallest appellations in France: Chateau Grillet.

The white Viognier grape is the sole varietal for the Condrieu and Chateau Grillet appellations. This varietal produces delicious, full bodied and full-flavored wines that are perfumed treasures for white wine lovers. Only about 6000 hectoliters are produced each year in the Condrieu appellation. (And unless you have very deep pockets, you can forget about including a bottle of Chateau Grillet, with its even smaller production, in your collection of appellation Viognier wine from this area.)

Granitic soils predominate here, unlike the limestone and calcareous soils in so many other non-Rhone Valley appellations. The unique substrata in the northern Rhone area forced the river to carve its way south. The valley here is rather narrow and twisting (and quite picturesque), resulting in numerous vineyards with steep south facing exposures – great for soaking up sun and retaining heat!

 

What I Tasted

2016 Viognier, AOP, Domaine Louis Clerc: A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of spice, green wood; and flavors of spice, wood, and vanilla; medium acidity, smooth aromatic finish.

2016 Viognier, Resurgence, Appellation Condrieu Protegee, Xavier Mourier (Chavanay): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of spice, green wood; and flavors of spice, wood, vanilla; medium acidity, smooth aromatic finish

2016 Viognier, La Berne, Vieilles Vignes, Appellation Condrieu Controlee Domaine Lionel Faury (Chavanay): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose is fruity and slightly floral, with white stone fruit and vanilla flavors; medium plus acidity, with a smooth medium length finish.

2016 Viognier, La Berne, Appellation Condrieu Controlee Domaine Lionel Faury: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a mineral and slightly floral nose, with floral, clove, oak, and vanilla flavors; medium acidity and length

2016 Viognier, Les Rouelles, Appellation Condrieu Controlee, Gilles Flacher (Charnas): A dry white wine with medium gold color; spice and smoky nose, with floral, spice and smoky flavors; high acidity, but a relatively smooth finish.

 

 

 

 

 

Les Coteaux St Michel: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Les Coteaux St Michel, AKA Saint Michel n. 1

Trail Type: Short distance; somewhat maintained and varied surfaces from paved to rough, with loose gravel on some of the steep slopes, marking on the trail good, but with one exception, not specific to the trail itself.

Length:

Total – about 7 kilometers/ 4.5 miles

Convenient to: Vienne and Lyon, France

Marking:

A white horizonal bar over a yellow horizonal bar, and occasionally a post noting current location and direction arrows with distances to further locations. (See photo above)

 

Trail Description:

A beautiful and sometimes challenging trail through a variety of landscapes from hamlets to fields and forests, but mostly dominated by scenes of the Condrieu vineyards and the Rhone River. With the dramatic views, and constantly changing trail, this trail will satisfy those looking to explore the quiet area of this small appellation.

Trailhead:

Official: St Michel sur Rhone: Mairie – R du Solon x Place des Muriers

Mine: Rue de la Voie Romaine, Verin

Parking:

St Michel sur Rhone: R du Solon, by church about 20 places; Rue Haute (Place du Bourg Vieille), about 9 spots

Verin: R. Nationale, parking along the street, south of R Jean Vincent, and between R. de la Voie Romaine and D34; small lot at the intersection of R Jean Vincent and R. Nationale/D34

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: SNCF routes north to Lyon and south to Valence, pass through the station St Clair les Roches, across the river from Condrieu in Les Roches de Condrieu.

Bus: Bus, more like van, service is available on demand.

Suggested Stages: Not Applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

St Michel sur Rhone: Place des Muriers, La Piaton, woods, Impasse Cote Foret, Cote Foret (along tracks), cross D1086, dogleg , R du Grand Val, north on R de Lone, east to R. de Jassoux, Impasse du Puit, cross tracks, Impasse de la Croix Rouge, Impasse de Poncin, cross tracks, north on R. Roches Molles (Chateau Grillet); Verin : R. de la Voie Romaine, R. de Beatrice de Roussillon, path on left by house just after underpass, above another house, Impasse de la Croix Margot, R. de la Cartherie, Impasse au Bois, R. de l’Ollagniere ; Impasse la Gaie, down between house and pool, R Rampot

Representative Trail Photos:

Trail Section: An Underpass

 

Representative Surface -Loose Stone and Rock

 

Trail Between Houses

 

Restrooms:

