Tag Archives: France/Rhone

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Condrieu

 

What I Learned

Three great Appellations d’Origine Controlee (AOC) begin about 20 miles south from Lyon. They are, from north to south, the famous Cote Rotie, Condrieu, and St Joseph. In these AOC, the Syrah and the Viognier varietals reign supreme.

Condrieu is a small town, and the vines of its appellation are sandwiched between the Cote Rotie appellation, and the Saint Joseph appellation, While the Cote Rotie is famous for its red wines, Condrieu is famous for its white wines. And while the Saint Joseph appellation is the largest in this part of the northern Rhone, the Condrieu appellation is one of the smallest in the region.

This appellation covers only about 260 hectares, and only six other communes (Chavanay, Limony, Malleval, Verin, Saint Michel sur Rhone, and Saint Pierre de Boeuf), most of which are considerably smaller than Condrieu. Encircled by this appellation is one of the smallest appellations in France: Chateau Grillet.

The white Viognier grape is the sole varietal for the Condrieu and Chateau Grillet appellations. This varietal produces delicious, full bodied and full-flavored wines that are perfumed treasures for white wine lovers. Only about 6000 hectoliters are produced each year in the Condrieu appellation. (And unless you have very deep pockets, you can forget about including a bottle of Chateau Grillet, with its even smaller production, in your collection of appellation Viognier wine from this area.)

Granitic soils predominate here, unlike the limestone and calcareous soils in so many other non-Rhone Valley appellations. The unique substrata in the northern Rhone area forced the river to carve its way south. The valley here is rather narrow and twisting (and quite picturesque), resulting in numerous vineyards with steep south facing exposures – great for soaking up sun and retaining heat!

 

What I Tasted

2016 Viognier, AOP, Domaine Louis Clerc: A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of spice, green wood; and flavors of spice, wood, and vanilla; medium acidity, smooth aromatic finish.

2016 Viognier, Resurgence, Appellation Condrieu Protegee, Xavier Mourier (Chavanay): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose of spice, green wood; and flavors of spice, wood, vanilla; medium acidity, smooth aromatic finish

2016 Viognier, La Berne, Vieilles Vignes, Appellation Condrieu Controlee Domaine Lionel Faury (Chavanay): A dry white wine with medium gold color; nose is fruity and slightly floral, with white stone fruit and vanilla flavors; medium plus acidity, with a smooth medium length finish.

2016 Viognier, La Berne, Appellation Condrieu Controlee Domaine Lionel Faury: A dry white wine with medium gold color; a mineral and slightly floral nose, with floral, clove, oak, and vanilla flavors; medium acidity and length

2016 Viognier, Les Rouelles, Appellation Condrieu Controlee, Gilles Flacher (Charnas): A dry white wine with medium gold color; spice and smoky nose, with floral, spice and smoky flavors; high acidity, but a relatively smooth finish.

 

 

 

 

 

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Les Coteaux St Michel: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Les Coteaux St Michel, AKA Saint Michel n. 1

Trail Type: Short distance; somewhat maintained and varied surfaces from paved to rough, with loose gravel on some of the steep slopes, marking on the trail good, but with one exception, not specific to the trail itself.

Length:

Total – about 7 kilometers/ 4.5 miles

Convenient to: Vienne and Lyon, France

Marking:

A white horizonal bar over a yellow horizonal bar, and occasionally a post noting current location and direction arrows with distances to further locations. (See photo above)

 

Trail Description:

A beautiful and sometimes challenging trail through a variety of landscapes from hamlets to fields and forests, but mostly dominated by scenes of the Condrieu vineyards and the Rhone River. With the dramatic views, and constantly changing trail, this trail will satisfy those looking to explore the quiet area of this small appellation.

Trailhead:

Official: St Michel sur Rhone: Mairie – R du Solon x Place des Muriers

Mine: Rue de la Voie Romaine, Verin

Parking:

St Michel sur Rhone: R du Solon, by church about 20 places; Rue Haute (Place du Bourg Vieille), about 9 spots

Verin: R. Nationale, parking along the street, south of R Jean Vincent, and between R. de la Voie Romaine and D34; small lot at the intersection of R Jean Vincent and R. Nationale/D34

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: SNCF routes north to Lyon and south to Valence, pass through the station St Clair les Roches, across the river from Condrieu in Les Roches de Condrieu.

Bus: Bus, more like van, service is available on demand.

