Tag Archives: Germany/Baden

Biking, Europe

Top Three Cycling Itineraries

 

Like last month, the pandemic has left me without many cycling options for 2021. Therefore, I would like to take the time this month to note some of my favorite cycling itineraries passing through vineyard areas in Europe, in the hopes that someday soon, we can all get out there again to enjoy outdoor and wine tasting adventures with friends!

 

  1. The Place: Germany (Baden) and France (Alsace)

No boundaries!  See great wine producing districts on both sides of the Rhine.

The Activity: Cycling a 235-kilometer-long circuit, the Romanik und Wein/Style Roman et Vin

Why this one: This cycling itinerary offers great diversity: From Black Forest Mountains to the Vosges Mountains, through bucolic fields, woods, and vineyards of course, through hamlets, picturesque villages and the city of Strasbourg, passing from easy, to moderate, to more challenging cycling segments. Cyclists will discover quiet, charming, unspoiled locations in which to take a break, and enjoy the atmosphere. Then comes Strasbourg, with its almost overwhelming sights and opportunities for food, wine, cultural events and people-watching from numerous cafes. Finally, while there is some street riding (although very little of it through Strasbourg as this itinerary passes through the city’s extensive pedestrian zones), much of this itinerary is vehicle-free, using agricultural access lanes, bike paths and even canal tow paths, repurposed and maintained (!) for bicycles.

Caveats: I did not cycle the segment between Wasselonne and Hagenau because this area has no vineyards and it had the most street-riding along the whole itinerary. Therefore, I cannot address any issues there. Most cyclists would require at least three days to complete this circuit, cycling at least 78 kilometers/48 miles a day.

Winning Wine Discovery: Two very different wine cultures and both are delicious!

From East to West:

The Black Forest Mountains, Germany

 

On the Trail: Fields by Hofweier, Germany

 

Heading to Strasbourg on the Rhone to Rhine Canal

 

Strasbourg, France

 

The Vosges, France

 

  1. The Place: Switzerland, the Valais Canton

The Activity: Cycling the 82-kilometer-long Chemin du Vignoble trail from Martigny to Leuk

Why this One: The Alpine scenery is spectacular, no doubt about it. The mountainsides rise dramatically all around, the blue-green Rhone River pours through the valley between them, and cyclists pedal along, enjoying the beauty of it all.

Caveats: This route is listed as difficult, and two days are suggested to complete it. (Sion is the suggested intermediary point.) However, if you reverse the itinerary (from Leuk to Martigny), it is much easier, as it follows the river valley downhill, vice uphill. Mind, there will still be some inclines, but except for the long uphill segment between St Leonard and Grimisuat, they were not show stoppers.

Winning Wine Discovery: Arvine, also known as Petit Arvine, is a white grape varietal indigenous to the Valais region, and very rarely found elsewhere. It is nicely crisp, with unique mineral and citrus flavors. All combined to form a memorable palate of tangy, salty, and slightly sweet (due to ripe, white stone fruit flavors), making a uniquely delicious wine.

 

From the Chemin du Vignoble, Switzerland

 

The Rhone by Martigny

 

St Pierre de Clage, Switzerland

 

Rhone River Valley by Sion

 

  1. The Place: Italy, Bozen/Bolzano

The Activity: Cycling the Weinradroute Nord/Itinerario Nord/Vino e Bici circuit

Why this One: Set in the beautiful Dolomites in the well-regarded Suedtirol/Alto Adige wine region of northern Italy, this district is much less frequented by tourists than many other regions of Italy. But that is not to say it is not visited. It is a popular spot for vacationing Germans and Austrians who take full advantage of the area’s great hiking and biking trails, and the good and plentiful lodging opportunities. In fact, this itinerary is just one of three interconnected (via the Etsch/Adige bike trail) wine-themed cycling circuits.  Thus, while the German names might confuse those not familiar with the rich cultural history of this area, relax – it is still Italy after all – enjoy the great weather of this sunny side of the Alps and take the time to cycle all three!

Caveats: There are some segments of street cycling along narrow roads, with little or no shoulders. Bring a good map or navigation device, as the trail markings were not always where they needed to be.

Winning Wine Discovery: Lagrein is a red grape varietal grown both in the Suedtirol and the neighboring Trentino region. It vinifies as a red wine that produces powerful red berry aromas and flavors.

