Tag Archives: Germany

Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Rheinhessen Reds

 

What I Learned:

Of all the German states, Rheinland Pfalz has the most wine regions. And of all the German wine regions, the Rheinhessen wine region is the largest. Situated on the left/west bank of the Rhine, between roughly Worms and Mainz, it extends away from the river to as far west as Alzey-Weinheim, itself about 25 kilometers from the Rhine. In total, Rheinhessen vines cover approximately 26,000 hectares/65,000 acres.

The area round Ingelheim is known for its Spaetburgunder, or Pinot Noir. Most recent figures from the German Wine Institute show that white varietals represent about 63% of all cultivated vineyards, not unsurprising in a country where Riesling is king. However, more red varietals are being planted as the years pass, and of these, Spaetburgunder, Pinot Noir, leads the way with an impressive 11.5% of all red varietals in cultivated vineyards.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Hiwweltour Bismarckturm: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Hiwweltour Bismarckturm

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; trail surface variable – from earthen to paved, includes stairs, well maintained overall; the route itself is fairly well-marked.

Length: 10.3 kilometers/6.4 miles

Convenient to: Mainz, Germany

Marking: A cursive lower-case “h” on a half-blue/half-green rectangular-shaped background

Hiwweltour Signage

 

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Germany, Hiking

Dettelbach’s Vines and Wines

 

The Maindreieck wine region in Franconia is an area of quiet refinement. This region offers lovingly preserved ancient towns untouched by mass tourism, and miles of fruitful vineyards producing some unique wines (and wine bottles), all nestled within the gentle curve of the Main River. Yet the sophistication of Wuerzburg, in terms of food and wine, pervades throughout.

Dettelbach, where this circuit trail begins, is a charming old town along the Main River. Behind its town walls, lies a hidden jewel, filled with carefully maintained half-timbered houses, Renaissance and Baroque era churches and chapels, and old homes with private courtyards, some now offering seating for very good restaurants.  Exploring inside the walls is fun, but making the rounds of the existing wall sections and towers is even more interesting, as the towers’ architecture suggests centuries of upkeep and renovation.

Dettelbach Walls and Towers

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Germany, Wines

Wine Notes: Maindreieck’s Dettelbach

 

Bavaria’s only wine region, Franconia, has three wine districts, the Maindreieck, the Mainviereck, and the Steigerwald.  These wine growing regions are actually closer to Frankfurt am Main, than they are to Munich, the state of Bavaria’s capital. The Maindreieck, a triangle of land formed by an almost 180 degree turn in the Main River’s course, is particularly favored by nature to produce grapes. One of the major sites in terms of size is by the small town of Dettelbach, known for its consistently good wines.

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Germany, Hiking, Nutshell

Dettelbach: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Traumrunde Dettelbach

Trail Type: Mid-distance hiking circuit; well-maintained and almost exclusively paved, good marking on the trail.

Length: 10.5 kilometers/ 6.5 miles

Convenient to: Wuerzburg, or Kitzingen, Germany

Marking: Red semi-circle on a white background

TraumRunde Dettelbach Signage

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Biking, Germany

Tavern Touring

 

I must confess: I was not looking forward to this bike ride. It is not in a well-known wine area; actually, it’s not in a well-known area, period. The day was overcast and seemed to threaten rain. Once on the ground though, my mood improved, and kept improving as the miles sped by. (Or in some cases, crept by, as this is a hilly area to traverse on bicycle, the steep, hill-without-end between Grossvillars and Sternenfels coming to mind.)

Sternenfels – Church and Castle

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Biking, Germany, Nutshell

Besen Tour: Trail in a Nutshell

Trail Name: Besen Tour

Trail Type: Medium distance cycling circuit; well-maintained and much of it paved surface, fairly good marking along the trail.

Length: 36.5 kilometers/ 22.5 miles

Convenient to: Karlsruhe, Pforzheim, or Heilbronn, Germany

Marking: A white square metal plaque with a broom and the words “Besen Tour”

Besen Tour Signage

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Biking, Germany

White Gold in Baden

 

Anyone fortunate enough to be in Germany in late April, May or the first half of June, has undoubtedly experienced “Spargel Saison”: Asparagus Season. These are not your ordinary asparagus spears! They are round, and fat, and so fresh-looking as to be unreal. They are ethereally white, and they have a dainty crisp-tenderness that defies description. They can also be extremely expensive, with the first local spears starting at around $30 for a kilo (2.2 pounds). It is the white gold of the vegetable world (excepting hops shoots, which relate to beer so we won’t go there) – ranking up there with other costly edibles such as white truffles and saffron.

Come Asparagus Season, traditional dishes such as asparagus cream soup (many variations, but all delicious), and steamed asparagus spears with herbed crepes (or steamed potatoes) and hollandaise sauce, make their seasonal appearance on menus across the country, but especially in the Rhine Valley. Suggested wine pairings include Baden’s Gutedel, and Franconia’s Silvaner wines.

Palatable White Gold from Baden

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