Suggested Stages: Not Applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

St Michel sur Rhone: Place des Muriers, La Piaton, woods, Impasse Cote Foret, Cote Foret (along tracks), cross D1086, dogleg , R du Grand Val, north on R de Lone, east to R. de Jassoux, Impasse du Puit, cross tracks, Impasse de la Croix Rouge, Impasse de Poncin, cross tracks, north on R. Roches Molles (Chateau Grillet); Verin : R. de la Voie Romaine, R. de Beatrice de Roussillon, path on left by house just after underpass, above another house, Impasse de la Croix Margot, R. de la Cartherie, Impasse au Bois, R. de l’Ollagniere ; Impasse la Gaie, down between house and pool, R Rampot

Representative Trail Photos:

Trail Section: An Underpass

 

Representative Surface -Loose Stone and Rock

 

Trail Between Houses

 

Restrooms:

St Michel sur Rhone: R du Solon, by church and Restaurant

Attractions on or near Trail:

Just lots of wonderful views of the famed vineyards

Tasting along the Trail:

Condrieu, the town, has the most wineries, although there are a few, smaller ones along the trail, especially in Saint Michel sur Rhone

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Dans les Vignobles de Cote-Rotie et Condrieu, a three-day, 44-kilometer circuit trail of short stages around both the Cote Rotie and Condrieu appellations.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.condrieu.fr/# and https://www.vienne-condrieu.com/

Trail specific: https://www.mairie-saintmichelsurrhone.fr/loisirs_randonnees_a_saint_michel.php

Comments:

There were a couple of places where the trail followed in between a house and a barn or other building, or a house and a pool. In all cases, it was indeed part of the trail. (There were a couple of rail track underpasses as well.  )

France, Hiking

In the Drome – Provencale

 

Walking through the garrigue, only a few meters away from the Vaucluse, with views of the Baronnies Provencales National Park, with its arid landscape, surrounded by vines producing Cotes du Rhone wine, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Provence.

Instead, I was in the Drome Provencale, in Saint Pantaleon-Les Vignes, to be exact. A wine-themed trail developed in association with the local cooperative, the Vignerons de Valleon, runs through and around the village. While the trail begins in the village, itself on the border with the Vaucluse, it soon enters vineyards. Not surprising as the village has the word “vines” in its name.

Vineyards Beginning at Village Edge

 

Saint Pantaleon is one of the 16 or so villages dedicated to producing some of the best Cotes du Rhone red wines there are. The village wines may carry the appellation name Cotes du Rhone Village and its own name on its bottles, a signal honor indeed. No doubt they had plenty of practice. In 900s, it was officially cited as having vineyards, although at that point, viticulture was probably close to a thousand years old in the area. Proud of their history, there is a wine education trail along part of the trail apparently identified by number bottles (but I lacked the brochure/key to what it all meant).

 

View of St Pantaleon

 

At a cluster of farmsteads, passing several palm trees slightly swaying in a warm February breeze, the trail began to lead to different terrain. A different, wilder, landscape begins to appear. After passing through the hamlet on the other side of the main road, the trail leads to a ravine. The exposed bank showed a mix of sand, clay and pebbles, mostly limestone, it seemed. So, this is what the vines grew in! Fortunately, it had not rained for a while. The small stream ran swiftly along its base, and judging from the gravel and rocks on the trail, it ferociously overran its banks on occasion. Picking my way over the rubble, I followed the trail uphill.

Torrente de la Fosse

 

After a short and gentle incline, I soon reached the high ground. Unlike the vineyards below, these vineyards were sheltered and more discrete. Wandering through a mix of vineyard, fields and woods, it was a quietly peaceful interlude. All the better to enjoy the beautiful views. The distant Rhone River Valley and the Ardeche mountains lay to the west, at a minimum some 30 kilometers (20 miles) way, but appearing closer in the bright sun and clear air. To the north and east, the Baronnies National Park and the Prealpes, foothills to the Alps further east, seemed close enough to reach out and touch.

Baronnies Provencales National Park

 

The terrain is lined with ravines, some with water. While the trail managed to avoid the roughest parts, it did have some ascents and descents along the way. Luckily the trail crossed one of the drops along a viaduct. It had been constructed for the train from the Rhone to Nyons, further east. The cooperative created a red wine cuvee and named it in honor of the train, and the bottle label bears a drawing of the train passing along the viaduct.