 

Finally, the Sentiero Valtellina gets an honorable mention here. The trail itself is marvelously laid out along the river valley floor, with views of vertiginous mountainsides, covered with vineyards on the lower stretches, and followed by forests and snow-capped peaks. But most impressive is the fact that five communities work together to keep this trail in great shape, and unusually for Italy, much of this trail’s itinerary is on dedicated bike path!

Siebeneich / Settequerce, Northern Italy

 

Bozen / Bolzano: Festival Musicians

 

The Adige / Etsch River Valley, Italy

 

Castle Firmian Above the Adige
Germany, Hiking

Of Vineyards and Villages

 

Mankind is often hard pressed to improve upon nature. Humans leave an indelible mark on the natural world, and sometimes their efforts can enhance our experiences. In these cases, not just the natural landscape, but also the manmade landscape can appeal equally.

The Rebhisliweg itinerary focuses on manmade huts found in a beautiful, lush landscape. The circuit lies by Wagenstadt, in the Breisgau, a district of Baden. Topographically, layers of hills, some terraced, and ridgelines to the north, south and east devolve into the Black Forest, which appears as a mountain wall, capped by mixed forest vegetation. The dark greens of the fir trees, and the brilliant autumnal leaf colors add to the background. In the distant west, the majestic Vosges, turn from blue to purple as the evening approaches.

Violet Vosges and Yellow Leaves

 

The nearby villages are compact gems, which harmonize, not distract, from nature. Set amongst vineyards, forests and fields, most buildings are only three stories at most. The red roofs set off nicely against nature’s greenery. The eye is drawn to, and then beyond, each village’s church steeple, or municipal bell tower. Each one distinct from the other, a sort of talisman for the inhabitants. The ridgelines ultimately dwarf them, but only because man’s construction draws the eye up, then away, onto that backdrop, thence to the mountain tops.  They serve to unite middle and distant vistas.

Bleichheim

 

At eye level, the manicured vineyards, punctuated with fields, some farmed, others fallow or reclaimed by nature, and small huts. Known as Rebhisli in the old German Alemannic dialect, they are huts for those who work the vineyards. Whether sheltering the workers, or their tools, these vintner huts still exist in Germany. They provided the inspiration for this trail’s name and itinerary. The huts dot the landscape all along the trail. Some vintners still maintain certain huts, whereas nature is slowly reclaiming others. All are picturesque in their own ways, and are often offset against the magnificent landscape.

Now dedicated to Hikers!

 

As this hike left the village of Wagenstadt, it passed through fields before proceeding upward. As the vineyard terraces began, the air filled with the scent of crushed grapes, and fallen leaves. The harvest was mostly over, only the spaetlese or beerenauslese grapes remained, the grape leaves turning yellow.

Vineyards and Villages in Breisgau

 

During the first part of the hike, the views were to the west, toward the Vosges and rapidly sinking sun. In the distance lay the Alsatian town of Selestat, and vineyards, a thin yellowish line, at the foot of the Vosges, somewhere between Dambach la Ville and Scherwiller.

 

Distant Vineyards in Alsace

 

As the trail rounded its southern most extent, and headed north, the first views of the nearby Black Forest came into sight.  Bleichheim and its solitary church steeple hove into view, but put into perspective by the massive foothills of the Black Forest behind. Tutschfelden and its distinctive steeple appeared.

Tutschfelden

 

Heading back toward the village, I passed a couple of wineries, (the Schaudt and the Ringwald), and more vintner huts. All nestled comfortably into the folds of this rolling terrain, and blended in effortlessly. Then just like that, from vineyard to village, I was back in Wagenstadt.

Vineyards, Fields and Forests in Breisgau

 

No, mankind did not outdo nature here, but came in a close second. The true merit of mankind’s efforts was housing the implements, wineries and the taverns where nature’s fruit of the vine could be harvested, produced and enjoyed with friends and neighbors.

Old Rebhisli
Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Breisgau

 

What I Learned:

The Breisgau district in Germany’s Baden Wine Region has some unique topography, both manmade as well as natural. From the ancient Rhine River floodplain, you see ridgeline after ridgeline, each rising higher as it moves away from the Rhine, and toward the upper reaches of the Black Forest to the east.

The vine-covered hills, usually on the first or second ridgelines after the plain, tend to be small, but steep. Vintners have terraced many of them over time. The terraced banks provide plenty of opportunity to notice the primarily loess and sandy soils that predominate in this district.

Just south of this circuit, in vineyards near Mundingen, archeological finds attest to winemaking taking place on the left bank of the Rhine beginning in Roman times. (These sources identify areas in Alsace and the Pfalz.) On the right bank of the Rhine, winemaking can be definitively dated to the Carolingian era, around 781 A.D., in the Kaiserstuhl.