St Michel sur Rhone: R du Solon, by church and Restaurant

Attractions on or near Trail:

Just lots of wonderful views of the famed vineyards

Tasting along the Trail:

Condrieu, the town, has the most wineries, although there are a few, smaller ones along the trail, especially in Saint Michel sur Rhone

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Dans les Vignobles de Cote-Rotie et Condrieu, a three-day, 44-kilometer circuit trail of short stages around both the Cote Rotie and Condrieu appellations.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.condrieu.fr/# and https://www.vienne-condrieu.com/

Trail specific: https://www.mairie-saintmichelsurrhone.fr/loisirs_randonnees_a_saint_michel.php

Comments:

There were a couple of places where the trail followed in between a house and a barn or other building, or a house and a pool. In all cases, it was indeed part of the trail. (There were a couple of rail track underpasses as well.  )

The Heights of Styrian Vines

 

Set in the highest wine village in Europe, the Kitzecker Weinwanderweg surely lived up to its name, with multiple steep, vine-laden slopes to conquer, culminating in a sense of standing on top of the wine world. But having multiple opportunities to crest some of the highest slopes in the district, I could see for myself the incredible 360 degree vistas that height affords, all around this tranquil village in southern Styria.

A View From Kitzeck

 

The trail was nicely laid out. The elevation changed constantly, leading through diverse landscapes. From village center to meadows and forests. Then there were the vineyards, irregularly shaped parcels covering sun-drenched slopes, often in view, and only occasionally passed through. There were streams and hillsides to walk along, usually shaded by old trees. In other words, there is a lot of variety to be had in a relatively short distance.

Trail Along the Stream

 

Hiking this trail in June meant long days, hot sun and lush vegetation in the meadows, forests and vineyards. So I began this short (9.2 kilometer) trail at around 5 p.m., when the sun was less fierce, and the temperatures dropped. While the leaf-cover from trees overhead was much appreciated, there wasn’t much I could do about the vegetation in the meadows. In a couple of places, it rose about 1.25 meters/four feet high, and unfortunately ticks, and tick-borne diseases, are on the rise in Europe. Where possible, I took an alternate route to rejoin the trail through vineyards or forest. Fortunately, this was possible as the town has a number of trails through and around it, making it a hiker’s paradise. Unfortunately though, on that day I belatedly concluded that this idyllic trail might be best hiked in later fall or early spring, when the meadow vegetation has scaled back.

The Steep Green Hills of Kitzeck

 

But even my couple of alternative routes (one along a road) were conducted in peaceful solitude. In reality, you get here a lot of quiet here. No rushing vehicles, no bustling village center. There is the wine museum right at the start of the trail that should not be missed, but otherwise, there is not much to indicate an actual urban hub. The village is more like a series of beautifully maintained farms loosely strung along a country lane. A couple of farms have converted to tourist accommodations, ranging from elegant to simple. Other farms do double duty as restaurants or wine taverns.

Kitzeck: Hills and Vineyards

 

A church dramatically tops the highest point of Kitzeck. Its tower is like a beacon, and eyes from all around are drawn to it, starkly thrust up against an endless sky. Inside is simply decorated. But this small church with its stunning location, needs no further adornment.

Against the Setting Sun

 

But while the hikers tendency might be to look down, as from the church, the high vantage point around, or from an open hillside, to appreciate the steepness of the terrain hikers should pause to look up every now and then along this trail. The vines seem to be stacked on top of each other, and the trees rise like sentinels, one behind the other. The luxuriant and brilliant greens were everywhere and constantly evolving. The greens darkened and the blues intensified as the sun sank lower in the horizon.

View of Dusk From Kitzeck

 

Leaving the final forested section, I entered a compound of half a dozen houses and farm buildings. Here I passed a wine tavern, sadly closed on a Tuesday at around 7:30 on a beautiful evening. My thirst unquenched, but visually rewarded with a dramatic view of the church tower, backlit by the last rays of the setting sun, I made my way to the top of the hill, passing the church, and enjoying the last views of the day from yet another wine-themed trail, this time in Kitzeck.

Quiet Hamlet on the Trail

 

 

Kitzecker Weinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Kitzecker Weinwanderweg

Trail Type: Short-distance circuit trail; mostly well-maintained and with a variety of trail surfaces; marking on the trail mostly good.