The Old Viaduct

 

As I headed downhill, the smell of garrigue filled the air: Pine, rosemary, and thyme. Lavender plants, not in bloom in winter, were nonetheless present here and there. The generally dry and mostly sunny climate in this part of France enables these plants, along with grape vines, to grow well here. In fact, in many places, they will grow wild. Running fingers through a wild rosemary bush on the trail, is one way to whet an appetite for dinner – which naturally would include local wine. What a nice end to a day on the trail!

Garrigue
France, Wines

Wine Notes: Drome’s Cotes du Rhone

 

What I Learned

Cotes du Rhone covers a large area, but this post covers only wines from the central part of the Department of Drome, on the left bank of the Rhone River. In the area between Montelimar (of nougat fame) and Orange (a famed Roman colony), where the Drome meets Provence’s department of the Vaucluse, this part of the large Drome department is tellingly known as the “Drome Provencale.”

In this region, Lyon is a distant northern memory, and Avignon is only an hour south by car. It is an area that is overwhelmingly agricultural, with a triad of Mediterranean crops: Lavender, olives, and of course, grapes. Viticulture has a pre-classical history here, as many believe the vine was introduced not by the Romans, as is so often the case in regions north or west of the Alps, but by the Phoenicians, some 500 years BCE.

Within the Cotes du Rhone appellation, there are two, higher, or more esteemed appellations: The Cotes du Rhone Village, and the Cotes du Rhone “Named Village” appellations. Rousset les Vignes, Saint Pantaleon les Vignes, and Suze la Rousse, among others, are named villages, within the Drome, and all within my defined scope.

Here, in the Drome, the Appellation Cotes du Rhone wine is true to the humbler roots of its terroir. The red wines are fruit-forward, untamed and unpretentious wines, with definite value for money. As the tasting notes below note, in this area, even the simple (and inexpensive) Cotes du Rhone wines are flavorful, full-bodied wines. It is where vineyards large and small are in abundance, and family run wineries co-exist with cooperatives. Most of the wine produced here is red, with some rose, and a small amount of white wine.

The Cooperative of the Vignerons de Valleon, making Cotes du Rhone wines with grapes from Saint Pantaleon des Vignes and Rousset les Vignes, is a significant contributor to the economy in this area of a very rural Drome. It produces Cotes du Rhone red, white and rose wines, and Cotes du Rhone Village red (only) wines. A commemorative cuvee “Le Petit Train,” honors the little train from Nyons to Pierrelatte, that used to pass over a viaduct within the township of Saint Pantaleon les Vignes, where the cooperative is located. The cooperative also sponsored the wine-themed trail which crosses over the viaduct at one point on its itinerary. History, vines, wines and pride of community all in one, making it a great place to visit! (See https://www.valleon.fr/ and the associated Nutshell for this trail here. )

 

What I Tasted

2017 Le Petit Train, Appellation d’Origine Controlee Cotes du Rhone, Vignerons de Valleon (Saint Pantaleon-les-Vignes): A dry red wine cuvee (Grenache, Syrah), with dark purple-red garnet color; nose of smoke and green wood, with a hint of dark cherry, flavors of the same; medium plus tannins.

2017 Rose Les Frangins, Appellation Cotes du Rhone Controlee, Domaine des Gravennes (Suze la Rousse): A dry rose with very light salmon color; strawberry and green wood nose with strawberry, strawberry leaf, oak and slightly mineral flavors, medium tannins, and a slightly acidic finish.

 

2016 Vin Blanc, Café du Centre, Appellation Cotes du Rhone Controlee, Domaine Gris-des-Bauries (Taulignan/Bedoin): A dry white wine blend (primarily Clairette) made by the domaine above, and bottled for the eponymous cafe/restaurant, with medium gold color; a floral and spice nose, with nutmeg, vanilla, and fruity flavors, medium acidity, with an unexpected mildly tart finish.

 

2014 Viognier, Appellation Cotes du Rhone Protegee, Domaine du Jas (Suze la Rousse): A dry white wine with pale gold color; a mineral and sandalwood nose, with sandalwood, vanilla, smoke and slight white fruits flavors, medium finish.

 

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Sentier des Terroirs: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Sentier des Terroirs

Trail Type: Short to mid-distance circuit trail; well-maintained and widely varying surfaces from paved to very rough, marking on the trail very good in places, completely missing in others

Length:

Total – About 18 kilometers/11 miles

Southern/yellow circuit: 9.35 kilometers/5.8 miles.

Convenient to:

Montelimar or Nyons, France

Marking: Numbered wine bottles (some missing) in part, red or yellow arrows with a stylized vineyard area depicted in a wine glass, in other places

Signage for Red and Yellow Trail where Conjoined

(The featured photo on top shows signage for the Yellow trail only.)