In the Breisgau, the first written mention of vineyards in nearby Koendringen (further east from the Rhine than the Kaiserstuhl district), dates to 1307, although it may be supposed that it actually occurred earlier.

In other places in the Breisgau though, viticulture is fairly recent. In Glottertal, a sign on the Rebhaeusle, an historic vintner’s hut on the Breisgauer Weinweg trail, notes that the first vineyards in the valley date from 1868.

This district produces red and white wines. Mueller-Thurgau is the most planted white varietal, followed by Rulaender (Grauer Burgunder/Pinot Gris), and then Pinot Blanc. The Pinot (Burgunder) varietals are widely planted here. In fact, according to the Weinlandbreisgau.de site, the Blauer Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) constitutes a whopping 42.9% of all wine made in the Breisgau. Combined with the Pinot Blanc figure of 9.5% and the Pinot Gris figure of 12%, this means that the Pinots themselves constitute over 60% of all wine from this area. Not surprising considering that France is less than 30 minutes from here.

Most planted varietal in the Breisgau area around Kippenheim is the Spaetburgunder. Other areas within the Breisgau grow the red varietals of Regent (developed in 1967 in the neighboring Pfalz wine region) and Cabernet Mitos, and Riesling and Chardonnay as other white varietals. All other grapes grown constitute less than one per cent of the total.

 

What I Tasted:

2018 Gutedel, Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; mineral and slight floral nose, with slight toasted nuts and fruity flavors; medium acidity.

2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Ettenheimer Kaiserberg, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Trocken, Wein und Sektgut Weber (Ettenheim): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of gooseberry and citrus, with gooseberry, citrus and slight spice and pear flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart finish, well balanced and a great representative of this varietal wine.

2016 Grauburgunder, Blankenhornsberger Doktorgarten, VDP Grosse Lage, Trocken, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A dry white wine with medium minus gold color, mineral and sweet floral nose, with white stone fruit, vanilla and floral flavors; medium plus acidity, but a very smooth finish with lingering complex flavors.

2016 Solaris, Auslese, Lieblich, Staatweingut Freiburg (Freiburg): A sweet white wine, with medium gold color; mineral, honey and floral nose, with floral, exotic fruits and bergamot flavors; low acidity.

 

 

 

 

 

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Rebhisliweg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Grosse Rebhisliweg

Trail Type: A short distance circuit; well-maintained and mostly hard-packed or paved with some grassy surface; marking on the trail fairly good, but a map could be useful.

Length:

Total – 7.4 kilometers/5.2 miles

Convenient to: Freiburg, Germany

Marking: A rectangular red background with a stylized white letter W, with a stylized white hut inside it

 

Trail Description: A gentle hike over modest inclines with well-maintained trail surfaces through vineyards and fields with the vintner huts throughout. Great views in all directions, but especially toward the Black Forest.

Trailhead:

Herbolzheim-Wagenstadt, August Ziegler Weg, by the Evangelical church

Parking:

Herbolzheim-Wagenstadt, Im Erb or Im Weiherle

Public Transportation Options:

Rail and Bus: Herbolzheim, and nearby Kenzingen, are two of the many stations on the main north-south train route through the Rhine River Valley. DeutscheBahn (DB) has many trains serving this area, and operates buses which serve the nearby villages like Wagenstadt.

Suggested Stages: Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Herbolzheim-Wagenstadt: Kenzingerstr, Brechterstal, fields, vineyards, edge of forest, vineyards, Weingut Schaudt, Kenzingerstr, Ob dem Dorf, past the cemetery, vineyards, down a slope to trailhead.

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Gravel Trail Surface

 

Grass Trail Section

 

Representative Trail Section in Vineyards

 

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

None related to wine

Tasting along the Trail:

Three wineries are on the trail (but note hours), plus other wineries and taverns in the nearby towns Kenzingen and Malterdingen

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Nearby Ettenheim has the Weinwanderung Kaiserberg, a circuit similar in distance and landscape. See the Nutshell here.

Car: The Badische Weinstrasse, a car route of over 500 kilometers on mostly secondary roads, covers not only Wagenstadt, Bleicheim and Tutschfelden, but most of the wine villages and towns from Laudenbach, north of Heidelberg, to Weil am Rhein by Basel, Switzerland.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.schwarzwald-tourismus.info/schwarzwald/regionen/region-europa-park

Trail specific: https://www.alltrails.com/explore/map/rebhisliweg-wagenstadt

Comments:

Two trails actually, with a tiny bit of overlap, the Grosse, or long trail has red signage, and the shorter one (about 4.1 kilometers) has blue and yellow signage.

