Tag Archives: Burgundy,

France, Hiking

A Godly Wine

 

Mercurey, named after the Roman God Mercury, god of commerce trade and travelers, was a fortuitous discovery for this traveler of wine country. Both the village and the eponymous appellation lie in the Cote Chalonnaise sub-region of the Burgundy wine region. The village made its entry into history as a way-stop on the Roman trade route leading to Autun from Chalon-sur-Saone, graced by a small temple to the god of trade. Presumably, this route proceeded along the same straight trajectory as the modern road through the center of town, alongside a steam. But the village’s real piece of luck was to be set in natural amphitheater. While the road follows the stream in the bottom land, vines cover the slopes all around.

Grande Rue, Mercurey

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France, Wines

Wine Notes: Mercurey

 

What I Learned

Mercurey is a small appellation in the Cote Chalonnaise wine sub-region of Burgundy. This appellation has about 800 hectares under vine, spread between the villages of Saint Martin sous Montaigu, and Mercurey, with its hamlets of Touches, Chamirey and Etroyes. A number of Premier Cru are found throughout this area. Viewing the area, one is struck by the number of clos – enclosed vineyards.

About 85 percent of total harvest comes from its famed Pinot Noir grapes, which do exceptionally well in its soils. A parcel entitled Les Ruelles is known in particular for its clay soil, almost blood red in color due to its high iron content, giving wines from this parcel distinct flavors. Total red wine production in this AOC is about 3.3 million bottles every year.

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France, Nutshell

Mercurey: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name:  Mercurey; AKA: Circuit des Vignes (Circuit of the Vignes), Petite Boucle de Mercurey (Small Circuit of Mercurey), and M1 (on signs)

Trail Type: Short distance circuit through various landscapes, but half of it vineyards; fairly well-maintained with a variety of surfaces, including some naturally rough (rock) surfaces in places; some climbing; marking on the trail very good overall.

Length:

Total – 7.75 kilometers/4.8 miles

Convenient to: Chalon sur Saone, or Macon,  France

Marking: Yellow lines; as well as posts indicating positional and directional references

MI Signage

 

Location and Directions Post

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France, Hiking

A Tale of Two Pouillys II

 

One of my favorite white wines is Pouilly-Fuisse, one of France’s well-known appellations. It lies in Burgundy, not too far south from the famous Cote d’Or with its own many fine appellations. Early in my wine-drinking career, I often confused that wine name with Pouilly-Fume. Therefore, I decided to get a closer look, since visually, there would inevitably be cues to keep the two villages, and hence the two wines, apart in my mind.

The Pouilly-Fuisse hike I completed was just that – a walk between and around the tiny villages of Pouilly and Fuisse. The trail name said it all: Entre Pouilly et Fuisse (Between Pouilly and Fuisse), and it provided a great opportunity to see both villages up close.

Fuisse

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France, Wines

Wine Notes: Pouilly-Fuisse

 

What I Learned:

The Appellation Pouilly-Fuisse lies in the southern part of Burgundy’s Maconnais district, not too far from Lyon. It covers a small area: only Chaintre, Vergisson, Fuisse, Pouilly and Solutre, (known collectively as Solutre-Pouilly), totaling about 755 hectares (less than 1900 acres). This area was once under a vast sea, as is witnessed by the high concentration of limestone, made of trillions of trillions of tiny shells from ancient mollusks. Dropping down to the bottom of the sea, once the sea retreated, the shell mass solidified into calcareous limestone. This type of limestone can impart a fair degree of minerality to the wine.

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France, Hiking, Nutshell

Entre Pouilly et Fuisse: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Fuisse (FU), Subtitled: Entre Pouilly et Fuisse

Trail Type: Short distance circuit; partly paved, partly hard-packed path, some rocky sections, well maintained, but the route itself is fairly well-marked.

Length: 8 kilometers/5 miles

Convenient to: Macon or Lyon, France

Marking: Posts with yellow signs indicating location, directions and distances; yellow (usually painted bars) on trail route will indicate that you are still on a trail, and your next change of direction (left or right)

Trail Marker Indicating Location, Direction and Distances

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France, Hiking

Cote de Beaune – Up Close

 

I confess – I love this town unconditionally. I have been to Beaune at least five times, and always find something new to learn. Most recently, I came across a series of hiking circuits designed to explore the immediate surroundings of Beaune, namely, its famed vineyards and wines. Reason number 123,456,789 to return.

Conveniently starting at a park at the edge of town (easily accessible from hotels in the historic part of town), I began my hike – after sitting on a bench to savor the most delicious, buttery, almond croissant ever. Sharing the trail for a bit with runners, bikers soon joined in as the trail followed part of the Veloroute Voie des Vignes through the lower (and flatter) reaches of Beaune’s vineyards. They headed south, as I began the modest climb into the vine-covered hills above Beaune. I was not alone though. Not surprisingly many people were in the vineyards tending the vines in mid-April.

Colorful Trees in Spring
Colorful Trees in Spring

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France, Wines

Wine Notes: Burgundy’s Beaune

 

What I Learned:

Beaune, situated at the northern end of the Cote de Beaune, is a capital city. Not in any political sense, but it certainly reigns supreme as the capital city of Burgundy wines. Within the district of Beaune’s 410 hectares (slightly over a thousand acres) of vines there are 42 Premier Cru vineyards. The majority of wines bearing the Beaune appellation are Pinot Noir.

During late medieval times, especially under the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, its wine enjoyed a particularly great reputation in the rest of France and the Low Countries. Over the years, other villages in the Cote de Beaune region have come to enjoy greater reputations for their wines perhaps, but Beaune continues to attract wine-lovers from around the world.

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France, Hiking, Nutshell

Vineyards of Beaune: Trail in a Nutshell

 

Trail Name: Vignoble de Beaune Circuit Series, “Tout le Coteau” Circuit

Trail Type: Mid-distance circuit; varied surfaces to include paved, dirt, stone, and grass, mostly well maintained. Note that the route itself is not marked with signs specific to this particular route, rather signposts indicate the way to the next itinerary point (identified below) this route shares with others.

Length: total: 12 kilometers/ 7.5 miles

Convenient to: Beaune, Burgundy, France

Marking: None specific to this particular circuit. (See above.) Rectangular yellow signs point to the next location on the trail itinerary, and a green band on top of the post indicates current location.

Typical Signpost
Typical Signpost

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