Length:

Total – 9.3 kilometers/5.75 miles

Convenient to: Graz, or Leibnitz, Austria

Marking: Black number 8 on a rectangular red and white stripe background

Signage: Kitzecker Weinwanderweg

 

Trail Description: This trail passes through a great variety of landscapes, and its hikers will encounter diverse trail conditions along the way. Three significant inclines/declines, but once on top hikers will enjoy fantastic panoramas of the surrounding district and beyond.

Trailhead:

Kitzeck in Sausal, Steinriegel, by the wine museum and church

Parking:

Kitzeck in Sausal, Steinriegel, by the wine museum and the church

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Closest rail connection is in Leibnitz, coming from Graz. The Austrian train system is the Oesterreichische Bundesbahnen (OeBB), and the https://www.oebb.at/en/fahrplan link will provide timetable information for both the OeBB trains and Post bus system. (See below).

Bus: The OeBB Post bus system currently (June 2020) services Kitzeck from Leibnitz about 3 times a day on weekdays. Less often on weekends or holidays.

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Kitzeck: Sauegg Weg, path (found across from Kitzeckmueller tavern/restaurant driveway) through field then woods downhill to Sauegg, path along stream; Greith: cross L636, Schnabelveigl Weg; Annaberg: Landgutstr, path through forested area, Poetscherlweg; Perlleiten: along hamlet lane, vineyards, meadow, then pass Weingut Albert; Kleingauitsch: Uphill along L678, turn right onto path through fields and vineyards, woods; Kitzeck: Joshweg-Sacherneggweg I, L636 (AKA: Steinriegel and Sausaler Weinstrasse)

Representative Trail Photos:

Trail Section: Recently Mowed Grass Path

 

Through the Woods: Sample Trail Section

 

Representative Trail Section Along a Road

 

Restrooms:

Kitzeck: Steinriegel, behind the wine museum

Attractions on or near Trail:

Wein Museum: Highest wine museum in Europe

Tasting along the Trail:

Several wineries along or very close by, the trail

Alternative Options:

Biking: The Weinstrasse Tour offers four different variations (72, 49, 31 or 25 kilometer-circuits) on mostly little used roads through this wine district.

Mountain biking: The Klapotetz (elaborate scarecrow-like devices vintners use in the vineyards) MTB Runde is a 31-kilometer-long circuit passing through Kitzeck, and passing as far south as Heimschuh.

Car: Both the Suedsteirische Weinstrasse and the Sausaler Weinstrasse are relatively short, scenic car routes which take visitors to different wine villages, wineries and past local vineyards in this area.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.kitzecksausal.at/tourismus/tourismusverband/

https://www.sulmtal-sausal.at/de

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/route/wanderung/suedwest-steiermark/kitzecker-weinwanderweg-/1512229/

Comments:

Trail sections through meadows can be rather overgrown in June.

Villanders and Its Vines

 

A mere 17 miles from the Austrian border at the Brenner Pass, the first vineyards appear in northern Italy, along with some linguistic confusion. Following along the Eisack River, the Isarco in Italian, the vineyards begin just as the dramatic narrow pass begins to widen at Novacella, Neustift in German, by Brixen, Bressanone in Italian. Thus, it continues all the way south, throughout Suedtirol/Alto Adige, the South Tirol as English speakers call it.

This area is well-known throughout the German speaking world as a hiking and biking paradise set in the magnificent Dolomites. Here, the German passion for precision and perfection meets the Italian passion for food and wine, and the results are amazing.

View of the Dolomites

 

Hiking in the northern half of the South Tirol provided more options and was less challenging than biking in it. While the mountains are steep, the paths are relatively well maintained and well-laid out. Although the physical effort was not as easy as hiking in the Rheinhesse wine region in Germany, or the Carnuntum wine region in Austria, any reasonably fit person could complete them.

Race to the Top (For the Ambitious)

 

Amongst a plethora of trails, one wine-themed trail was located high up the western edge of the Dolomites. It was also opposite the Nature Park of Puez-Odle, and its famous peaks, the Odle Group, among them.  I figured that from a higher elevation, the views from the trail of the mountain peaks would be spectacular. I was not wrong in that regard.