A pleasant trail, and I could recommend it for families with children of about six or seven and up.

The one grass covered surface section might not be mowed, which could be an issue in mid-summer. However, there are easily identifiable detours all around.

 

Germany, Hiking

Hiking Rings Around Kaiserberg

 

Above the small town of Ringsheim, after a long, but steady, climb up the Kaiserberg, I took in my first view of the distant mountains. Off to the west, over 30 kilometers (18.5 miles) away, were the Vosges Mountains in Alsace, standing out against a clear sky. Off to the east were the mountains of Germany’s best-known forest, the Black Forest. I took some time to try to get good photos, thinking the opportunity was too good to pass. I was there, the sun was in the right position, and the atmospherics were mostly clear. Little did I know that I would cross close to this spot again, to complete the second part of this circuit trail, which was laid out like a rough figure eight. In fact, there were several circuit trails in this hiking paradise.

Black Forest Scene

 

So twice the hike to the top of the Kaiserberg, which really is not as challenging as it may seem. On the plus side, I had two opportunities to take in the great views. But the Kaiserberg is really famous in this area of the Breisgau for its vines and wines. In fact, the official start of this trail is in Ettenheim, a town at the foot of the Kaiserberg that attracted a famous French nobleman and bon-vivant: Bishop (later Cardinal) Louis Rene Edouard de Rohan. Maybe it was the wines?

Ettenheim

 

The situation of the Kaiserberg and Ettenheim is good for capturing sun and warmth, being high enough – but not too high – in the foothills of the Black Forest, with good and long western and southern exposure to sun. The scenery was certainly an attraction as well: dark green of the Black Forest, little blue mill ponds and the peaked mountain tops on both sides of the valley. Some of these were still snow covered. But to my delight, flowers were already blooming along the trail, a surefire indicator of imminent spring weather.

Daffodils in Early March

 

It was still too early though for the taverns on the trail to be open. (Normally, taverns on trails close in winter, and don’t open until at least Easter or April, whichever comes first.) Pity, as the trail passed two, each looking equally inviting. One was close to the highest point of the Kaiserberg, next to an observation tower. The other, set in a traditional style building, was nestled further down the Kaiserberg in a hollow, where it was warm and sunny, and sheltered from wind for the most part. Very gemuetlich! Both offer local wines, as there are several vintners in the surrounding towns of Ringsheim, Ettenheim and Herbolzheim, producing some of the best wines in the Breisgau wine district.

A Wine Tavern on the Trail

 

Fortunately though, the trail ends (and begins) by the Weingut Weber (Weber Winery). While their “wine lounge” with its attractive  view from the patio was also closed, at least the shop and restaurant were open. Maybe Cardinal de Rohan knew something, or maybe he started something, but it is certainly true that one can eat, drink and even hike well in this bucolic corner of the Breisgau.

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Baden’s Breisgau District

 

What I Learned:

The Breisgau area of Germany’s Baden Wine Region has some unique topography, both natural and manmade. From the plain, you see ridgeline after ridgeline, each rising higher as it moves away from the Rhine, and toward the upper reaches of the Black Forest to the east.

This district produces red and white wines, in almost equal quantities. Mueller-Thurgau is the most planted white varietal, followed by Rulaender (Grauer Burgunder/Pinot Gris), and then Pinot Blanc. The Pinot (Burgunder) varietals are widely planted here. In fact, according to the Weinlandbreisgau.de site, the Blauer Spaetburgunder (Pinot Noir) constitutes a whopping 42.9% of all wine made in the Breisgau. Combined with the Pinot Blanc figure of 9.5% and the Pinot Gris figure of 12%, this means that the Pinots themselves constitute over 60% of all wine from this area.

Most planted varietal in the Breisgau area around Kippenheim is the Spaetburgunder. Other areas within the Breisgau grow the red varietals of Regent (developed in 1967 in the neighboring Pfalz wine region) and Cabernet Mitos, and Riesling and Chardonnay as other white varietals. All other grapes grown each constitute less than one per cent of the total.

 

What I Tasted:

2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Ettenheimer Kaiserberg, Trocken, Deutscher Qualitaetswein, Wein und Sektgut Weber (Ettenheim): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of gooseberry and citrus, with gooseberry, citrus and slight spice and pear flavors; medium plus acidity, with a tart finish, well balanced and a great representative of this varietal wine.

