Tag Archives: France,

France, Wines

Wine Notes:  Haut Rhin Grands Crus

 

What I Learned:

Vorbourg, Hatschbourg, Goldert, Eichberg, Pfersigberg, and Zinnkoepfle  are the special vineyard areas in the zone called the Champ de Fractures de Rouffach-Guebwiller, where millions of years ago, the land collapsed. This zone of the Alsace wine region is particularly known for its Grands Crus. The wines from Grands Crus are generally considered superior to non-Grand Cru wines because the terroir where they lie is considered particularly favorable for growing vines. Clos de St Landelin, Clos de St Imer lie within the Grand Cru Vorbourg and Goldert, respectively. The fact that these sub-sections of vineyards were enclosed indicates that grapes matured here especially well, and were tempting targets for thieves! Due to the particular nature of conditions here, certain grape varieties do very well in this zone. About 50 percent of the wines from these vineyards are Gewuerztraminer,  followed by Riesling and Pinot Gris.

The Clos de St Landelin is a monopole (owned by one owner, in this case the Mure family), and sadly, I didn’t taste any of their wines. But I did taste a range of Ernest Burn winery’s Clos St Imer/Grand Cru Goldert wines. Burn offers wines with low acidity. They achieve this by delaying picking as long as possible (without becoming a vendage tardive, or late harvest, wine), then keeping one year in stainless steel tanks, followed by two years in wood barrels (not barriques). Due to this process, most Burn wines are older when first available for public sale (or tasting). It was a unique and delicious tasting experience, especially for the Riesling and Pinot Gris wines!

 

What I Tasted:

2012 Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru Eichberg, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Domaine Gruss (Eguisheim): A dry white wine with a dark light gold color; a nose with some vanilla and spice; notes of citrus, peach, and toast; medium acidity, well-balanced overall.

2012 Pinot Gris, Grand Cru Eichberg, Leon Baur (Eguisheim): A dry white wine with medium gold color, scent of fresh grass, with hints of honey and a trace of vanilla and spice; mild acidity

2010 Gewuerztraminer, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn (Gueberschwihr): An off-dry white wine, with medium gold color; an explosion of roses on the nose, and with rich exotic fruits, (lychee, ripe pineapple), spices, to include vanilla, flavors; very mild acidity, with a medium length finish.

2009 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine with light-plus gold color; turpentine nose, with rich fruity red apple and pear flavors; very, very mild acidity.

2009 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, La Chapelle, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: A dry white wine with medium minus gold color; nose of spice, and slight turpentine, flavors of peach, apricots, vanilla and a hint of floral; mild acidity.

2009 Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine, light gold in color with a slight trace of pink; ripe, white stone fruits nose; ripe peach, ripe melon and honey flavors; low acidity.

2009 Pinot Gris, La Chapelle, Goldert, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: A dry white wine with dark gold color; exotic fruits nose, flavors of honey, ripe apricot, ripe honeydew melon, pineapple; mild acidity.

2007 Riesling, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine with gold color; medium-plus gold color; turpentine nose, with rich fruity flavors and a trace of minerality; very, very mild acidity.

2007 Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Imer, Appellation Alsace Grand Cru Goldert Controlee, Domaine Ernest Burn: An off-dry white wine, light pink-gold in color; ripe, white stone fruits nose; ripe peach, ripe melon and honey flavors; low acidity.

 

Biking, France, Nutshell

Paysage a Bicyclette: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Paysage a Bicyclette

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit biking trail; much of it paved and car-free, well maintained, fairly good signage throughout (but at least bring a map, if nothing else).

Length:

Total: 31 kilometers/ 19.5 miles

Convenient to: Colmar, Alsace, France

Marking:

White pointy-ends rectangular sign with dark letters: Paysage a Bicyclette in script writing

Paysage a Bicyclette Trail Signage

Trail Description: A slightly challenging trail through vines and villages in a relatively quiet section of the Alsatian wine region, offering plenty of opportunities to reconnect with nature, admire the wide expanses, and taste wine while exploring small towns and villages along the route!