Trail Description: A relatively easy, family-friendly and varied trail offering wine education (close to the village), garrigue and vineyard landscapes, overlooked by tall mountains to the east. The trail has two conjoined circuits, making it possible to adapt hiking plans, depending on available time or weather situations. (See the comment below about flooding.)

Trailhead:

St Pantaleon-Les-Vignes: By the townhall (with church-like tower); or Cave Vignerons, Route de Nyons 1

Parking:

St Pantaleon: just off traffic circle, or by the town hall (Mairie), D548 x D541, and by Chateau Urdy

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: The closest rail service is at Montelimar, with good connections plying the major French North-South artery of the Rhone.

Bus: Buses provided by the Auvergne-Rhone-Alps Region (Oura on the website) “Cars Region” service, frequently connect Saint Pantaleon, Rousset, and Taulignan, with Montelimar, (and the rest of France).

Suggested Stages:

The full trail (both northern (heading to Rousset les Vignes) and southern halves) can be done together, or separately.

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Southern circuit only – Clockwise)

Traffic circle on D 541/Rte. de Nyons – Montelimar, D548 -Grand Grange, right fork to Route des Juliannes; La Beaume, cross bridge over the Rieumau creek, Cross D541/Plan du Gre/Rte. de Nyons; Fontaine de Barral; Chapel; Cross the viaduct over Torrent de la Fosse; Chateau Urdy; Traffic circle with super-sized “ wine corks;” Cross D541 to return to the village

Representative Trail Photos:

Section of Trail in Woods

 

Section of Rough Trail Surface

 

Section of Trail

 

Restrooms:

In the village, by the church.

Attractions on or near Trail:

The Vignerons de Valleon winery offers tours and tastings to the public, are open liberal hours, and are very helpful and knowledgeable about the wines, as well as about the area and the trail.

Tasting along the Trail:

Chateau d’Urdy

Cave Vignerons de Valleon

Alternative Options:

Car: The Route de la Drome Provencale passes through Taulignan, St Pantaleon-Les-Vignes and Rousset-Les-Vignes, showcasing vineyards, quiet villages and beautiful old structures.

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.grignanvalreas-tourisme.com/votre-sejour/agenda/

Trail specific: While not much is available online (to help with advance planning), the following website has a map of the southern route http://balades26-07.blogspot.com/2017/01/st-pantaleon-les-vignes-nd-de-sante-par.html (a big “Merci!”); and a map of the northern route may be found online at https://www.valleon.fr/un-terroir-et-des-hommes/, and at the winery’s front office, and the townhall.

Comments:

Snow is rare in this area, but…

Heavy rain can occur, and will flood parts of this trail, especially the low ground at the base of the hill south of the hamlet of Barral, at the Torrent de la Fosse!

 

France, Hiking

The Charms of Chamaret

 

The Drome Provencal, set south of Valence in France’s Rhone River Valley, already had spring-like weather when I visited in mid-February. With several fairly easy mountain biking trails suitable for the whole family, I decided to try one that centered around the village of Chamaret.

Sadly though, my bike was not available that day, and not finding a rental (a downside to winter touring), I decided to hike the southern part of the trail, beginning and ending in the village center. I am glad I made that call, for two reasons. The first: my hybrid bike and I would not have done well on part of this trail, and second: a short hike gave me time to explore this charming village.

Chamaret from Grignan

Continue reading The Charms of Chamaret →

France, Hiking, Nutshell

De Tour en Grotte: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  De Tour en Grotte (southern half only)

Trail Type: Short distance circuit trail; well-maintained and almost exclusively hard-surfaced, either tarmac, earthen or rock surfaces, marking on the trail rather good throughout the southern half. (See comments below)

Length:

Total – 20 kilometers

My segment – @9 kilometers

Convenient to: Grignan, France

Marking: A white 2 on a blue background, accompanied by the VTT (mountain bike) symbol: a triangle (orange) with two same-colored circles.

De Tour en Grotte Signage

Continue reading De Tour en Grotte: Trail in a Nutshell →

France, Hiking

Blond or Brunette?

 

When I began this hike, I had little idea how delicious the Appellation Cote Rotie wines could be! I had not really considered the potential for difference between a Cote Blonde or Cote Brune wine, especially given the varietals allowed. Once again, I found that hiking this terrain, this “terroir,” opened my horizons in more ways than one.

Snapshot of Ampuis

Continue reading Blond or Brunette? →