Summits in the Clouds

 

The trail was named the Toerggeleweg. A toerggele is a wine press, and in this district, wine taverns are often identified with this term. The trail passes through or by vineyards, and wine taverns, as it meanders up and down the mountainside above Klausen/Chiusa, the main town in this district. This district is traditionally agricultural, and several multi-purpose farms run by extended families still exist. The trail often passes right along them. Nowadays, in addition to farming, and running the seasonal wine tavern (toerggele), many families rent places to sleep.

Up the Eisack Valley

 

The trail began in the village of Villanders, a popular summer destination. In addition to the old houses lining the narrow streets, the village has an attractive old church, Santo Stefano, on the outskirts of the village. It is worth a visit, especially since the walled cemetery next to it is considered one of the most beautiful in the region. On just about every grave amazing ironwork commemorates the deceased. Much of the ironwork is extremely detailed, imaginative and expertly wrought.

Wrought Iron Grave Markers

 

The trail proceeded through woodlands containing chestnut trees. This part of the Toerggeleweg follows along a popular long-distance trail called the Keschtnweg/Sentiero delle Castagne, or the Chestnut Trail. Before long though, I was in vineyards, the object of my hike. Most of the vines are trained high. In this southern Alpine wine region, the growth can be luxuriant quite early in the season. So many shades of green greeted the eye, everywhere I looked.

Vines in Early June

 

Every now and then, the trail lead through a farming compound or settlement. As I passed these buildings, I realized what spectacular settings most of them offered. Set on a steep-sided mountain looking across the deep valley, surrounded in part by vineyards, they were forested on untillable sites watered by rushing streams. These farms were well maintained, and looked inhabited. But they were eerily silent. Many rural settlements in Italy are slowly being emptied of local inhabitants, populated only as rentals during the summer season, as the young move to large towns for work, and the old move to towns for companionship. One older man, finishing his farm work for the day, drove by in a creaky Fiat Cinquecento and asked if I wanted a lift. Given that I had quite an incline ahead of me, I was tempted. I should have taken his offer, as I am sure he would have had interesting stories to tell about life on the mountain in days gone by.

Shuttered Farm Along the Trail

 

The trail eventually reached the hamlet of Sauders. More houses, and more people (three) than I had seen for over an hour. At Sauders, the trail reached its southern-most point. The slow incline up and back to Villanders began, leading out of the hamlet on a well-maintained trail, the Kirchsteig. It soon passed an old mill on a torrent, barely contained in its course as it bounded down the mountainside.

Abandoned Mill

 

Just as the Kirchsteig joined the road to the center of Villanders, I had one more expansive view of the Eisack river and its valley, making its way through the Dolomites on its way to points south. A memorable end to a memorable trail, or possibly four or five due to the multiplicity of trails and trail names involved!

 

Toerggeleweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Toerggeleweg Villanders/Villandro (AKA Toerggelesteig) (See comment below)

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; somewhat maintained, mostly rough surfaces outside built-up areas, sometimes spotty marking on the trail.

Length:

Total – approximately 8.5 kilometers/ 5.25 miles

Convenient to: Klausen/Chiusa, Bozen/Bolzano, or Brixen/Bressanone, Suedtirol/Alto Adige, Italy

Marking: Partly along the Keschtnweg/Sentiero del Castagno (chestnut outlined in black on a white background), partly along the Toerggeleweg (AKA Toerggelesteig) bunch of grapes outlined in black on a white background; In Italy in general, horizontal white and red rectangles, either in isolation or with a trail name or symbol, indicate you are on a hiking trail.

Keschtn/Castagno Trail Marking

 

Toerggelesteig Signage

 

Trail Description: Beginning in a village, this circuit trail passes through a nice variety of woodland, meadow and vineyard landscapes, while providing fantastic views of the majestic Dolomite peaks in the Odle Group. While slightly more challenging than some vineyard hikes on account of the rougher trail surfaces (in places), numerous ascents and descents, and generally steeper terrain, it is suitable for most moderately fit hikers.

Trailhead:  Villanders: Kirche Sankt Michael/San Michele, Vicolo Franz v. Defregger (by Hotel Ansitz zum Steinbock)

Parking:

Villanders: Unterdorf, a medium-sized lot (behind and below the townhall/tourism office)

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Regular service from Brixen (to the north) or Bozen (to the south) to Klausen

Bus: Service from Klausen to Villanders is available through Verkehrsverbund Suedtirol, the 345/ Villandro-Chiusa line. Information may be found (as of June 2020) at www.suedtirolmobil.info.