Trailhead:

Official: Rouffach: Mairie (Town Hall), on Place de la Republique

Alternative: Eguisheim: Grande Rue

Parking:

Eguisheim: Grande Rue, large paved lot, reasonable fees

Rouffach: Place des Sports, large paved lot, with overflow parking nearby, free

Public Transportation Options:

Rail: SNCF regional trains (TER), regularly connect Rouffach (station less than one kilometer from the trail) with Colmar and Strasbourg to the north, and Mulhouse to the south

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points:

Rouffach: R du Marechal Joffre/D18Bis-R Claude Ignace Callinet, R. Louis Pasteur-R. des Vosges-Route de Westhalten; Cross Muehlweg, onto track named Saegmattenweg; Gundolsheim: D15/Route de Rouffach-R. du Nord-Schlittweg-Gundolsheimerweg; onto Holderhuerstleweg, over train tracks, hard right but continue on trail, Rouffach: cross D8, Heiligkreuzweg-Staaweg; cross tracks, then parallel them on Gaertleweg; Metzgermatten and Kiffmatten fields; woods, cross D83 highway; Hattstatt: D121/Route du Vin; Alte Staatstrasse, Herrenstr trail, Rte de Herrlisheim/D1bis; Eguisheim: D14/Grande Rue, R. du Muscat-R du Vin, unnamed trail to left after R. du Buhl; Obermorschwihr: Dagsbourg Hohlweg, R du Dagsbourg-R des Pres; fields and vineyards; Gueberschwihr: R du Nord, R Basse-Route de Pfaffenheim; Gaensbrunnweg trail, then first right; Pfaffenheim: R du Muscat, Grande Rue-Drotfeldweg-Kopfacherweg; Alte Strasse through vineyards-R. Louis Pasteur

Representative Trail Photos:

Typical paved trail section
Typical Unpaved Trail Section

Restrooms:

Rouffach: R. du 4eme Spahis Marocains (by the bus stop)

Eguisheim: by the paid parking lot (see parking above), and in the old center in Cr Unterlinden

Attractions on or near Trail:

Eguisheim:

The Little Train will take passengers through vineyards as well as the town

The Wolfberger Cave has a discovery room with some explanations and photos, in addition to a large boutique for lots of its wine and wine-related products.

Tasting along the Trail:

Wineries, mostly family-owned, in every village – you will be spoiled for choice. Do not hesitate to visit one (or several) between roughly 9-1200, and 14-1800 on most days (some including Sunday mornings during tourism season)!

Alternative Options:

Hiking:

Eguisheim: Vignoble et Chateaux, a short but steep in places trail that passes through a great variety of scenery and terrain, with great views. See the Nutshell here.

Soultzmatt or Westhalten: https://www.visorando.com/randonnee-promenade-dans-le-vignoble-de-la-vallee-/ thru vineyards, listed as medium difficulty (hills, not much shade)

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.visit.alsace/en/253001422-tourist-office-pays-deguisheim-et-de-rouffach-office-from-rouffach/

Trail (segment) specific: https://www.cirkwi.com/fr/circuit/536654-le-paysage-a-bicyclette

Comments:

A fantastic area for wines, history, and hiking and biking in nature.

France, Hiking

Ramblings in Rabastens

 

Rabastens, and the Gaillac wine region that it forms a part of, is an unexpected delight. My first time in this southwestern wine region, one of France’s oldest, left me charmed. Toulouse is the regional hub, fascinating in its own right, as is nearby Albi. Rabastens, though, in spite of its proximity to both, retains its quiet rural quality. Not that the town wasn’t hopping on a very crowded market day last June!  Local fruit and veg, as well as bottles or cases of local wines, from in the Rive Droite district of the Gaillac wine region, were on offer direct from vintners. That, of course, is why  I was there.

The Old Vine Yet Lives

The trail I rambled (hike is an overly energetic word for this easy, short itinerary), began on the outskirts of town, at the local wine cooperative. Fortunately, given the crowds at the market, I found plenty of parking options on that end of town. Like the cooperative, this trail focused on vintners and their wines: Amedee, being a former vintner. Shortly after parking, I (and Marco, my hiking buddy for this trip), were passing along vines, enjoying the song of the birds and the buzz of cicadas, brought out by the heat.

Vines in the Gaillac Wine Region

Making a turn uphill, we followed a grassy trail devoid of vines on one side. Instead, splashes of color from myriad wild flowers, all in full bloom that day, popped out against the grasses. The variety of flowers and their abundance were amazing. Focused on photographing the flowers, (and Marco, a hunter, on wildlife tracks) we had little notice of much else. It wasn’t until near the top of the hill that we turned to admire the rest of the scenery.

Hot Pink on a Hot Day

There, to the south, were snow-capped Pyrenees! They didn’t photograph well, due to haze. Haze likely caused by the multitude of rivers that pass between the trail in Rabastens and the mountains. Rabastens lies along the Tarn, which with the Hers and Ariege flow into the Garonne not far to the west, making this area a real watershed. Additionally, it is easy to see why grapes do well here: gentle ridges rise and fall from here to the mountains, and the south-facing slopes are great for vine-planting.

