Like any fine Burgundian wine, Savigny should be savored. Not just the wine either: the sights and sounds of its sites merit time and attention as well.
Savigny-les-Beaune, as its full name indicates, is located near Beaune, the main hub of the Cote de Beaune wine district. Like Beaune, this small town has its own appellation, covering both red (Pinot Noir) and white (Chardonnay) wines. It is in a beautiful setting. The village essentially follows along a narrow river valley, backed by high hills, and surrounded by forests and vineyards. While most visitors search for the wine, I wanted to explore the town’s vineyards and forests, as well as savor the quaint corners of the historical center.
The first sensation to hit me, aside from the bucolic scenery, was the soft scent of pine. After passing through the outskirts of town, the trail passes through a wooded area made up of many pine trees. It was an aromatic climb uphill, as I breathed deeply of the forest scents. Pines do well in poorer soils, as do vines, which appeared as soon as I crested the hill.
Chunks of limestone dotted the reddish soil surrounding the vines. Limestone is a prominent feature in the soil here. So much so that the rocks pulled from the soil are often piled together. Called “murgers,” these piles represent the backbreaking work of the vintners. Along much of this section of the trail, murgers would appear, the new serving as breaks between vines, and the old slyly hiding under a thick growth of vegetation in thickets and copses.
Following the passage through vineyards, a long descent through woodland ensued. The trail was rougher, but evidently well used. The shady interlude was greatly appreciated. It terminated in a “combe” a narrow valley not defined by a river. There are many combes in Burgundy, and they are well marked on maps.
Upon leaving the combe, the trail headed uphill through more vineyards. In fact, from the top of the climb, the amazing sight of acres and acres of vineyards spread out below me, south and east, all the way to Beaune. (See the feature photo at the top.) The Cotes de Beaune is no less impressive than the Cotes de Nuits when it comes to the sheer numbers of vines planted on the famous slopes of the Cote d’Or. The trail headed downhill. It twisted and turned as it threaded its way through the woods, carefully inscribed between moss-covered limestone walls. Treasures as yet unseen lay behind these walls.
What lies behind the walls is evident only upon reaching the wide agricultural road at mid-slope. I turned around to discover that on this partially wooded slope lies the vast majority of the town’s Premier Cru: Aux Serpentieres, Petits Godeaux, Aux Gravains. Further down the slope, I could see many lieux-dit, named parcels, like the Aux Grands Liards parcel. The grapes here made up the village appellation wines. Someone thoughtfully stationed a picnic table overlooking the town’s glorious vineyards. But I pressed on…
Soon after that, I came back into town. Homes and caves all constructed in limestone line the narrow lanes, ghostly white and just as quiet in the afternoon sun. The sound of a small river announced the Rhoin. An old washhouse, lined the northern bank. Every town in Burgundy seems to have one, and this one is was located just outside the castle gates.
The Chateau de Savigny is many things. A winery, an historical site, a museum site with eclectic collections, including, but not limited to, displays on wine-making, motorcycles, old cars, and old fighter jets. Some of the last are visible from the trail, as it circles around the south side of town, back to the official start. Not something ordinarily seen on a vineyard trail! This final leg comes with another ascent, more vineyards, a delightful section of forest, and descent followed by a short meander along the Rhoin, providing a musical interlude.
Many people use Beaune as a staging point for visits to the nearby wine villages. But however good her wineries may be, Savigny, like so many other villages of the Cote de Beaune, must be savored with more than just a cursory tour of its wineries.