2012 Weissburgunder, Ettenheimer Kaiserberg, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Jaeger (Ettenheimweiler): A dry white wine with medium gold color; citrus flavors with a full mouthfeel.

2011 Grauburgunder, Ettenheimer Kaiserberg, Trocken, Qualitaetswein, Weingut Jaeger, (Ettenheimweiler): A dry white wine with light gold color; floral notes with a trace of minerality, and a full, smooth mouthfeel.

Sekt, Brut, Blanc de Noir, Deutscher Sekt, Wein und Sektgut Weber (Ettenheim): A dry red sparkling wine vinified white, with very fine, lively bubbles, and dark minus golden color; floral and yeast nose, green apple and bread flavors; medium plus acidity.

 

 

 

 

 

Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

 Weinbergwanderung Kaiserberg: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Weinbergwanderung Kaiserberg AKA Weinwanderwege am Kaiserberg

Trail Type: Short distance figure eight circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, fairly good marking on the trail.

Length: 9.75 kilometers/6 miles

Convenient to: Offenburg, Freiburg, Baden-Wuerttemberg, Germany

Marking: Small, yellow aluminum signs with black lettering and stylized black grapes on the side. (Bottom three in the photo below)

Many Trails, Many Signs on the Kaiserberg

 

Trail Description:

This moderately challenging hike (with several inclines and declines), covers the Kaiserberg, a hilly and wonderfully rural area set in the foothills of the Black Forest, yet not far from more urban areas. The biggest towns of Herbolzheim and Ettenheim sponsor several marked wine-themed trails, to include a short wine education trail through the vineyards. This trail, sponsored originally by the Weber winery, joins segments of these shorter trails to make a longer circuit, suitable for families young and old, and even cyclists.

Trailhead:

Ettenheim, Im Offental

Parking:

Ettenheim has a number of small parking lots, not too far from the trail. The closest is on Schwarzwaldstrasse

A small, unimproved parking lot at the top of the main Kaiserberg hill may be reached via Ringsheim’s Bergwerkstrasse.

See the additional comment below about parking.

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: Regional trains DB and SBB) frequently service the Ettenheim area (The closest station to the trail is Ringsheim.)

Bus: Sudbadenbus services this area, and provides route and schedule information at www.suedbadenbus.de

Suggested Stages:

Either the northern or southern half of the figure eight circuit may be hiked separately

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Ettenheim: Im Offental, through the Weber winery complex, vineyards, past a memorial with benches; up a draw between vines and woodline; past Kahlenbergkapelle (chapel); toward Lindenmann-Hutte (hut), scenic overlook with boulders; downhill into vineyards; past a hut; On Margarten, past Hummels Viehweid Straussi (Tavern), continue through vineyards; through intersection/section of trail by Kahlenbergkapelle; Heubergturm; through vineyards, return to Weber winery.

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Non-Asphalt Surface of Trail

 

Restrooms:

Heubergturm (on the trail) has restrooms, but they are sometimes locked.

Attractions on or near Trail:

Just lots of bucolic scenery.

Tasting along the Trail:

Weber winery, and two seasonal taverns: the Heubergturm, and Hummels Viehweid Straussi; all right on the trail.

Alternative Options:

Hiking: In addition to the long-distance/multi-day Breisgauer Weinweg (see the Nutshell here), there are several circuit hikes. These range from 1 to 5 kilometers, and may be combined for more distance and hiking pleasure. See Ettenheim’s https://www.ettenheim.de/weinwanderwege-am-kaiserberg to download the flyer.

Car: The Badische Weinstrasse, a 200-kilometer car route for wine enthusiasts, begins in Baden-Baden and ends at Weil Am Rhein (on the Swiss border). It roughly follows Highway 3 from north to south, passing through the towns listed here.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.ettenheim.de/tourismus-kultur-freizeit

Trail specific: https://www.outdooractive.com/de/wanderung/schwarzwald/weinbergwanderung-kaiserberg-weingut-weber-ettenheim/117526408/#dm=1

Comments:

The Weber winery actively promotes hiking, hence many Weber signs and some events happen here in the vineyards on the Kaiserberg. However, while parking may be allowed in their large parking lot during those times, the sign otherwise notes that parking is only for winery customers.

One small section of the trail, the roughest surface section, was closed off that day due to the danger of falling trees. However, an alternative was clearly marked, and rejoined the trail within a few hundred meters.