Snow-capped Mountains in Haze

Once on top, the trail turned almost 180 degrees, and headed downhill, through a little draw created by a break in the ridgeline. A stable, then finally an old farm house appeared. After a few more meters, a dovecote appeared. These famed dovecotes, some hundreds of years old and lovingly maintained, show an amazing breadth of style and architecture! Centuries ago, vintners used pigeon droppings to ameliorate the soil around the vines. We walked under a canopy of trees, enjoying the architecture and a respite from sun. In no time, we’d returned to the cooperative for a wine-tasting, and Rabastens, for a well-earned lunch!

 

 

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Gaillac

 

What I Learned

The Gaillac tradition of wine-making is one of the oldest in France. But well before that, there is documented evidence of the local population drinking wine imported from Greece, and even Asia Minor. Suffice it to say, wine produced here today has a lot of savoir-faire, or know-how, behind it !

The Appellation Gaillac territory lies east of Toulouse, and is subject to both Atlantic and Mediterranean climatic influences. Situated in the rolling hills between the Aveyron River, and both banks of the Tarn River, this fertile area has ideal conditions for vineyards. There are three main growth areas

-The Rive Gauche, known also as the Terrasses de la Rive Gauche, which indicates a generally flatter area

-The Rive Droite (around Gaillac, Lisle sur Tarn and Rabastens), known also, and appropriately so, as Coteaux de la Rive Droite, indicating an area of hills, where vines grow on the south-facing slopes

-The Plateau Cordais, north of the Rive Droit, in an area of higher elevation, which includes the impressive town of Cordes sur Ciel

The dry white wines received appellation status in 1938. Gaillac white wines include some unique varietals such as Loin de l’œil. It is rather perfumed, and is often blended with another unusual varietal Mauzac. Ondenc is yet another appellation varietal, and unusually, it is often harvested and bottled as a later harvest wine.

The red wines, however, only obtained appellation status in 1970.  The main red varietal is Braucol, with notes of raspberry and cassis. Duras and Prunelart, both of which were practically extinct by the end of the phylloxera crisis, are usually blended with Braucol, or the another main red varietal in this area, Syrah.

 

What I Tasted

2021 Loin de l’Oeil, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie (Saint Sulpice): A dry white wine with very pale, almost white gold color, with a citrus and tropical fruits nose, and citrus and mineral flavors; fairly well-balanced with medium plus acidity

2021 Le Perle, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie: A dry white cuvee with pale, white gold color; a peach and mineral nose; flavors of green apple, peach, and pineapple; a slight fizz, with mild acidity.

2021 Le Perle, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie: A dry rose cuvee with pale rose color; red berry nose and flavors, with hints of spice

2020  Loin de l’Oeil, Sans Culotte, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Vinovalie (Saint Sulpice): A dry white wine with very pale, almost white gold color; floral nose, with floral and white stone fruits flavors, well balanced with medium acidity, and no sulfites added!

2021 Cuvee, AOP Gaillac, Domaine Les Grezels (Gaillac); A dry white wine cuvee (Muscadelle (20%), Loin de l’œil (40%), and  Mauzac (40%)), with pale gold color; citrus nose, with flavors of citrus, and ripe pear; very mild acidity.

2021 Rose cuvee, Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) Gaillac, Chateau de Saurs (Lisle s/Tarn):  A dry, salmon pink cuvee of Duras and Syrah, red berry fruits, medium acidity and medium length finish.

2021 Les Cedres, Appellation d’Origine Protegee (AOP) Gaillac, Chateau Tauzies, (bottled by Vinovalie): A dry rose cuvee with pale rose color; bright red berries nose, slightly herbal notes, with flavors of the same.

France, Hiking, Nutshell

Les Pas d’Amédée le Vigneron: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Dans les Pas d’Amédée le Vigneron

Trail Type: Short-distance circuit; well-maintained with hard (paved or packed earth) surfaces; marking for this itinerary is pretty good, but not always present.

Length:

Total – 7 kilometers/4.3 miles

Convenient to: Toulouse, Albi, Montauban, or Gaillac, Occitanie, France

Marking:

Signs specific to the trail (see above and below), as well as the ubiquitous French yellow bar markings

Marking for the Trail

 

Trail Description: This mostly gentle walk through vineyards and fields in and around Rabastens, a town  in the Gaillac wine region, provided lovely views, and several opportunities to sample the wines.

