A castle stands atop an unusually steep, vine-covered hill, just east of the German city of Heilbronn in wine region of Wuerttemberg. Famous for having defied the Emperor, the little town of Weinsberg has a unique story. Was it the wine that inspired them?
What I Learned
The Wuerttemberg wine region, while not perhaps the best-known German wine region, has made significant contributions to wine culture throughout Germany and the world. Wuerttemberg’s Unterland district is one of six that makes up this region. The small town of Weinsberg, near the city of Heilbronn, are in this district (and on the trail), and have oenological claims to fame.
Trail Name: Wiesen, Wein und Treue Weiber (Fields, Wine and True Women)
Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; varied surfaces (grass, dirt, paved); mostly well-maintained, but the route itself is not specifically marked.
Length: 13.5 kilometers/8.5 miles
Convenient to: Heilbronn, Germany
Marking: None uniquely specific to the trail’s itinerary. The photo below merely indicates first marking. (See the itinerary below.)
Attention wine drinkers: This trail is for you.
Most of the wine- or vineyard-themed trails I have followed focus on seeing particular terroir or grape varieties, or learning about the vinicultural processes involved in making a regional wine. But one trail along the foothills of the Hessische Bergstrasse wine region though, seems to focus on enjoyment of the final product, that is to say, drinking the wines themselves. And given the name of the trail, the Winzer und Weinstuben Tour, (the Vintner and Wine Bar Tour), that is not surprising.
What I Learned
The Hessische Bergstrasse is one of the smallest wine regions in Germany, with less than 450 hectares of land under vine. Facing onto the Rhine River valley, with the Odenwald mountains and forest at its back, the weather here is milder than in most other places in Germany. The name of the region comes from the “mountain road” (Berg Strasse) that the Romans built along the foothills. Roman roads often had relay stations, small forts and taverns to serve officials and soldiers as well as travelling merchants. And where Romans resided, they often planted vines for wine. So, the first evidence of viticulture dates to 2,000 years ago.
Trail Name: Winzer und Weinstuben Tour
Trail Type: Short distance trail; on almost exclusively paved bike paths or roads, well maintained, but the route itself is not marked.
Length: 19 kilometers / 12 miles
Convenient to: Darmstadt or Heidelberg, Germany
Marking: None
Continue reading Winzer und Weinstuben Tour: Trail in a Nutshell
At this point on my hike along the Wi Wegli, I had no doubt that years from now, all my wine-themed hiking experiences considered, the Wii Wegli in the southern Baden wine region, will rank in my top three. This long-distance hiking trail provided a delightful hiking experience as well as a great tasting experience in one. From south (by Basel, Switzerland) to north (by Freiburg) great experiences awaited over every hill, and in every village. By the time I reached Muellheim, I had not realized that some of the best were yet to come.
I left Niederweiler, overshadowed from on high by the ancient Celtic, Roman and medieval edifices of Badenweiler, and climbed an equally formidable slope on the other side of the village, the Roemerberg. The climb was mostly through vineyards. Emerging from the forests that crown the top of the Roemerberg, beginning the descent, I spotted the village of Britzingen. Like so many of its neighboring villages, it is set in a hollow, following along a rushing mountain stream, and surrounded by green. However, the full magical effect of these discoveries came shortly afterwards as I wandered through eerily still Muggardt, the sole lane winding up through the hamlet on its way to vineyards.