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Clockwise)

Villanders: Center of Villanders (Unterdorf x Hofstatt)’ Path below Kirche Sankt Michael/San Michele, Fussweg St Stefano-Gravetsch, briefly on St Valentin; cross the creek; woods, Erzweg, Johannser (settlement), cross creek lower down; Sankt Valentin/San Valentino: Am Erzweg/Via alle Miniere, Landestrasse/SP 87, past a chapel; Bodenacker: Past some houses, onto Toerggelesteig path, downhill then uphill through woods; Oberstattleitner compound; Unter St Stefan/St. Stefano: Past the Ober- and Unter- Furner compounds; Sauders: past a church; Kirchsteig path (blue and white signs), Villanders: Hofstatt, toward town center (Ortsmitte)

Representative Trail Photos:

Representative Trail Section Through Meadows
Representative Trail Section Through Forest

 

Restrooms:

Villanders/Villandro: In the Cemetery, in the hillside above the graves

Villanders/Villandro: Down behind the town hall complex, by the sports fields

Attractions on or near Trail: None (except the scenery!)

Tasting along the Trail:

Look for Toerggele or Buschenschank, especially in Sauders and nearby Oberfurner and Oberpartegg, and hotel restaurants in Villanders center.

The regional cooperative is on the outskirts of Klausen.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Lots of hiking trails, naturally, but only the other Toerggelesteig trails in Klausen, Feldthurns and Barbian (see comment below), and the Leitach-Chiusa Sentiero del Vino (a 4.5 km circuit), are wine-themed trails.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.klausen.it/it/

Trail specific: https://www.klausen.it/it/365-giorni-attivita/escursionismo/escursioni-consigliati/

Comments:

In addition to Villanders, nearby Klausen/Chiusa, Barbian/Barbiano and Feldthurns/Velturno also have Toerggelesteig trails, especially popular during new wine season in the autumn. This may account for a number of trails in the area being marked on some maps as “Toerggelesteig,” which exceed the scope of the Villanders circuit described above.

 

Red Wine Ways

 

I didn’t know what to anticipate in the Ahrtal, but it certainly wasn’t this: gorgeous, dramatic scenery, and absolutely delicious food and wine, all set in the heart of the river valley of one of the lesser known German wine regions.

Steep Terraces and Tree-lined Slopes

 

Also unexpected were the steep hills that, by necessity, must accompany such stunning perspectives. And equally unexpected was the excellent red wine. Given its northern latitude, where ripening can prove difficult, good red wine is often challenging to make. Finally, I did not expect such well-developed tourism infrastructure in an area unknown to mass tourism. But Germans certainly knew about it, as the license plates I saw in the towns and villages indicated visitors from all over Germany – and with good reason.

Ahrweiler: Street Scene

 

The main town in the area, Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler, is a delightful spa town, with all the amenities found in most spa towns: perfectly maintained paths (wheelchair as well as baby carriage accessible) through beautifully manicured parks or gardens; cafes by the dozen where strollers can watch the world go by with a cup of coffee, or a glass of wine in hand; museums and concerts, sometimes even free and outdoors; and, of course, good restaurants. The most important amenity though, pools and spas, are throughout town and in several hotels. (Soaking in a whirlpool of hot water after a long hike is any hiker’s idea of heaven on earth.)

Bad Neuenahr: City Park

 

But for those preferring something a bit more strenuous, there is the Rotweinwanderweg. At 35 kilometers, it is designed to be hiked over a couple of days in stages, at your own pace. Conveniently, area hotel guests receive a local rail pass, which was another pleasant surprise! Therefore, it is possible to ride to the start point, in Altenahr, hike your way back down the valley to a point of your choosing, then picking up the following day where you left off the day before.

Winding Along the Cliffs

 

This trail is certainly do-able in two days, but you will want more time! Lovely wine taverns, wine shops and rest areas line the trail in places. While some taverns were in the villages (Dernau was especially full of them), I stopped at one (the Michaelishof) magnificently set in the midst of the vineyards on the outskirts of Mayschoss to sample some food and wine, in spite of being behind schedule.

 

Other places that beg for a stop on the trail are fantastic overlook points, and dramatic cliffside benches. Quiet forest vales also invite hikers to experience a few minutes in shadowy, green tranquility. Sadly, I didn’t have enough time to maximize my enjoyment at each spot, so it was often with a heavy sigh, that I moved on. But at this point, I knew I could definitely count on another unexpected delight around the next bend or atop the next rise – and I was never disappointed.

