Tag Archives: France/Rhone

Wine Notes: Cote Rotie

 

What I Learned

France’s great Northern Rhone River Valley appellations begin about 20 miles downriver from Lyon by Ampuis. Eight appellations in total from north to south, the famous Cote Rotie appellation, on the river’s right bank, is where some of the worlds famous vineyards and wines begin.

The appellation begins in Saint Cyr-sur-le Rhone, and ends in Tupin-et-Semons. Ampuis, in the middle, is particularly well situated as its slopes face in a more southerly direction. Vines have been planted on the slopes overlooking Ampuis for over 2500 years. The town has two famous slopes: Cote Brune and Cote Blonde. Legend says that these names arose when the local count provided the slope now known as Cote Blonde as a dowry for his fair-haired daughter, and the slope now called Cote Brune for his brunette daughter. The soil in this appellation is an iron-rich schist soil, overlaid by limestone and granitic components. Some wine enthusiasts find in general that, due to slight soil differences, Cote Blonde produces a softer style of wine, and Cote Brune, with more clay in the soil mix, tends to result in bigger and more powerful wines.

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Sentier des Vignes: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Sentier des Vignes (a Ampuis)

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; varying surfaces, from tarmac/concrete (about half) to earthen, to loose gravel, fairly well maintained, and fairly well marked.

Length: 7.1 kilometers/4.4 miles

Convenient to: Lyon or Vienne, France

Marking: Black lettering “Ampuis 1” on yellow and white (beginning at Route de la Brocarde)

Trail Marking for Sentier des Vignes

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The Vineyards of Vacqueyras

 

Although side-by-side, Vacqueyras and Gigondas have more dissimilarities than just their wines. Gigondas is nestled within the lower folds of the Dentelles de Montmirail crests. Small, hidden, in a complex landscape, it exudes a sense of remoteness and secrecy. Vacqueyras lies on flatter land, in the shadow of the Dentelles, and is bigger. There is a sense of town, vice village, and although still partly behind old walls, has an open, friendly atmosphere.

Quiet Corner in Vacqueyras

 

The trail here was also a bit more friendly, user-friendly that is. So, I took my best friend along, one who hasn’t hiked in a while, but this trail is suitable for all fitness levels. We had a memorable morning hiking along a signposted trail, followed by some wine tasting, and then lunch. What could be better than that?

Us, and Our Shadows

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Wine Notes: Vacqueyras

 

What I Learned

Vacqueyras is a small town in Provence, France, with a big name in the wine world. Like its neighboring AOC Gigondas, the southern Rhone reds from Vacqueyras are big and powerful. However, there are some important differences between these two appellations.

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Trail in a Nutshell: Vignoble de Vacqueyras

 

Trail Name: Parcours du Vignoble de Vacqueyras

Trail Type: Short distance; surface is mostly paved, with some grassy stretches; fairly well maintained, and fairly well marked.

Length: 8 kilometers/5 miles

Convenient to: Orange or Carpentras, Vaucluse, France

Marking: Grape leaf cut-out on a square rust-brown sign; 17 panels

Trail Marker: Vignoble de Vacqueyras

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Wine and the Dentelles

 

What do the Dentelles de Montmirail and Gigondas wines have in common?  In my mind, both are compelling and chiseled. The explanation is a bit further below. First, some definitions of terms used.

What are the Dentelles? A scientific explanation would go into the creation of limestone, and then into a discussion of plate tectonics and fault lines. Together, these geological forces created sharp ridges of jagged, limestone peaks rising over 500 meters. A photograph is much more impressive though.

Dentelles
Dentelles

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Wine Notes: Gigondas

 

What I Learned

Wines from France’s southern Rhone Valley are quite popular. However, within that geographic area, and distinct from the Rhone appellation, there are distinct appellations singled out for their exceptional quality. Gigondas wines merit both their own appellation and the praise they evoke. Powerful and distinctive, they have a unique taste due in large part to the unique geology of the area.

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Gigondas: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Not named officially

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; paved in the village, loose stone, and uneven, rocky and earthen surfaces otherwise. (These are mostly dry, and can be slippery in places). The trail is somewhat maintained, but the route itself is neither named nor consistently marked.

Length: Total: (Approximately) 6.5 kilometers/ 4 miles

Convenient to: Orange, or Avignon, France

Marking: Initially red and yellow rectangular lines, then blue dots and/or yellow rectangular lines.

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