Tag Archives: France,

On the Trotele

 

Just before winter solstice, I found myself in Alsace, not far from Strasbourg, wondering why I would hike on such a gray day. The short answer is that Strasbourg has one of the most impressive Christmas Markets in France, and Molsheim, near some of Alsace’s grand cru vineyards, is not far from it. So after an evening visiting the market, I headed for the hills to the west the next morning.

Strasbourg Christmas Market

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Wine Notes: Bas Rhin, Alsace

 

What I Learned

The Alsatian wine region is famous throughout France, and the world. It is a great place to try excellent French wines, at very reasonable prices. Politically, Alsace is divided into two districts, or departments. The Haut Rhin is the southern-most. Above it is the Bash Rhin, stretching north to the border with Germany. The Rhine river marks the eastern border of both, and the Vosges mountains lie on the western side of each.

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Trotele Circuit: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Circuit de Trotele (One of the “Circuits de Bacchus” local circuit trails)

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; varied surfaces, from paved to meadow grasses, well maintained, with the route itself specifically marked in most, but not all, places.

Length: Total: 13.8 kilometers/ 8.4 miles

Convenient to: Strasbourg, France

Marking: Hollow blue circle, in places; yellow lines elsewhere

Trotele Circuit Signage

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The Vineyards of Vacqueyras

 

Although side-by-side, Vacqueyras and Gigondas have more dissimilarities than just their wines. Gigondas is nestled within the lower folds of the Dentelles de Montmirail crests. Small, hidden, in a complex landscape, it exudes a sense of remoteness and secrecy. Vacqueyras lies on flatter land, in the shadow of the Dentelles, and is bigger. There is a sense of town, vice village, and although still partly behind old walls, has an open, friendly atmosphere.

Quiet Corner in Vacqueyras

 

The trail here was also a bit more friendly, user-friendly that is. So, I took my best friend along, one who hasn’t hiked in a while, but this trail is suitable for all fitness levels. We had a memorable morning hiking along a signposted trail, followed by some wine tasting, and then lunch. What could be better than that?

Us, and Our Shadows

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Wine Notes: Vacqueyras

 

What I Learned

Vacqueyras is a small town in Provence, France, with a big name in the wine world. Like its neighboring AOC Gigondas, the southern Rhone reds from Vacqueyras are big and powerful. However, there are some important differences between these two appellations.

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Trail in a Nutshell: Vignoble de Vacqueyras

 

Trail Name: Parcours du Vignoble de Vacqueyras

Trail Type: Short distance; surface is mostly paved, with some grassy stretches; fairly well maintained, and fairly well marked.

Length: 8 kilometers/5 miles

Convenient to: Orange or Carpentras, Vaucluse, France

Marking: Grape leaf cut-out on a square rust-brown sign; 17 panels

Trail Marker: Vignoble de Vacqueyras

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On Hallowed Ground

 

Hallowed sites exist in many forms throughout the world, and whether they are religious, ethnic or historic, all are sacred to its devotees. I recently visited such an area.  It is revered by those who prefer powerful, age-worthy, Rhone red wines; who worship them, sadly often from afar, because the prices can reach astounding levels. This is the story of a pilgrimage to Tain.

Tain, or Tain l’Hermitage, as the town has become officially known, contains within its boundaries the appellation known as Hermitage, one of France’s most prestigious wine appellations. More like a village than a small town, it has a history that predates even the Romans. It’s reputation as a wine center is even more august, attracting pilgrims from every corner of the world.

Tain l’Ermitage and its Vineyards

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