Cliffside Seating

 

My hike on the Rotweinwanderweg only took me from to Altenahr to Marienthal. That is to say, I only completed the first 13 kilometers of the trail because of personal time constraints. Marienthal is as good a place to stop as any, as it is the site of a former monastery, now home to the Weingut Kloster Marienthal. Set in a hidden, narrow draw lined by vineyards on one side of the road, and tall pines on the other, its historic building contains an impressive wine shop, a wine bar, and a garden café. It was a fitting way to end my hike on this trail, which also included an unexpected desire to return someday to finish this great trail.

Marienthal: Wine Shop and Tavern

 

 

Rotweinwanderweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Rotweinwanderweg (Red Wine Hiking Trail)

Trail Type: Long distance; surface footing is all hard, be it on tarmac or hardpacked earth to stair-steps; very well maintained, and extremely well-marked.

Length:

Total: 35.5 kilometers / 22 miles

My segment: Altenahr to Marienthal (@15 kilometers / 9 miles)

Convenient to: Bonn, Germany

Marking: Red grapes on a white background

Trail Description:

This outstanding trail had a lot of variety – from the scenery, to the trail surfaces, with just enough challenge to make it fun. Sun and shade alternated as the trail passed from woods to vineyard. Judging from the numbers of couples and small groups, it is a popular trail, easily accessible from a number of points throughout its length, and one that offered several great wine taverns, as well as occasional rest areas with picnic tables, along the way.

Trailheads:

Altenahr: Seilbahnstrasse x B267

Bad Bodendorf : Bahnhofstrasse x Moselstrasse

Parking: (Altenahr to Heppingen only)

Altenahr: Seilbahnstrasse, a large lot

Rech: Brueckenstrasse (at the far end of the bridge)

Marienthal: Klosterstr, large lot at end of the improved road

Heppingen: Left off Burgstr, Parkplatz Friedhof, a large lot by the cemetery

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Deutsche Bahn regional trains frequently service the Ahr valley, from Remagen to Ahrbruecke, with stops at all the villages/towns on the trail. (See the free ride tip below.)

Suggested Stages:

Altenahr to Mayschoss (4 km)

Mayschoss to Rech (3 km)

Rech to Dernau (4 km)

Dernau to Marienthal (4 km)

Marienthal to Walporzheim (3.1 km)

Walporzheim to Ahrweiler (3.4 km)

Ahrweiler to Bad Neuenahr (6.7 km)

Bad Neuenahr to Heppingen (2.2 km)

Heppingen to Lohrsdorf (2.5 km)

Lohrsdorf to Bad Bodendorf (2.1 km)

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Altenahr to Bad Neuenahr only)

Altenahr: Altenburgerstr, Rossberg, trail for castle, then for Weisses Kreuz, vineyards, woods, more vineyards; Mayschoss: Weinhaus Michaelishof, Dorfstr, trail through vineyards, Rech: joins above In Der Aue; vineyards, then woods; Dernau: vineyards, cross K35, cross Bachstr, vineyards; Marienthal: Klosterstr; past the Kloster Marienthal winery, then ruins; Vineyards and woods, past Weingut Forsterhof; Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler: Im Teufelbach-Am Silberberg, vineyards, cross Elligstrasse, vineyards; Lantershofen-Grafschaft: cross L83/Hemmessener Str; Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler: cross over A573, vineyards; cross top of Bergstr, woods; Cross under A61; Heppingen: Jahnstr, past cemetery, cross Burgstr, woods, then vineyards; Lohrsdorf: Ritterstr, Grosser Weg, B266, vineyards, woods; Bad Bodendorf: Heerweg, turn at Winzerverein Bad Bodendorf onto Bahnhofstr.

Representative Trail Photos:

Section of Woodland Trail

 

Trail: Sample Section Through Vineyards

 

Restrooms: None observed!

Attractions on or near Trail:

Ahrweiler: AhrWeinForum, a museum with permanent displays focusing on the life of vintners in the vineyards and in the cellars.

Tasting along the Trail:

Many taverns, wine bars and wineries (See itinerary above for ones directly on the path). Many more may be found off the trail in town/village centers.

