Tag Archives: High Rhine

Germany, Switzerland, Wines

Wine Notes: High Rhine Wines

 

What I Learned:

In Germany, the Steinler in Nack, a hamlet south of Lottstetten, the Kapellenberg in Erzingen to the northwest of Nack, and the Oelberg outside Hohentengen to the southwest of Nack, are the vineyard areas in this remote pocket of the Baden-Wuerttemberg. With no grossanlage, the labels on local wine bottles simply designate the name of the wine region: Baden. The small Steinler vineyard is the only one in this Jestetten/Lottstetten area, and I could only catch glimpses of its south facing vineyards from time to time. Nevertheless, the local Weingut Clauss in Nack enthusiastically produces some very good wines.

Only two miles away, the Swiss vineyards in this area begin in the village of Ruedlingen, and continue up to the top of the hill to Buchberg. These vineyards visited fall within the Schaffhausen appellation. Buchberg is the southernmost village in the Schaffhausen canton, therefore it automatically has the southernmost vineyards in the appellation. While about one-eighth of the grape vines here are Mueller-Thurgau, known locally as Riesling x Sylvaner (yes, with the “y”), the vintners here grow the Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir) varietal more than any other. In fact, the Schaffhausen appellation area is known as “Blauburgunderland” (Pinot Noir Country).

In Buchberg especially, the vineyards are ideally sited on steep, south-facing terrain, directly overlooking the Rhine River. However, true to my experiences in Switzerland, none of the wineries, and only one tavern (in Ruedlingen) was open on the day I was there!

 

What I Tasted:

2017 Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris), Belemnit, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weingut Clauss (Nack, Germany): A dry white wine with medium gold color; fruity and spicy nose, with peach and vanilla flavors; medium plus acidity.

2017 Ruedlinger, Riesling x Sylvaner, AOC Schaffhausen, by Peter Matzinger, local grower, (Ruedlingen, Switzerland) with Gebrueder Kuemin Weinbau (winery) (Freienbach, Switzerland): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; neutral nose with a hint of citrus, with vanilla and citrus flavors, with a hint of nuts; medium acidity, and a belatedly tart finish.

2017 Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir), Nacker Rose, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weingut Clauss (Nack): A dry rose wine with dark minus salmon color; slightly fruity nose, with sweet cherry and slight smoke flavors; medium tannins

2017 Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir), Nacker, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Weingut Clauss (Nack): A dry red wine with dark minus ruby red color; sweet dark cherry wood nose and flavors, with a hint of tar; medium tannins, and a smooth finish.

 

 

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell, Switzerland

Rhein Reben Route: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Rhein Reben Route (Rhine Grapes Route)

Trail Type: Mid-distance trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard surfaces, no trail-specific marking for this trail, although there are the standard directional and distance (or time) markers.

Length:

Total –  13.5 kilometers/8.4 miles

Convenient to: Schaffhausen, or Zurich, Switzerland

Marking: No trail-specific signage. Directional signs only follow (See comments below)

Examples of German Directional Signs

 

Examples of Swiss Directional Signs and Trail Markings

 

Trail Description:

Following mostly along the Rhine River’s edge in a little-known corner of Germany and Switzerland, this very easy trail, with only two short but somewhat steep inclines, offers variety in the landscape, tranquil scenery, and often shady paths.

Trailheads:

Jestetten, Germany: Saarstr (x Bahnhof) (start)

Buchberg, Switzerland: Dorfstr (end)

Parking:

Jestetten, Germany: Bahnhofstr (by station)

Buchberg, Switzerland: by the church

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: S9, Schaffhausen-Jestetten-Uster, stops in Rafz, (about 4 kilometers distant, but the closest to Buchberg)

Bus: Zurcher Verkehrsverbund, (ZVV), runs a frequent and direct bus service to Rafz on ZVV Bus 675

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (North-South/Upriver-Downriver)

Jestetten, Germany: Saarstr, Altenburger Str, Im See; Cross the Volkenbach; through woods and fields; Lottstetten: Cross Weiherweg, Balmerstr, along river (and mostly through wooded terrain) for a while; Ruedlingen: past parking lot on river; cross Rafzerstr, past water treatment plant, Chratzeren, Hinterdorfstr, Sustenstr, Schuelwegli; vineyards, Buchberg, Switzerland: vineyards, Church, Dorfstr

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample of Trail Through Woods by the River
Sample Section of Incline (Buchberg)
Trail by the Roman Bridge

 

Restrooms:

Jestetten, Germany: Bahnhofstr x Saarstr, by the station

Ruedlingen, Switzerland: Chratzeren, at the water treatment facility

Attractions on or near Trail:

Tasting along the Trail: Café Rebe, Buchberg, Dorfstr 22; Besen-Beiz, Buchberg, Lindenhof (after 4 Apr 19)

Alternative Options:

Bike: Rhein-Route 2, Stage 7 (Schaffhausen to Bad Zurzach), a 53-kilometers (33 miles) bicycle itinerary covers this territory and more, following mostly along the Rhine River.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://schaffhauserland.ch/en/

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/wanderung/schwarzwald/rhein-reben-route-im-naturpark-schaffhausen/20734468/

Comments:

An option to cross the river by a small ferry is possible opposite Nack. (Look for the bell to ring to summon the ferry from the far side of the river.) There are not one, but two, water-side eateries there to slack the thirst and sate the hunger of hikers, bikers and boaters!

In Switzerland, instead of distance, the required time is usually indicated. (And in my experience, represents a healthy pace.)

 

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Durch die Reben des Oelberg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Durch die Reben des Oelberg (Through Oelberg Vineyards)

Trail Type: A short distance circuit; well-maintained, but with varying surfaces, from grass to tarmac, marking on the trail is generic, but good throughout.

Length:

Total – 6.8 kilometers/ 4.25 miles

Convenient to: Waldshut-Tiengen, Germany; Schaffhausen, Switzerland

Marking:

Yellow diamond (See featured photo, and comment section below.)

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