Like last month, the pandemic has left me without many cycling options for 2021. Therefore, I would like to take the time this month to note some of my favorite cycling itineraries passing through vineyard areas in Europe, in the hopes that someday soon, we can all get out there again to enjoy outdoor and wine tasting adventures with friends!
- The Place: Germany (Baden) and France (Alsace)
No boundaries! See great wine producing districts on both sides of the Rhine.
The Activity: Cycling a 235-kilometer-long circuit, the Romanik und Wein/Style Roman et Vin
Why this one: This cycling itinerary offers great diversity: From Black Forest Mountains to the Vosges Mountains, through bucolic fields, woods, and vineyards of course, through hamlets, picturesque villages and the city of Strasbourg, passing from easy, to moderate, to more challenging cycling segments. Cyclists will discover quiet, charming, unspoiled locations in which to take a break, and enjoy the atmosphere. Then comes Strasbourg, with its almost overwhelming sights and opportunities for food, wine, cultural events and people-watching from numerous cafes. Finally, while there is some street riding (although very little of it through Strasbourg as this itinerary passes through the city’s extensive pedestrian zones), much of this itinerary is vehicle-free, using agricultural access lanes, bike paths and even canal tow paths, repurposed and maintained (!) for bicycles.
Caveats: I did not cycle the segment between Wasselonne and Hagenau because this area has no vineyards and it had the most street-riding along the whole itinerary. Therefore, I cannot address any issues there. Most cyclists would require at least three days to complete this circuit, cycling at least 78 kilometers/48 miles a day.
Winning Wine Discovery: Two very different wine cultures and both are delicious!
From East to West:
- The Place: Switzerland, the Valais Canton
The Activity: Cycling the 82-kilometer-long Chemin du Vignoble trail from Martigny to Leuk
Why this One: The Alpine scenery is spectacular, no doubt about it. The mountainsides rise dramatically all around, the blue-green Rhone River pours through the valley between them, and cyclists pedal along, enjoying the beauty of it all.
Caveats: This route is listed as difficult, and two days are suggested to complete it. (Sion is the suggested intermediary point.) However, if you reverse the itinerary (from Leuk to Martigny), it is much easier, as it follows the river valley downhill, vice uphill. Mind, there will still be some inclines, but except for the long uphill segment between St Leonard and Grimisuat, they were not show stoppers.
Winning Wine Discovery: Arvine, also known as Petit Arvine, is a white grape varietal indigenous to the Valais region, and very rarely found elsewhere. It is nicely crisp, with unique mineral and citrus flavors. All combined to form a memorable palate of tangy, salty, and slightly sweet (due to ripe, white stone fruit flavors), making a uniquely delicious wine.
- The Place: Italy, Bozen/Bolzano
The Activity: Cycling the Weinradroute Nord/Itinerario Nord/Vino e Bici circuit
Why this One: Set in the beautiful Dolomites in the well-regarded Suedtirol/Alto Adige wine region of northern Italy, this district is much less frequented by tourists than many other regions of Italy. But that is not to say it is not visited. It is a popular spot for vacationing Germans and Austrians who take full advantage of the area’s great hiking and biking trails, and the good and plentiful lodging opportunities. In fact, this itinerary is just one of three interconnected (via the Etsch/Adige bike trail) wine-themed cycling circuits. Thus, while the German names might confuse those not familiar with the rich cultural history of this area, relax – it is still Italy after all – enjoy the great weather of this sunny side of the Alps and take the time to cycle all three!
Caveats: There are some segments of street cycling along narrow roads, with little or no shoulders. Bring a good map or navigation device, as the trail markings were not always where they needed to be.
Winning Wine Discovery: Lagrein is a red grape varietal grown both in the Suedtirol and the neighboring Trentino region. It vinifies as a red wine that produces powerful red berry aromas and flavors.
Finally, the Sentiero Valtellina gets an honorable mention here. The trail itself is marvelously laid out along the river valley floor, with views of vertiginous mountainsides, covered with vineyards on the lower stretches, and followed by forests and snow-capped peaks. But most impressive is the fact that five communities work together to keep this trail in great shape, and unusually for Italy, much of this trail’s itinerary is on dedicated bike path!