Alternative Options:

Biking: The 75-kilometer-long Ahrradweg (Ahr Bicycle Trail) begins further upriver, and from Altenahr covers the same wine villages, albeit from the valley floor, mostly on dedicated bike paths, following along the river.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.ahrtal.de/en/

Trail  specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/wanderung/ahrtal/rotweinwanderweg-ahrtal/1362674/#dm=1

Comments:

I was enthralled by the gorgeous and dramatic scenery. As a wine drinker, I came to appreciate every curve and new hillside, which sheltered yet another natural bowl for the vines to thrive in. A one-day hike of slightly less than half this trail, (followed by a good soak in the mineral waters), was simply not enough time to spend here.

Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler is a health resort area, and it has a number of attractions which might appeal to visitors: open air jazz or classical concerts, wine tastings and spa treatments.

If staying in the valley at a local hotel, the hotel-provided guest card will serve as a train ticket during your stay! The train is the ideal way to cover the stages of this hike.

Stein and the Schreckberg

 

Schreckberg, specifically the Steiner Schreck, Hund, Altenburg, and Steiner Pfaffenberg are four named vineyards along the itinerary on this hike above the town of Stein an der Donau, Austria. The Krems River is a major tributary to the Danube. The Kremstal wine region has Krems, on the Krems River and the Danube, as its main city. Krems has the little town of Stein an der Donau attached to it. Although Stein’s vineyards form part of the Kremstal wine region, it is easy to see why some experts believe that this area belongs to the Wachau wine region. Situated along the Danube upriver from Krems, Stein vineyards flow into those of the Wachau by Loiben, at the end of a visually dramatic and historically significant section of the Danube. A hike along this section of the Danube is a fairy tale come true.

This itinerary granted the typical three wishes for an ideal vineyard hike: beautiful natural scenery, charming small towns, and renowned vineyards. On magical moments here and there along the trail, all three lined up for a memorable photo opportunity.

Vineyards Above Stein an der Donau

 

My hike began along the Steiner Kellergasse, or Stein’s “Cellar Lane,” where the vintners had their cellars, and in some cases, still do.  This area is just below the vineyards, on the edge of the built-up area of town, and climbs uphill toward the vineyards. Soon I was in them. No doubt Stein is still very much a wine village.

Lane into the Vineyards

 

This final section of vines in the Kremstal appellation, has some unique parcels, with unique soils and aspects.   The vineyards on the Schreckberg are steep and terraced. Each terrace seems uniquely formed to provide the best aspect for a few rows of vines. From a distance, these look charmingly higgledy piggledy, but up close, they make perfect sense. Deep cuts between parcels expose the subsoils, showing deep sedimentary layers. On finally reaching the top of the Schreckberg, the trail circled around to head back down into town.

Stein: Vineyard Terraces

 

From this perspective, beautiful views of the Danube and the forested hilltops of the right bank. Upriver, the Danube twists and turns through a relatively narrow valley flanked by cliffs, with vineyards on the left bank facing south, and forests of trees (to include apricot trees at lower elevations) on the right. The water flows swiftly and silently along this section. It is difficult to believe that this peaceful spot is only 60 minutes by car or 75 minutes by train from Vienna!

Vineyards Along the Danube

 

Separated by a road in a deep cut (the Reisperbachtal road), the next part of the hike went up the Steiner Pfaffenberg. It is closer to the Danube, rising seemingly from its narrow bank. Here, after passing the Altenburg ruins, and the Altenburger Weinberg Cross, made in part of vines, the noise and bustle of the town really fades away. The vineyards were quiet, and the terraces looked more regular, not quite as fantastical.

Altenburg’s Wine Cross

 

After a woodland interlude, the trail led down to Foerthof, a hamlet by the river with a medieval chapel of note. Following the river downstream, I soon reached Stein, and entered the historical section by an old gate. Nearby were well-maintained pastel-colored houses and shops, many with simple, but elegant Baroque facades. A slight detour led up to the parish church above the Steiner Landstrasse, and a set of stairs from the church yard led back down to it.

Fuerthof: Through the Woods

 

While it was one of the shorter hikes I have ever done, it managed to hit all the highlights of this magical district of Austria, and had the advantage of having great wine, which like an elixir, restores one’s idealistic belief in the myth of wine and eternal well-being!

Stein an der Donau: Historical Center