What I Learned
The Hessische Bergstrasse wine region is not very well known outside of Germany, in spite of the fact that it begins only about 25 kilometers/16 miles north of the well-visited city of Heidelberg. It is the smallest German wine region, and has only two tiny districts. The Starkenburg district falls between the towns of Zwingenberg, to the north, and Heppenheim on the southern end. The town of Bensheim lies about midway between the two. Bensheim itself is home to a well-known Grosslage, the Wolfsmagen. The Streichling, Hemsberg, Stemmler, and Paulus vineyard areas cover the hills south and east of the old town. Much of the Hemsberg and Paulus have nice exposure to the sun as it sinks behind the Haardt mountains in the Pfalz, on the western side of the Rhine River valley. The Kirchberg and Kalkgasse lie separately, on the northern side of the old town center. Thus, the Wolfsmagen Grosslage can claim almost as much as acreage as the total acreage in the Umstadt district, the other, northern, district within the Hessische Bergstrasse wine region.
The principal grape varietals grown here are Riesling, Grauburgunder, Weissburgunder, and Silvaner. Spaetburgunder is the only red varietal grown here in significant quantities, although, some Dornfelder may be found and used in wine blends.
What I Tasted
2015 Riesling, Bensheimer Wolfsmagen, Hessische Bergstrasse, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Goetzinger: A dry white wine with light plus gold color, green apple and fresh cut grass nose, with green apple and fresh cut grass flavors, with a hint of smoke, tart finish with medium plus acidity.
2014 Riesling, Bensheimer Hemsberg, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Bergstraesser Winzer: A dry white wine with medium-light gold color; talc and slightly floral nose; citrus flavors, some hints of vanilla, mild acidity.
Rotsekt, Cuvee, Halbtrocken, Weinkellerei Josef Mohr (Bensheim): A semi-dry sparkling red wine (mostly Dornfelder) with dark cranberry red color and fine bubbles; nose of spices, predominantly cloves, and red berry and spice flavors.
Trail Name: Lichte Hoehe, Weinberge und Waelder (AKA: (Benheim’s) B4, and Gronau Weg)
Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit trail; partly paved, otherwise hard-packed earthen surfaces, well maintained, route well marked in most places.
Length:
Total: 13 km/8 miles
Marking: B4, written in white letters on a number of surfaces. See the photos below and above.
Trail Description: A real rambler’s ideal: such a variety of landscape, vegetation, and views can be difficult to find along other short trails. Mostly easy, with a couple of mildly challenging ascents, this trail, proceeding from urban to fields and forests, and back, seemed miles from Heidelberg and the busy Rhine River Valley cities, but was quite accessible from them.
Trailhead:
Bensheim: B47 (Nibelungenstr) x Bassmannweg
Parking Possibilities:
Bensheim: B47 (Nibelungenstr) x Bassmannweg
Public Transportation Options:
Rail: Frequent trains from most major cities north, south and west of this town. Check Deutsche Bahn for details.
Suggested Stages: Not applicable
Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (clockwise)
Bensheim: Hauptstrasse x Gebergasse, Friedhofstr, past the cemetery and church, Hemsbergstr- Hemsbergweg, follow toward Hemsberg, vineyards, fields to Gronau; Gronau: Steinfoerstweg, Maerkerwaldstr; follow signs toward Schoenberger Kreuz; forest, Nibelungenstr (and path beside the Lauter creek); Bensheim: Bleichstr, Augartenstr, pass Marktplatz, Hauptstrasse.
Representative Trail Photos:
Restrooms:
Bensheim: Haus am Markt, Marktplatz//Buergerbuero: Hauptstr 39//Bahnhof, in front of it
Attractions on or near Trail:
See Tasting notes below, reference Heppenheim.
Tasting along the Trail:
Bensheim: A couple of wine-makers in the town of Bensheim, several pubs/wine bars offering local wines.
Heppenheim: Nearby town has the Bergstraesser Winzer, a wine cooperative, wine shop and wine tasting lounge, where you will find lots of information about wines and wine-making in this area.
Alternative Options:
Biking: Winzer und Weinstuben Tour, an easy 19-kilometer long bicycle route passing vineyards, wine bars and wineries. See the Nutshell here.
Car: Ferienstrasse Bergstrasse, a 28-kilometer car touring route, includes Bensheim and many more towns, many of them wine producing towns, from Darmstadt to Heidelberg.
Additional Information:
Regional: https://www.bensheim.de/tourismus/touristinformation.html
Trail specific: https://www.bensheim.de/fileadmin/media/bensheim/06-Tourismus/Wanderungen-um-Bensheim.pdf (starting p. 32); AKA: Gronau-Weg
Comments:
The trail name says it all: An easy and very relaxing experience, in a little-known wine region.
Attention wine drinkers: This trail is for you.
Most of the wine- or vineyard-themed trails I have followed focus on seeing particular terroir or grape varieties, or learning about the vinicultural processes involved in making a regional wine. But one trail along the foothills of the Hessische Bergstrasse wine region though, seems to focus on enjoyment of the final product, that is to say, drinking the wines themselves. And given the name of the trail, the Winzer und Weinstuben Tour, (the Vintner and Wine Bar Tour), that is not surprising.
What I Learned
The Hessische Bergstrasse is one of the smallest wine regions in Germany, with less than 450 hectares of land under vine. Facing onto the Rhine River valley, with the Odenwald mountains and forest at its back, the weather here is milder than in most other places in Germany. The name of the region comes from the “mountain road” (Berg Strasse) that the Romans built along the foothills. Roman roads often had relay stations, small forts and taverns to serve officials and soldiers as well as travelling merchants. And where Romans resided, they often planted vines for wine. So, the first evidence of viticulture dates to 2,000 years ago.
Trail Name: Winzer und Weinstuben Tour
Trail Type: Short distance trail; on almost exclusively paved bike paths or roads, well maintained, but the route itself is not marked.
Length: 19 kilometers / 12 miles
Convenient to: Darmstadt or Heidelberg, Germany
Marking: None
Continue reading Winzer und Weinstuben Tour: Trail in a Nutshell