Trailhead:

Official: Rabastens, Vinovalle, Ave de l’Hermitage

Mine : Rabastens, Rue de la Croix Blanche (where the tail leading to the circuit begins)

Parking:

Rabastens: on the shoulder along Avenue de l’Hermitage, and along wider sections of the Chemin de l’Hermitage,

Rabastens: near the school – Ave de la Croix Blanche, (usually full, but empty during school vacations)

Rabastens:  Rue des Abreuvoirs, a large central official parking lot, mostly closed during market days, and a kilometer from the trail

Public Transportation Options:

SNCF, the national train system, has a station in Rabastens connecting it with Toulouse and beyond

Suggested Stages:

Not applicable

Trail Itinerary-Reference Points: (Counterclockwise)

Rabastens: Cave, Ave de l’Hermitage, Chemin de l’Hermitage, R. des Ormes, R. des Clarisses, cross Rte de Saurs right to Chemin de la Tremege (Alternatively id’d: Ave de la Croix Blanche), path (La Dressiere) behind school back onto Chemin de la Tremege ; left onto path (250 m before the “t” insection) through vines, onto Las Bordes, stay right at y (350m past plant); sharp turn south/left, Fourtet: almost to Rte 2/Rte de Salvagnac, but just before it, turn left onto narrow Tremege Basse/Cote de la Tremege (by dumpsters); at school, retrace steps to Cave.

Representative Trail Photos:

Sample Section of Trail
Representative Trail Surface

Restrooms:

None observed

Attractions on or near Trail:

(See below)

Tasting along the Trail:

Vinovalle/Vignerons de Rabastens, a local cooperative

Domaine in Ventis, Les Fontaines de Cavalade, both are just off the trail and sell directly at local markets

Alternative Options:

Hiking: Vignes et Clochers, an eight kilometer long circuit trail, starting north of the center of Lisle-sur-Tarn (about five miles northeast of Rabastens), on D18/Camin de Tolze, Alternatively, Lisle-sur-Tarn also has the 11 kilometer Le Vignoble Lislois circuit trail, beginning right on the northern outskirts of the old town

Car: Circuit du Vignoble Gaillacois, Route des Vins de Gaillac, ask local travel offices for help mapping your route

Additional Information:

Regional: https://www.la-toscane-occitane.com/

Trail specific:  https://www.france-randos.com/randonnee/rabastens/tarn-81/dans-les-pas-damedee-le-vigneron

Comments:

A very easy walk in a quiet corner of rural France, albeit only 30 kilometers from Toulouse!

 

France, Hiking

Grand Grapes and Castles

 

Selestat, an important town for centuries throughout the Middle Ages, has numerous attractions for visitors, both viticultural and historical. The Velo Route du Vignoble d’Alsace (the Alsace Vineyard Bike Trail) first brought me here. (See the Nutshell). The trail’s northern half is somewhat hilly. So, by the time I got to the villages in the foothills just outside Selestat, between Dambach-la-Ville’s Grand Cru Frankstein vineyard and Kintzheim’s Grand Cru Praelatenberg vineyard, I was delighted with the flat stretch through vineyards overlooked by castle-topped mountains. I decided then to return to hike the area someday.

After years of remodeling, Selestat’s Bibliotheque Humaniste (Humanist Library) finally reopened, and I began researching local wine-themed trails. I first found the Vignoble de Selestat trail. (Online, the Circuit de Piemont and the Circuit du Vignoble refer to the same itinerary.) So, after visiting the library in the morning to see Merovingian and Carolingian manuscripts, I headed a mile away to the trailhead in Chatenois.

Continue reading Grand Grapes and Castles →

France, Wines

Wine Notes: Grand Cru Praelatenberg

 

What I Learned

Alsace is a fascinating place. From a watery world filled with tributaries to the tributaries of the Rhine River, to the foothills covered with vines, to the tree-covered mountains of the Vosges, all lie within less than 18 kilometers/10 miles of each other. The valley area, sheltered from Atlantic weather to the west, and continental weather to the east, has optimal conditions for growing cool weather grapes.

Selestat was at one time one of the most important towns in Alsace. So, not surprisingly, monks founded the Abbey of Ebermunster on the Ill, less than 10 kilometers/6 miles downriver. But both places are in the water-rich plains of Alsace, where grapes will not grow. The monks therefore acquired lands for vineyards in the hills behind Selestat, and one of these plots became known as the Praelatenberg, or Prelate’s Hill.

Continue reading Wine Notes: Grand Cru Praelatenberg →